Performing the "Big 3" Wiring Ugrade on a 3rd Gen T4R - A How To

smkd13 said:
Hey BFAD, if your looking at a possible alternator upgrade you Gould look at the 200A supra alternators. About 150 to 200 bucks. My buddy has one in his Tacoma and the thing never has power issues. Just an idea bud and there is very little modification to get it to fit
Click to expand...

Do you have a link or more info on this? I didn't know the Supra alt was a fit.
 
BFAD, Durk, Nelson, LC,

You guys guys are always on the money. I'm glad you clarified for Doc2012 because I was wondering about doing a full replacement or just adding the addition wires except for #5 batt to chassis. It is clear that leaving the stock wiring mostly in place will be best for my needs.

Yes I definitely will post pictures. I will also be installing an additional fuse box for my electronics. Right now the wiring is a nightmare.

The only thing I'm missing is the breaker and plastic tubing. NAPA here I come.
 
Excellent write-up as usual BFAD. This is something I definitely want to do in the future.

I only wonder how much of your performance upgrade was due to the new battery, and how much was due to the wiring upgrade?
 
smkd13 said:
Hey BFAD, if your looking at a possible alternator upgrade you Gould look at the 200A supra alternators. About 150 to 200 bucks. My buddy has one in his Tacoma and the thing never has power issues. Just an idea bud and there is very little modification to get it to fit
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip/idea. That's about the same cost as the CS144 upgrade, so I'll definitely check into those.

BrianSD_42 said:
I'm glad you clarified for Doc2012 because I was wondering about doing a full replacement or just adding the addition wires except for #5 batt to chassis. It is clear that leaving the stock wiring mostly in place will be best for my needs.

Yes I definitely will post pictures. I will also be installing an additional fuse box for my electronics. Right now the wiring is a nightmare.

The only thing I'm missing is the breaker and plastic tubing. NAPA here I come.
Click to expand...

No matter how much detail I put into a write-up I still manage to leave a little something out. Good to hear that got you guys sorted out. I think that leaving the stock stuff in place (except #5) is really just the safest/efficient way to do it unless you have a real reason to replace it all.

If you have a Harbor Freight near you, go buy the plastic tubing there... they sell it at about 25% of the cost that everyone else does and it's the same stuff. I make sure to keep stock on hand for all my wiring projects. I'll be looking forward to your pics.

Bandit Runner said:
Excellent write-up as usual BFAD. This is something I definitely want to do in the future.

I only wonder how much of your performance upgrade was due to the new battery, and how much was due to the wiring upgrade?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback, Bandit! I was asked the same question by Brian when I originally posted this in my build thread, so I did a cut/paste/update on my reply below:

The vehicle's electrical system is like a water system for a house that is supplied by a well.

The alternator = your well pump, it is the source

The battery = your pressure tank, it stores the water and maintains pressure for a constant flow, provides a reserve for large, immediate demands.

The wiring = your pipes... the bigger the pipes, the more flow, up to the capacity of the pump.

So basically, I improved 2 of the 3. The reason I didn't do the alternator is because I don't have a large CONSTANT drains... only large TEMPORARY drains (i.e. winch, IPF's). When I hit the switch on the winch, using the water analogy, it's like trying to fill as swimming pool (the winch can draw up to 400A)... and now I've got a MUCH better/bigger pressure tank and a fire hose, rather than a garden hose, to try and meet that demand.

The only problem I may run into is that if I draw down the battery too much, the alternator may have a hard time re-charging it quickly and/or keeping up with the winch on it's own. Considering the amount of winching I plan on doing I don't think I'll run into that problem, but if I do, the CS-144 is only a $150 upgrade, and they actually sell an adapter harness for the upgrade so you don't have to hack up your stock alternator wiring harness (Link to adapter harness > Part # W1232 Alternator Wiring Harness Adapter. converts CS130 or CS144 4 pin Plug to Toyotal Oval Style Alternator Plug).

As far as the difference goes, I'd say 90% is the battery, and 10% is the new cables.
 
Since none of the local auto parts stores seem to sell a decent 100-120 AMP circuit breaker for around $30, I decided to order one on Amazon.

While I cringed at the $45 spent, I really want to protect against any possible engine fires and this definitely seems like a good way. It should arrive by this Saturday, just in time for my upgrade :party:

I also bought Les Mis for $23 (which I haven't seen yet) but that is way off topic.


Purchased (pic below)
BLUE SEA 7188 120 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER SURFACE MT 285 SERIES


:fro:
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2013-04-12 at 12.58.18 AM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2013-04-12 at 12.58.18 AM.jpg
    45.4 KB · Views: 2,962
PaperweightNate said:
This is the solder i used on my wire connections. I made the wires before thjis forum was started and mentioned different kinds of solder wire and I found this on in my garage and used it.. Do I need to redo the wires with different solder before installing them?

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/6a/6a880608-6acd-4257-b771-b2e1ae1f6454.pdf
Click to expand...

No, you don't have to redo it, but keep it in mind in case the things you soldered in stop working, you might have a failed solder joint.
 
PaperweightNate said:
This is the solder i used on my wire connections. I made the wires before thjis forum was started and mentioned different kinds of solder wire and I found this on in my garage and used it.. Do I need to redo the wires with different solder before installing them?

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/6a/6a880608-6acd-4257-b771-b2e1ae1f6454.pdf
Click to expand...

You should e good with that honestly. Btw something to keep in mind when soldering. Both pieces I metal should be heated wen soldering. Best connection will be achieved this way as well. When in doubt just us 60/40. You will be fine with that.
 
Nelsonmd said:
No, you don't have to redo it, but keep it in mind in case the things you soldered in stop working, you might have a failed solder joint.
Click to expand...

It is perfectly good solder, and probably stronger/harder than the stuff with lead it in it. The lead is preferred on electric work because it has a lower melting point, so there is less possibility of damage to surrounding parts when it is used. If that didn't happen, no need to worry about no lead. The other issue is that is has no flux core (and I assume you didn't use any paste flux either) so it may not have been able to flow into all the nooks and crannies among the wire strands. I agree with Matt (NelsonMD), it is not worth redoing and I bet you are probably fine. Since you are just filling a (tiny) cup with these crimp connectors, gravity is on your side and gravity is a powerful friend. Flux will make solder defy gravity (frequently required in the plumbing repairs I have done--it still amazes me that it works to sweat copper pipe joints upside down.)
 
Last edited:
Did my Big 3 today. Went and bought a 150A breaker from Auto Zone for $30. My + to alt wire I wrapped in red fire protect stuff.. It runs back to the firewall where the breaker sits out of the way.. back in between some metal hoses and down to the Alt. The other two are wrapped in black. I secured my silver winch boxy thing by the battery too.. and added a positive terminal extension. Now with 3 wires just for my positive, the new ones are all 0/1 gauge (stick with 4 gauge - these are way too big and a huge PITA to move around) a winch line, stereo line and off road light wire, my battery looks like the central hub from hell. Anyways, I'm just winging it here.. Also put in a new PCV Valve, installed new headlights (one SS Ultra's died - never again) and Seafoamd the vacuum lines and gas tank. Anyways give me some feed back if you'd like. I could use all the help I can get. Thanks, Nate
 

Attachments

  • 83.jpg
    83.jpg
    72.9 KB · Views: 5,520
  • 84.jpg
    84.jpg
    74.9 KB · Views: 5,298
  • 85.jpg
    85.jpg
    67.9 KB · Views: 4,254
  • 86.jpg
    86.jpg
    66.6 KB · Views: 3,298
Nate,

I'd recommend covering/insulating all of your positive connections, in particular everything on the positive battery post and the winch solenoid. If anything metal comes in contact with those and the chassis/engine (most metal on your truck is grounded) then you have a fire risk. For example, if your battery rattles loose and hits the hood, or if you drop a wrench, or if your solenoid comes loose. One option would be to make covers out of rubber sheeting zip tied in place. In general all positive contacts on the truck should be insulated.

- Matt
 
Yeah the positive side is out of control. there has got to be a way to clean it up.. I'll research it a bit later.. and I'll definitely get the winch box covered and insulated. Thanks for the response
 
Nate, has your 4Runner burned to ground yet? Just kidding but I hope you taped up that positive to positive connection. :peep:


My Big-3 upgrade results .....

More pictures here @ pg. 20:

(Direct Link ---> post1349528)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-build-maintenance-thread-20.html#post1356923


Before






After





Final







The voltage results are in ... at idle it now ranges from 13.8v to 14.2v (tested using a $9 tool I bought on Amazon).

Before this upgrade I would barely get 13.0v when at idle.

:bump2:
 
Last edited:
BrianSD_42 said:
Nate, has your 4Runner burned to ground yet? Just kidding but I hope you taped up that positive to positive connection. :peep:
Click to expand...

I know right. :lalala: . I have been worried all week about it, but I did clean it up quite a bit after the pictures. What /where do I get that boxy thing all your wires are in? I went to Napa and asked and the guy kinda new what it was, but not really...marine store maybe? Anyways, bout to change out my plugs and wires and figured hell, why not replace the battery too.. So now I have a group 65 battery to install too and need to figure out how Im going to either flip terminals like BFAD or extend them out to the other side.. probably option #1 considering the angle of the hood and clearance.. SO anyways more updates soon.
 
Swapped out the battery and majorly cleaned up the wiring. Thanks for all the help. Finally started a build page too btw.. links in the doobleydoo...

 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

farmerjon
'98 Limited: swap push button 4WD transfer case for 98 SR5 j-shifter tcase & ADD
Replies
2
Views
2K
TheDurk
TheDurk
DK327
battery light on - battery tests good and alternator charging ok
Replies
1
Views
2K
ArthurKotb
ArthurKotb
U
Need MAF testing procedure and wire diagrams please
Replies
1
Views
837
spartacus
spartacus
P
Modifying Napa Compressor
Replies
5
Views
5K
psea17
P
P
Re-wiring Napa Compressor
Replies
12
Views
3K
psea17
P

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 4,454 (members: 0, guests: 4,454)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,315
Messages
3,554,125
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top