Projector Retrofit Picture Thread and FAQ

Hello, I am new here and want to ask you guys that are more knowledgeable on the subject of headlights assembly;
I own 96 limited and 2 months ago a purchase 2002 DEPO headlights assembly for my 96 and everything went perfect put new halogen bulb and wait for the night to try them, night time came i turn on the lights.
The light cut off or light distribution was horrible, don't get wrong it was brighter than the 96, but the light distribution or beam pattern was bad, a lot of distortion.
2 week's ago I went to my local junkyard and found me nice pair 01 headlights ( OEM ) no scratches, no rust, no deformity just perfect, purchase the used good condition OEM headlights for $80 and installed them on my runner, night comes and the same history as my depo, horrible light distribution as well.
3 day's ago I installed the old 96 headlights back and the lights beam distribution was perfect, ( normal ) no more uneven light, off course not as perfect as a HID retrofit but still the light cut off or distribution was better.
So 96 to 98 headlights assembly had better lighting distribution and less distortion that the 99 to 02 headlights ??
Again, 99 to 02 are brighter tha the 96 to 98 but seems like 96 to 98 have a even light distribution or pattern !?
Or just I was unlucky and both of my 02 DEPO and 01 OEM where defected or the 99 to 02 are just a good example of the natural of the beast and there is nothing that can't do about it ??
I know you'll will say ( just go retrofit ) and that would be a good idea and I probably would do it in the future.
I appreciate any explanation.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
 
Hello, I am new here and want to ask you guys that are more knowledgeable on the subject of headlights assembly;
I own 96 limited and 2 months ago a purchase 2002 DEPO headlights assembly for my 96 and everything went perfect put new halogen bulb and wait for the night to try them, night time came i turn on the lights.
The light cut off or light distribution was horrible, don't get wrong it was brighter than the 96, but the light distribution or beam pattern was bad, a lot of distortion.
2 week's ago I went to my local junkyard and found me nice pair 01 headlights ( OEM ) no scratches, no rust, no deformity just perfect, purchase the used good condition OEM headlights for $80 and installed them on my runner, night comes and the same history as my depo, horrible light distribution as well.
3 day's ago I installed the old 96 headlights back and the lights beam distribution was perfect, ( normal ) no more uneven light, off course not as perfect as a HID retrofit but still the light cut off or distribution was better.
So 96 to 98 headlights assembly had better lighting distribution and less distortion that the 99 to 02 headlights ??
Again, 99 to 02 are brighter tha the 96 to 98 but seems like 96 to 98 have a even light distribution or pattern !?
Or just I was unlucky and both of my 02 DEPO and 01 OEM where defected or the 99 to 02 are just a good example of the natural of the beast and there is nothing that can't do about it ??
I know you'll will say ( just go retrofit ) and that would be a good idea and I probably would do it in the future.
I appreciate any explanation.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk


Aftermarket lights are a bit of a challenge. I’ve swapped several 3rd gen Dodge Ram housings……man what a headache it is to get a set that does what it’s supposed to.

Looking back, i wished I had ponied up the 500$ and just did an OEM. The Depo CAPA lights I bought are good, worlds better than the previous 2 sets of aftermarket junk. But they aren’t quite to the OEM made in Mexico my originals were.

My 99’ 4runner lights are coming apart on the inside. I bought a Toyota glass lens exact OEM set of headlights lights (and tail lights) they are in the garage, and probably getting installed this week as soon as I get my valve covers and timing belt buttoned back up.

Don’t fight it. Just get OEM lenses and some really nice bulbs like silver stars or some other high end halogen. More coin but certainly worth it as it seems with lights you get exactly what you pay for.

I keep looking at projector retrofits. I want them, but I’m scared. Everyone I know has had all kinds of issues that have done retrofits. Power issues, harnesses melting. Lenses getting moisture, ballasts, etc.

I wished Morimoto made a set of Led replacement housings. I’d gladly pay the $1k+ for them things on both of my personal rigs.
 
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Since last posts are not directly related to retrofits and I don't want my question buried... :fencing: I'm quoting it here. If someone could please help, I'd really appreciate it. Photos available on previous posts a few back.
Buy/find the correct parts to follow the wiring diagram that you have..............
 
Since last posts are not directly related to retrofits and I don't want my question buried... :fencing: I'm quoting it here. If someone could please help, I'd really appreciate it. Photos available on previous posts a few back.

It's just simple relay wiring, not sure why you're having such a hard time? And secondly, why aren't you asking the business from which you purchased the harness?

Regardless:
33104.MotoControl_BiXenon_H4_9003.080.png


Work through the leads, you have power in for the lights, this is controlled by the relay. The relay is turned on and off by the OEM light connector (triggers the shields through the relay too), relay connects to ballast and high beam (shield control) on the lights. Ballast connects to the lights... lights then connect to ground.

Connect what you know, then work on what you Don't know.
 
Okay, so my question is specifically related to H1 to H4 connection. I have contacted manufacturer and followed diagram up to this missing point. I do not have the Morimoto relay nor am I asking how a relay, ballast, igniter, solenoid, etc. works. Please see my original post.

I am asking how to wire the projector shroud solenoid and H1 HID kit into the H4. I was thinking of using a male H4 (?) but just need a wiring diagram. I’ve seen several conflicting diagrams for which wire does what, common grounds, DRLs causing issues, etc.

Please be nice :) I’m asking cus I’m frustrated…


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Look, I'm blunt because it's a waste of my time/life to baby talk people. It's not being mean, just direct... if you have a problem with that... well, skip. Recognize that I am spending MY time to try and help you (as are everyone else who posts, if anyone else will bother.)


FWIW, that h4 harness you bought has nothing to do with going HID. Zero point to it at all for this application. You needed this: Amazon.com: O-NEX HID Relay Harness 9007 (HB5 9004) 12V 35W/55W Bi-Xenon Hi/Lo H/L Wiring Controller : Automotive or something like it.

Sounds like that's probably why you're confused and not able to sort this out.
 
I was thinking of using a male H4 (?) but just need a wiring diagram. I’ve seen several conflicting diagrams for which wire does what, common grounds, DRLs causing issues, etc.

Please be nice :) I’m asking cus I’m frustrated…
There are conflicting diagrams because the 3rd gen 4Runner has different headlight wiring depending on model, trim and original delivery location. Get a multimeter and figure it out.

There is a common wire - it will either be 12V or ground (depending, we can't tell you what your truck is) and there will be high and low filament connections - again - we can't tell you whether it is going to be 12V or Ground.

Then connect as needed for the rest of your harness.

You need one output that will be on whether the high or low beam is on (for the HID power) and then one 12V signal for the solenoid that is only on when the high beams are on. If your harness can do that, great - if not, you will need to buy more parts (maybe as simple as a diode, maybe much more).

-Charlie
 
If it helps, I have a 2000 SR5 (w DRLs that I keep unplugged). Can't say where delivered, but it was late-2000 production with CA emissions (dual cat).
As an extra bit of help, the DRL trucks should have a common ground and the non-DRL trucks should have common power.

It would be totally reasonable to pull the shield power from the stock wiring (it just powers a couple little solenoids in a bi-xenon setup). Also if there are switchback LEDs, halos, etc. those can come from the stock wiring without hassle.

-Charlie
 
Look, I'm blunt because it's a waste of my time/life to baby talk people. It's not being mean, just direct... if you have a problem with that... well, skip. Recognize that I am spending MY time to try and help you (as are everyone else who posts, if anyone else will bother.)

Damn that horse is tall, how's the weather up there? :rofl: Literally no one is forcing you to reply. If you don't like it, don't reply and take your attitude elsewhere. Simple as.
I don't recall you being the forum police. And if you're time is being spent on moderating an outdated 4runner forum for free... well it certainly isn't worth that much to begin with. Food for thought. There's no reason to light someone up because they're not understanding something.
 
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TYC housings...

Put the light lens-down in the oven once it reaches 240℉, do not put it in while it's preheating. Take out after 10 minutes and run a razor along the seam between the lens and housing then return to oven for another 10 minutes.

Take out of oven, slice along the seam again a few times, then begin prying the lens apart gently at the bottom with a drywall or putty knife. As you slowly pry the lens off cut the sealer stretching apart to avoid getting any on the chrome reflector, although it's not so critical if you're going to scuff and paint over the chrome.
 

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