Panhard correction bracket or bar to fix bumpsteer with mild lift?

[Snowden]

Man if ANY of you are near [MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION] to take him up on his offer count yourself lucky. He welded his on and good grief that was one clean set of welds. My only regret with my set was that my welder did a sheety job frankly speaking. They are on fine but the welds look meh...

 

[Trojan4x4]

I'm not sure if it was pointed out, but from your rear align spec you can see the the axle is twisted. Would love to see align spec after the fix!!

 

[jkeith.w]

I'm not sure if it was pointed out, but from your rear align spec you can see the the axle is twisted. Would love to see align spec after the fix!!

true - that would cause 'crabbing' - but not a bump-steer/swaying issue.

looks like the OP should examine the bushings in the rear links also.

(good eye, [MENTION=156518]Trojan4x4[/MENTION])

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

I'm not sure if it was pointed out, but from your rear align spec you can see the the axle is twisted. Would love to see align spec after the fix!! [emoji1303]

Crap, I’ve seen beatup pickup trucks like that on the highway and always laugh at them. I never knew it was called crabbing...now I’m probably the one getting laughed at. In all seriousness though I think I would have noticed if that was happening, maybe it is to a minor degree. You think it’s just a result of the panhard rather than a bent frame or something?

Which pic is of the rear alignment, I’m kind of a noob in that respect so I honestly didn’t know the difference between the pics. I know nothing in the rear can be aligned, but you think the alignment shop can do anything for the rear specs?

***edit - just realized the first alignment pic (5/18/17) has front and rear. That was done before I put any lift on, so if that’s what you’re referring to then it must be from some other issue, maybe worn out bushings in the rear. I’ve checked the area out and didn’t see anything that looked obviously broken or bent. ***

[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] I do plan to go ahead and replace whatever rear bushings etc. are there. They don’t seem to get as much attention as the front components on this forum, but it makes sense that they’d be worn too.


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[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION], You did the 3rd Gen community a service with the PCK!! Congrat's.


With how it works and versatility covering different lift heights I see the Adj Bar going the way of the dinosaurs in all but the extreme apps., Ay.

 

[KSWAY]

I just had my PCK welded. Just on the drive home from the shop I can tell it made a huge difference on the way the rear handles going over bumps.

 

[Mzs14]

Anyone had their PCK welded on in the Denver area?

I called Slee Offroad and they said they wouldn't do it.

 

[infamousRNR]

The adjustable pan hard bar helps to center your axle. The drop/lift weld on kit from eimkeith helps to get your panhard Parralel to the ground.

BOTH of them are the best of both worlds so you can get your panhard bar more parallel to the ground & have the adjustable bar do the rest of the fine tuning to get the axle centered.

 

[theesotericone]

The adjustable pan hard bar helps to center your axle. The drop/lift weld on kit from eimkeith helps to get your panhard Parralel to the ground.

BOTH of them are the best of both worlds so you can get your panhard bar more parallel to the ground & have the adjustable bar do the rest of the fine tuning to get the axle centered.

By using the PCK you return the panhard bar to factory(or very, very, very close) geometry. Doing that re-centers your axle. With the PCK there is zero need for an adjustable panhard. I've got 4" of lift in the rear with the PCK and stock bar. It's horizontal and my axle is centered. If you have 5" or more then the adjustable bar would be useful because [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] designed the PCK to work with 2-4.5" of lift. For most people only the PCK is needed.

 

[infantry503]

I got mine in the mail today from [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]

 

[Scramble]

Thanks for the replies.

Feels like the rear scoots to the side when I hit a bump while going around a bend in the highway - scares the crap outta my girlfriend if she’s driving, luckily it’s usually me.

I’ve had it aligned several times in the past year. Once after replacing all bushings etc in front end, the other after putting the lift on.

I got the lifetime alignment at firestone and honestly I don’t even know if they’re doing a good job. They argued that they couldn’t align it if it was lifted, I told them to just set it to factory specs. I don’t know the camber offhand but can dig out the sheet tomorrow.

I do know that they got everything in spec. It seems to track well on the highway.

My UCA are stock, 99 tall coils in front with 265-75 tires so I figured I’d be okay staying stock on the UCA.




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906's are only an inch taller than 99's so i wouldn't think the panhard would need any adjustment. I bet you have preload in your rear Upper & Lower control arm bushings. I would loosen all 4 bolts with the tires on the ground (at ride height). This should center the bushings again. Then torque them back up. Bump steer should be gone then.

 

[infamousRNR]

With the PCK there is zero need for an adjustable panhard.

i don't exactly agree with this statement 100%...

unless you measure, everyones springs and ride heights in the rear may differ slightly. I have LC 9 wraps so this kit isn't the "perfect fit" but yes i agree it brings back close to stock but not exactly every time....

with this said, unless you measure and both sides are the exact same distance then the adjustable pan hard bar can help to FINE TUNE the axle being pulled to one side or the other.

so with my original statement, both could be beneficial. how much? probably negligible but if you want ABSOLUTELY PERFECT then b0th is the way to go.

otherwise i drove with an axle pulled to one side for years and ultimately i survived and so did the truck

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

906's are only an inch taller than 99's so i wouldn't think the panhard would need any adjustment. I bet you have preload in your rear Upper & Lower control arm bushings. I would loosen all 4 bolts with the tires on the ground (at ride height). This should center the bushings again. Then torque them back up. Bump steer should be gone then.

Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll try to give it shot before I get it aligned and take it for a drive so I can hopefully isolate any fix to this vs. alignment vs. PCK once I get it installed


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[Milo Sporeman]

I have similar setup. 906’s with Toytech’s in the front. My panhard looks like yours. My drivers side front was 2 “ lower than the right side. I adjusted that out with the adjustable shock. The left rear is still an inch low. Would the PCK help/fix the left side droop?

 

[marcus clarkus]

906's are only an inch taller than 99's so i wouldn't think the panhard would need any adjustment. I bet you have preload in your rear Upper & Lower control arm bushings. I would loosen all 4 bolts with the tires on the ground (at ride height). This should center the bushings again. Then torque them back up. Bump steer should be gone then.

Check out my post on page 1 http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/249666-panhard-correction-bracket-bar-fix-bumpsteer-mild-lift.html#post2892351

I'm running 906s and the bar definitely isn't level. I'm guessing the bar isn't level with the 99 tall springs either, but Toyota felt it was good enough. I might be wrong though.

 

[GSTMike]

I think if you have a mild lift (2"-4") from a pure cost stand point anyone not considering such a small price part as the PCK to keep geometry in check should be considered crazy! I personally found it to be very worthwhile for the 30 minutes it took to install/weld and certainly helped with the feeling under hard freeway bumps and such at speed.

 

[96RedRunner]

i don't exactly agree with this statement 100%...
so with my original statement, both could be beneficial. how much? probably negligible but if you want ABSOLUTELY PERFECT then b0th is the way to go.

Both beneficial; I have both on a 96 LC 8 wrap using bottom PCK hole bar level, OE bar on 01 890's bottom PCK hole slightly low on frame side, both axles centered <1/6th". The bar length between the two is negligible, can swap between the two with both looking good on alignment rack. If I hadn't already had the Adj bar I would of wasted money buying it, just my case though.
One detail I payed attention to was centering the PCK holes with the OE holes on the vertical with a digital protractor. The PCK was true, not so on the truck mounts the contours had gaps at places when mating the two.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

906's are only an inch taller than 99's so i wouldn't think the panhard would need any adjustment. I bet you have preload in your rear Upper & Lower control arm bushings. I would loosen all 4 bolts with the tires on the ground (at ride height). This should center the bushings again. Then torque them back up. Bump steer should be gone then.

I loosened all bolts on upper and lower rear control arms, then retorqued. Haven’t driven on the highway yet to see how it affects the bump steer I’m perceiving. Also, it could be a placebo affect but the back end does feel a little less “wound up” if that makes sense.




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[JohnOfTheJungle]

I have not put the PCK on yet, but I did get another alignment done today.

I had to argue with the tech and manager at the front desk of Firestone to get them to check the caster. They all insisted that they could not check caster and that they would not adjust it because there is no spec for it in their computer and they would not create an “unsafe condition”.

Finally I got them to do it by showing them another post from this forum from a firestone in boulder that had done someone else’s caster.

Here’s my before:

Not in spec, but at least above 1 and they’re close to each other.

Also rear axle still shows twisted (after loosening and retorqueing control arm bolts), will post after I do PCK and get it aligned again.

Here is the after:

Got the pass side much better, but driver side got worse. Didn’t get to drive it much tonight but it seemed to track fine. I know it’s recommended to keep them within .5 deg of each other.

Will I be okay/it shouldn’t cause any excessive tire wear or anything if I keep these settings for a few weeks until I put on the PCK and new front bumper?


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