Passenger Window goes down only when
- Thread starter mathgirl
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IBallEngineer
New member
Can you clarify this? The passenger front window is the window with the failure right?
And it only goes "down" when the switch on both front doors is applied?
There is no relay, separate from the motors. This is a unique problem, we can trouble shoot it if you have a test light or multimeter and are willing to invest a little time!
:couch2:
Yes, passenger front Power window with AUTO feature will not go down with either the drivers side switch or the passenger switch, however, when you engage BOTH at the same time, it works! CraZy, right?
I am willing to get some supplies and test...I'm the original owner and love my truck!
I am willing to get some supplies and test...I'm the original owner and love my truck!
IBallEngineer
New member
OK, if you can get a test light, and a plastic tool for prying up the switch panel, we can do our first test. Again to clarify, are you having to depress the switches all the way to Auto, or just depress both switches? If you don't mind I'd like to bring this to the attention of [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] in case he's seen this before. He's the 4runner electrical genius, I'm just an average genius! :yo:
:snacker:
TheDurk
Elite Member
I'm watching. 1. You are too modest (or too generous), and 2. are doing just fine. I've never seen this one before. N.B. to OP: Pry up on the FRONT of the switch panels. You will break it if you pry on the back. Mine come up with just fingers, but they're always tighter the first time...
I'd start by confirming 12V+ key on at T7 and ground at T12 of RH window switch. I suspect one is missing. If not, my guess is a switch defect. But let's troubleshoot!
Useful info:
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IBallEngineer
New member
If you are ready, we can get started!
IBallEngineer
New member
If it helps you print them, cant hurt. I want to see what happens when you depress ONLY the passenger side switch. With the switch still connected, and depressed to go down, test light on Terminal 1, does the test light turn on. Be sure you have a good ground on the other end of the TL.
IBallEngineer
New member
Clean bare metal, like the door striker, where the latch holds on to when the door is closed.
IBallEngineer
New member
Touch one end to the negative battery post, and the other to the positive post, it should light.
IBallEngineer
New member
Key on for these tests, engine can be running, but not necessary.
Metal for ground(clamp) side of test light. Bare metal not painted.
one on each side of battery terminals to test it.
Metal for ground(clamp) side of test light. Bare metal not painted.
one on each side of battery terminals to test it.
oh man, maybe this is too much for lil ol me!
This test light looks like a Christmas tree light bulb, its tiny!
I just watched a youtube video and the guy had a much larger test light. I may need to give up...
does the car need to be on?
don't you think its weird that you if you press both buttons, the window works?
Thanks for your time and expertise!!
This test light looks like a Christmas tree light bulb, its tiny!
I just watched a youtube video and the guy had a much larger test light. I may need to give up...
does the car need to be on?
don't you think its weird that you if you press both buttons, the window works?
Thanks for your time and expertise!!
IBallEngineer
New member
It's not too much, but back and forth in a forum makes for slow communication. If you think you want to solve it yourself, or with the help of a friend. I'd be willing to set up a better communication like FB messaging or something. Send me a PM if you are interested.
Yes it's weird, but we CAN solve it.
Yes it's weird, but we CAN solve it.
TheDurk
Elite Member
IBall is doing a great job here. It's not that weird, as the motor needs 2 connections, a 12V+ and a ground. If the normal button push only provides one, it's not shocking (tee-hee) that pushing the other can complete the circuit. The drivers button and passengers button get their power from two different places. We just need to chase down the fault. Test lights can be very small, no problem, as long as they are for 12V and you can clearly see it's on when you test on the battery. Door strike is one ground I use a lot, too.
Yes, key needs to be on so that windows are active. You can do this if you are patient and follow directions...even if you are a girl! (trying to piss you off and motivate you.)
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