Nashvegas34
New member
This is really more of a "hey, I did this" than a "hey, how do you do this" or a "hey, what size tires can I run" post. I ran into a couple of small things that might help someone out down the road.
My truck is at 184,000 miles and it was time for new spark plugs (last change at 120,000), so since I would be taking a few things apart to get to them, in addition to replacing the plugs I replaced the spark plug wires, did the deckplate mod, cleaned the MAF, removed and cleaned the throttle body, and tightened up the 8 valve cover bolts that I could reach. I took no pictures because I basically followed these writeups step by step...
Spark plugs: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/59008-how-installing-3rd-gen-spark-plugs.html
MAF and throttle body: 4Runners.org - Cleaning Your Throttle Body and MAF (except I took the throttle body completely off)
Decplate: Toyota 4Runner Highlander Deckplate and Air Filter Modification
...with a few alterations noted below.
For parts, I used:
Spark plugs: Denso K16TR11, Part Detail
Spark plug wires: NGK TE66, Amazon.com: NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set: Automotive
Deckplate: 4" black, Amazon.com: Screw Out Deck Plate - Available in Various Sizes and Colors: Sports & Outdoors
MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner (spray cans) from Advance Auto
Since the writeups linked above describe the actual procedures I used, here are the things I did or ran into that were different:
Deckplate:
I did not install a screen on the hole like the writeup showed. I cut the hole just big enough to where the deckplate mount slid in snugly, leaving no room for the screen and clamp. I'll keep an eye on it, and if necessary I'll widen the hole, but I'd prefer not to because it would be kind of a pain and very messy with all the plastic shavings.
MAF:
Mine was spotless, but I took it out prior to cutting into the airbox and sprayed it with MAF cleaner anyway.
Spark plug wires:
My wires were original, so when I went to pull them from the coil packs on the passenger side, the boots were so brittle that all three broke. I wasn't concerned because I was replacing the wires, but be careful if you are changing plugs and planning on reusing your wires. I just took note of which wires were connected to which cylinders and how they were paired. If you are standing in front looking at the engine, the cylinders are numbered...
Firewall
5 6
3 4
1 2
Grille
...and paired by the wires as 1-4, 3-6, 5-2. The wires are different lengths and numbered so it would be hard to put them on wrong. I had no problems pulling out the coil packs on the passenger side or the boots on the driver side, but I did have to disconnect/move a couple of things on the driver side like the writeup showed, especially to get to the plug in cylinder 6. I used a couple of extensions and a 5/8' spark plug socket with a rubber washer inside it to pull and install the plugs. My plugs were not dirty or burnt at all after just over 60,000 miles since the last change.
Throttle body:
The writeup above shows the throttle plate being cleaned while the throttle body is still attached to the intake, and lots of guys do this by just spraying cleaner into it and wiping it out. My throttle plate wasn't all that dirty, but this was the first time I had ever cleaned it and I was a little sketched out about some dirty crap falling into my intake, so I removed the throttle body completely. Removing it wasn't difficult, but you have to disconnect 2 wire harnesses and 4 hoses from it to get it off. The 3 hoses on the bottom of it are a pain to remove because space is tight and the hoses may be stuck on there from having never been removed. Two of the hoses are for coolant and have terrible hose clamps on them. Getting to these clamps was by far the most difficult part of the process. Have a towel ready to catch a little bit of coolant that will come out when you disconnect. Once the throttle body was off and on the ground, I just sprayed the heck out of it with cleaner and wiped it out until it was squeaky clean, then reinstalled and reconnected everything. Have some fresh air ready to breathe while you are spraying the cleaner, because you will get high if you're in an enclosed space, like my garage. I managed to stumble over to the garage door opener before having to take a deep breath.
Valve cover bolts:
I've had a small leak from the valve cover gaskets for a little while, as evidenced by the burning oil smell and sludge accumulating around the bolts. I'm not sure how many bolts there actually are, but I could see 8, 4 on each side. They were all very loose, so I tightened them down gently while I was in the area. I'm hoping this stops the leak so I don't have to deal with actually replacing the VCGs.
Results:
I think I am fortunate because my engine has run flawlessly for more than 11 years, so I didn't expect any drastic improvements in performance. I do feel better, though, about having new wires and a clean throttle body, plus the new plugs that were due. As for the deckplate, I don't think I can really tell a difference. It may accelerate just a hair better while already moving, like when passing, but nothing drastic. I'm still using the OEM air filter and still have the intake silencer, though. I have no desire to switch to an oiled high-flow filter, but I do want to remove the intake silencer at some point to really free up the air movement.
Overall, a nice little Saturday, and I had just enough time.
My truck is at 184,000 miles and it was time for new spark plugs (last change at 120,000), so since I would be taking a few things apart to get to them, in addition to replacing the plugs I replaced the spark plug wires, did the deckplate mod, cleaned the MAF, removed and cleaned the throttle body, and tightened up the 8 valve cover bolts that I could reach. I took no pictures because I basically followed these writeups step by step...
Spark plugs: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/59008-how-installing-3rd-gen-spark-plugs.html
MAF and throttle body: 4Runners.org - Cleaning Your Throttle Body and MAF (except I took the throttle body completely off)
Decplate: Toyota 4Runner Highlander Deckplate and Air Filter Modification
...with a few alterations noted below.
For parts, I used:
Spark plugs: Denso K16TR11, Part Detail
Spark plug wires: NGK TE66, Amazon.com: NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set: Automotive
Deckplate: 4" black, Amazon.com: Screw Out Deck Plate - Available in Various Sizes and Colors: Sports & Outdoors
MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner (spray cans) from Advance Auto
Since the writeups linked above describe the actual procedures I used, here are the things I did or ran into that were different:
Deckplate:
I did not install a screen on the hole like the writeup showed. I cut the hole just big enough to where the deckplate mount slid in snugly, leaving no room for the screen and clamp. I'll keep an eye on it, and if necessary I'll widen the hole, but I'd prefer not to because it would be kind of a pain and very messy with all the plastic shavings.
MAF:
Mine was spotless, but I took it out prior to cutting into the airbox and sprayed it with MAF cleaner anyway.
Spark plug wires:
My wires were original, so when I went to pull them from the coil packs on the passenger side, the boots were so brittle that all three broke. I wasn't concerned because I was replacing the wires, but be careful if you are changing plugs and planning on reusing your wires. I just took note of which wires were connected to which cylinders and how they were paired. If you are standing in front looking at the engine, the cylinders are numbered...
Firewall
5 6
3 4
1 2
Grille
...and paired by the wires as 1-4, 3-6, 5-2. The wires are different lengths and numbered so it would be hard to put them on wrong. I had no problems pulling out the coil packs on the passenger side or the boots on the driver side, but I did have to disconnect/move a couple of things on the driver side like the writeup showed, especially to get to the plug in cylinder 6. I used a couple of extensions and a 5/8' spark plug socket with a rubber washer inside it to pull and install the plugs. My plugs were not dirty or burnt at all after just over 60,000 miles since the last change.
Throttle body:
The writeup above shows the throttle plate being cleaned while the throttle body is still attached to the intake, and lots of guys do this by just spraying cleaner into it and wiping it out. My throttle plate wasn't all that dirty, but this was the first time I had ever cleaned it and I was a little sketched out about some dirty crap falling into my intake, so I removed the throttle body completely. Removing it wasn't difficult, but you have to disconnect 2 wire harnesses and 4 hoses from it to get it off. The 3 hoses on the bottom of it are a pain to remove because space is tight and the hoses may be stuck on there from having never been removed. Two of the hoses are for coolant and have terrible hose clamps on them. Getting to these clamps was by far the most difficult part of the process. Have a towel ready to catch a little bit of coolant that will come out when you disconnect. Once the throttle body was off and on the ground, I just sprayed the heck out of it with cleaner and wiped it out until it was squeaky clean, then reinstalled and reconnected everything. Have some fresh air ready to breathe while you are spraying the cleaner, because you will get high if you're in an enclosed space, like my garage. I managed to stumble over to the garage door opener before having to take a deep breath.
Valve cover bolts:
I've had a small leak from the valve cover gaskets for a little while, as evidenced by the burning oil smell and sludge accumulating around the bolts. I'm not sure how many bolts there actually are, but I could see 8, 4 on each side. They were all very loose, so I tightened them down gently while I was in the area. I'm hoping this stops the leak so I don't have to deal with actually replacing the VCGs.
Results:
I think I am fortunate because my engine has run flawlessly for more than 11 years, so I didn't expect any drastic improvements in performance. I do feel better, though, about having new wires and a clean throttle body, plus the new plugs that were due. As for the deckplate, I don't think I can really tell a difference. It may accelerate just a hair better while already moving, like when passing, but nothing drastic. I'm still using the OEM air filter and still have the intake silencer, though. I have no desire to switch to an oiled high-flow filter, but I do want to remove the intake silencer at some point to really free up the air movement.
Overall, a nice little Saturday, and I had just enough time.
