TheDurk
Elite Member
Here you go:
Performing the "Big 3" Wiring Ugrade on a 3rd Gen T4R - A How To
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
Here you go:
You sir, are stupendous!
Help me interpret this please? Looks like power is coming in from the 7.5A fuse, thru the charge light, and returning to the alternator? Is the alternator misinterpreting what is returning? or could something before the fuse be my problem? Fuse is fine, do you have a schematic for whats before the fuse (From Power Source System, Page 58)?
TheDurk
Elite Member
If your problem is the light is staying on, then the fuse and upstream of it are obviously not the problem. If all connections to the alt are good, and the alt is charging normally, then the section of the IC regulator that cuts ground to the indicator may be fried.
So either swap out the regulator or just live with the light.
Answers, I love answers! I may or may not have a warranty on this alternator. Will have to contact previous owner. If this is the case, how can I prove it is faulty? Any tests I can show definitive results for?
TheDurk
Elite Member
Well, there is the obvious of testing with another alt.
Presumably you can show continuity to ground on the L terminal with a test light while the engine is running. Connect your probe to the positive battery terminal and the other to the L terminal of the alt and see if the test light goes on. If that happens, either the alt is not charging, or the IC regulator is faulty. Either way it is defective. I don't think there is any static test you can do. Have to spin it to test it.
Nice write up. I have few questions. Why you have 4 wires if it's the big "3" upgrade ? Im guessing your 4th wire was from negative battery terminal to engine ? Why?
I only currently upgraded my ground wire from battery negative to chassis. Using a really really thick 2 gauge.
And I'd like to upgrade the other wires. I personally don't think it's good to crimp down on a solder connection. Your breaking the solder up inside the connector.
I only currently upgraded my ground wire from battery negative to chassis. Using a really really thick 2 gauge.
And I'd like to upgrade the other wires. I personally don't think it's good to crimp down on a solder connection. Your breaking the solder up inside the connector.
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So, I caved and replaced the alternator and guess what?! The damn light is still on! Where and how many ground cables are there? I'm gonna pull all of them off and clean em up. I got the obvious one on the drivers side fender next to the battery.
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Renegade_Medic
New member
Sweet! thanks for posting this up.
FishNotFeelings
New member
where are the pictures this thread is useless without them...
theesotericone
New member
Call Photo Bucket customer service and ask them.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Send me $40 via paypal so I can pay photobucket their extortion fee for the month, and I'll have them right up for you.
Otherwise, quit with the self entitled complaining. I figured it out on my own and so can you. The pictures will be restored when I have the time, until then you'll have to do without the spoon feeding.
BigFishAllDay
New member
The pictures in this write-up have all been restored. Big thanks go out to [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] for re-hosting the pics, and to [MENTION=84643]JBurt[/MENTION] for his willingness to help out as well.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
I went with the CS144 in 2009 on my 96 for winch and amp, cooler when camping. I added lights in 2010. Has never let me down 100k mi, well worth it.
MountainBiker
Member
Solder only or crimp and solder?
Great writeup BFAD!
Regarding the solder strength question, there is just one phrase to keep in mind: solder bonds are strong, bulk solder is weak. Take a piece of solder wire and bend it or pull it until it breaks, and you'll see what I mean. So if it were me, I'd keep the solder joint thin by crimping then soldering, not because the crimp will hold it together, but because the thin solder joint will!
Great writeup BFAD!
Regarding the solder strength question, there is just one phrase to keep in mind: solder bonds are strong, bulk solder is weak. Take a piece of solder wire and bend it or pull it until it breaks, and you'll see what I mean. So if it were me, I'd keep the solder joint thin by crimping then soldering, not because the crimp will hold it together, but because the thin solder joint will!
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I did this a few years ago (it's also popular on 2nd Gens with great results) and it gives me the peace of mind running a bumpin' stereo, extra lighting, 2nd fuel pump etc. I have more consistent voltage now, and with the stock alternator still.
StreetCreeper
New member
By any chance did you or the previous owner swap any dash gauge bulbs inside the cluster? I ask because I had some odd goings' on similar to your situation with a light that would not go off when it should and not come me on when it should. Can't recall exactly what the issue was but I remember having to fiddle with or replace the bulb itself. Made no sense to me at the time – but it worked whatever I did.
I'm about to do the upgrade and was wondering the same thing
Did you ever get an answer?
-B
Did you ever get an answer?
-B
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
The soldering is actually pretty easy. All you need is some solder, a vice or pair of vicegrips and a cheap butane torch from Home Depot. I found it much easier than soldering little 20 AWG wires since it's not detailed work, just heat it up, stick the wires in and then let it cool and it's rock solid.
I know there was someone selling kits for 2nd Gens for a while, but I have not seen any for sale for 3rd Gens.
Kanoe
New member
You could always crimp. These hammer crimpers used in a heavy bench vise do a very good job. Professional looking results can be achieved.
https://www.amazon.com/Forney-57637...qid=1516135366&sr=8-1&keywords=hammer+crimper
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