The multi-mode cluster is different than the 2WD and non-multimode 4WD cluster. You probably have the visible 4WD indicator over in the gas gauge section of the cluster (never lights up, of course...). If you are doing a multi-mode swap, then you need a multi-mode cluster for the 4WD indicators (up top, center, between the turn signals).So I got my hands on a limited ‘99 ECU with the harness that goes into the engine bay. I’ve got my heads out so that is going to be very convenient. My question now is, will my speedometer cluster automatically light up or is there further modification I have to do to get the 4x4 signal to light up? I tried to get the exact trim and year to prevent as much cross referencing years as possible.
The multi-mode cluster is different than the 2WD and non-multimode 4WD cluster. You probably have the visible 4WD indicator over in the gas gauge section of the cluster (never lights up, of course...). If you are doing a multi-mode swap, then you need a multi-mode cluster for the 4WD indicators (up top, center, between the turn signals).
See here: Cluster Differences
-Charlie
The closest PN you are guessing is for a 4-cylinder.... so that's not it. I bet the part number you got from the seller has a typo or two in it. If it has the right transfer case, the bellhousing top has "VZ" stamped on it, and it has a kickdown (errr... line pressure control) cable, you are safe. I have a '97 trans running just fine in my '99.Yeah, I pulled it while I was there just in case. I am going to need that after all. Mine currently does only have the indicator (not lit up of course). Now I have an interesting issue which, upon a ton of searching on Toyota, and also numerous forums, I cannot seem to match this transmission part number to any year. I have sourced a transmission from a guy online but I always want to confirm part numbers. He is parting out a '99 Limited 4x4. So it should all work rather nice for mine. But I have looked up the part number everywhere and nothing. At all. I'm curious if you, or anyone for that matter has experienced this? The part number is 35010-3D460. The closest match I can find is the '96 but that doesn't match either (It's 35000-3D460). The mystery transmission has the correct j-shifter so am I safe here? Why can't I find that part anywhere? Again, thanks for all the help!
Damn, we are neighbors.
Hi Charlie,Sport seats installed!
-Charlie
I mostly daily drive a car on coilovers (solid front strut tops, rubber rear) with fully poly bushings all around... so take my opinion with a grain of salt. Oh, and I hooked up my front swaybar again for the first time in a year or so.I’m interested to see what you report back for ride quality. Some say it’s noticeably more harsh & others have reported no harshness in rise quality. Can’t wait to see what you find.
With all the extra time I have available at the moment, I was able to knock out a few more things on the 4Runner.
First, I tried to re-seal the rear driver's side door. The vapor barrier plastic wasn't held down to the inner door skin very well and was allowing rain water to leak to the inside where it falls on the door seal instead of to the outside. Big rains coming over the next week, so we will see if the change worked. No pics there.
Also fully flushed the PS fluid and cleaned the reservoir. New o-ring on the reservoir to pump body too. My daughter 'helped' out working on the car for the first time. She was surprisingly into it...
I want to keep that plastic removable still, so I re-used what was there. The dirtiest of the sealant was removed, I grabbed some from the top where it was still in good shape and carefully re-spread and mixed it up in place. Then rolled it back down with a small wood roller. The 'right' way to do it is with new butyl sealant tape, which is the same stuff you can buy for re-sealing headlights.Nice to see Charlie, and the helper too! What did you use to seal that plastic vapor barrier? I used a bead of 100% silicone some time back and the last I had checked it did the job well.
I also got the first bit of wiring for the 4WD system done. These are the wires that run the ADD VSV's. Just two power wires and a ground that connects to the driver's fender. The two wires that run into the cab are there in the dash harness, so all I had to do was clip them into the engine bay side of the plug under the dash after getting them in to the cab through the grommet.
![]()
You can just barely see them going to the back side of the large plug above my hand:
![]()
I still have to connect up the transfer case position indicator switches and the ADD position switch. I have to pull apart that side of the dash to see what wiring is already there to decide my plan of attack there. I also have to put in a few bulbs for the 4WD light and ATP light.
-Charlie
Well, hopefully you didn't literally cut them from the donor... I 'just' pinned the two wires right into the stock connector there under the dash. The ground wires I trust you have figured out.So like many of us I've been using some new found free time to get some projects done. I've been busy with the swap (along with the full engine rebuild) for the last few months. Engine is done now I'm getting all of the 4x4 details set up. I swapped the 4x4 ECU+harness to make all of those wires just plug and play but when it comes to the VSV wires I had no choice but to cut those from the donor. So my question for you is how did you get those set up? I got the grounds in their place but in the harness inside the car did you use quick splice adaptors to tap into existing wires or was there blank spot in the plug you had to pin them into? I just want to be 1000 percent sure I'm getting those into the existing wires correctly and just need to be pointed in the right direction. I can plug and unplug and ECU and harness all day but if I'm splicing things and looking for two wires in a harness the fear and confusion starts rising so I'd rather ask than do something stupidI have successfully wired a trailer brake controller and that's basically the extent of my wiring abilities.