Proof that if you want something done right you gotta do it yourself

TexasAg

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Don't flame me for not searching. I'm leaving dealer for 40k oil change and noticed on bill they used 5w30. Should I be worried or just let it go and change again in 5k?

Dealer gave me a voucher for free oil change (so they can use wrong stuff again). Didn't want to wait since I would have no proof they did drain and use the correct stuff anyways.
 
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I'm no oil expert, but I think you'll be ok.

I would've had them do it all over again with the right oil as soon as I saw the bill.
 
My vote is to at the very least drain and refill the sump with 0W-20 ASAP. My opinion is worth about as much as my opinion on automotive design, which is to say, not much at all.

We had a member with 90k miles that had to have a major repair. Would like to know the cause of that failure. Was it related to too thin of oil? Another blew the front main seal.

With only two reported failures maybe it doesn't matter what is in there within reason: 0W-20, 0W-30 or 5W-30.

Yes we have already debated this to death. Now that we are getting some miles is anyone running any weight other than 0W-20?
 
Go back and tell them you want the correct oil in there. They should know better.

^This, or give them the option to leave the wrong oil in there and have them agree to give you something in writing that they will be held responsible should any oil related failures arise down the road. Something tells me they'll be more than accommodating if you put it that way, lol.

But seriously, just go back and nicely explain to them that you would feel much more comfortable with the proper oil in there, I'm sure they'll take care of it for you. Don't want to piss em off, or they can simply just pull your truck back there, sit on it for an hour, and then pull it back out with the same wrong oil and told you they changed it.

Realistically speaking as long as you're not in super duper cold weather right now, you are probably in no immediate danger. But definitely get the right stuff in there as soon as practical.
 
From page 637 of the manual:

"SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.
If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change"

... I'd make them change it.
 
The reason why all manufacturers state "If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change" is because they get huge monetary credits from the gov't for increased fuel economy. By using very thin oil they get marginal gains in fuel economy, but across the entire fleet of cars they manufacture they end up cumulatively getting better mileage and bigger tax credits.

If it wasn't ok for your engine, then they wouldn't put that statement in the owner's manual. They would say, "Use only 0W-20 oil. No substitutes. If you can't find it in your local store, look harder. It's out there." Or something along that line.

Here's more proof that the oil spec type is all about fuel economy. The 4th gen 4Runner uses the exact same engine and the owner's manual calls for 5W-30.

I wouldn't worry about it at all. 0W-20 seems awful thin though. Every though they spec it, I'd feel more comfortable with something a bit thicker like a 5W-30.
 
The reason why all manufacturers state "If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change" is because they get huge monetary credits from the gov't for increased fuel economy. By using very thin oil they get marginal gains in fuel economy, but across the entire fleet of cars they manufacture they end up cumulatively getting better mileage and bigger tax credits.

If it wasn't ok for your engine, then they wouldn't put that statement in the owner's manual. They would say, "Use only 0W-20 oil. No substitutes. If you can't find it in your local store, look harder. It's out there." Or something along that line.

Here's more proof that the oil spec type is all about fuel economy. The 4th gen 4Runner uses the exact same engine and the owner's manual calls for 5W-30.

I wouldn't worry about it at all. 0W-20 seems awful thin though. Every though they spec it, I'd feel more comfortable with something a bit thicker like a 5W-30.

I don't mean to intrude on your choice of oils because I know that what you run in your engine is none of my business, but if you have a chance you really should read up on the great reviews of Toyota Motor Corp's own 0w20. It's some great stuff!

I honestly would not worry about it being too thin, unless maybe you were planning to do continuous high speed driving through a blazing hot desert, lol.

You'd probably be doing more harm than good using 5w30 in an engine built with tight enough tolerances to run 0w20 :)
 
The reason why all manufacturers state "If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change" is because they get huge monetary credits from the gov't for increased fuel economy. By using very thin oil they get marginal gains in fuel economy, but across the entire fleet of cars they manufacture they end up cumulatively getting better mileage and bigger tax credits.

If it wasn't ok for your engine, then they wouldn't put that statement in the owner's manual. They would say, "Use only 0W-20 oil. No substitutes. If you can't find it in your local store, look harder. It's out there." Or something along that line.

Here's more proof that the oil spec type is all about fuel economy. The 4th gen 4Runner uses the exact same engine and the owner's manual calls for 5W-30.

I wouldn't worry about it at all. 0W-20 seems awful thin though. Every though they spec it, I'd feel more comfortable with something a bit thicker like a 5W-30.

I don't necessarily disagree with the other stuff but, just so you know, it's not the same engine.
 
If they can't get an oil change right what else are they going to screw up under there? I would have asked for my money back and gone somewhere else, really it's the most basic skill to pour the proper oil, and it's really not even skill just reading ability.

Make sure you rip them on the follow up survey.
 
Think he means they both use the 1GR-FE foundation, though the 5th gets dual VVT-i on the top floor.

Yes, I stand corrected. It is the same block, but they added the VVT-I. They are the same size and same displacement. I recall when the 2UZ motors got the VVT-I add on, the oil weights/specs did not change.
 
I don't mean to intrude on your choice of oils because I know that what you run in your engine is none of my business, but if you have a chance you really should read up on the great reviews of Toyota Motor Corp's own 0w20. It's some great stuff!

I honestly would not worry about it being too thin, unless maybe you were planning to do continuous high speed driving through a blazing hot desert, lol.

You'd probably be doing more harm than good using 5w30 in an engine built with tight enough tolerances to run 0w20 :)

No intrusion at all. But you do realize that Toyota does not make their own oil. In fact Toyota branded oil is a Mobil product. Also, dealerships buy whatever they can get the best deal on. If you take a survey of all the dealers in your region, you'll find one pushing Mobil products, one pushing Valvoline, etc. The same goes with your local shops. They purchase in bulk, and often times what they can get the best price on based upon their quantity purchased. Most shops and dealerships don't agonize over oil brands or have brand loyalty like us enthusiasts.

So, if you really want to be sure you are getting the brand and grade oil you want in your vehicle, you have to buy it and change your fluids yourself.

Next time you're in an O'reallys or Vatozone, ask them who makes their house brand products. Each employee will tell you something different and basically just flat out lie to you. The same for a dealership.
 
so they went.. synthetic no non synthetic then want you to go back to synthetic.. correct me if i'm wrong but i've always been told not to switch back and forth with synthetic. take that shit back and ask that you watch since you can't trust them now.. (YES it has been done while i worked at toyota, they let customers in the garage to watch key areas of work)
 
Go back and tell them you want the correct oil in there. They should know better.

Absolutely, If you have a problem later with engine, which in all probability you will not, you can be sure they would blame you for causing the problem if you used the wrong oil.
 
Next time you're in an O'reallys or Vatozone, ask them who makes their house brand products. Each employee will tell you something different and basically just flat out lie to you. The same for a dealership.

I can't believe in my 20+ years in the automotive industry! I've never heard this before. I laughed so loud my kids wanted to see what I was doing on my iPad.
 
You have the right to insist that they use the oil spec'd in your OM.
If they can't prove to your satisfaction that they are using a quality bulk 0w20 then I would insist that they allow you to watch them put in bottled TGMO or get your money back. I would even agree to pay a little more if necessary.


I wouldn't get crazy about it and insist on new filter or anything, just a drain and fill.

Switching between synth and non-synth is not the issue that people used to think it was.

IIRC. The wear numbers being reported with 0W20 are now worse than "heavier" weight oils.

I would not use a 30wt oil in this engine unless I was really pushing it in offroad or racing situations AND having oil pressure issues.
YMMV (literally).

TGMO is now made by Mobil to Toyota specs but has been made by other mfgs in other markets.
It is NOT Mobil 1.
 
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Don't flame me for not searching. I'm leaving dealer for 40k oil change and noticed on bill they used 5w30. Should I be worried or just let it go and change again in 5k?

Dealer gave me a voucher for free oil change (so they can use wrong stuff again). Didn't want to wait since I would have no proof they did drain and use the correct stuff anyways.

I've been going to bob Howard and haven't had any problems. If you need any help learning how to change just let me know and I can learn you good if your still living down the street.
 
I've been going to bob Howard and haven't had any problems. If you need any help learning how to change just let me know and I can learn you good if your still living down the street.

Funny you guessed right! I've never had problems before either. I've always taken my wife's 2010 4R there and mine. I think the culprit is the TRD oil filler cap (I think the tech dropped it too! there is a ding on the corner of the nice shiny billet aluminum). It doesn't state 0w20 like the OEM cap. Still I would expect more from a technician.

I've been lazy to do it myself. I printed the step by step from [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] and just need to do it. (and put my budbuilts on for heaven's sake!)
 
Funny you guessed right! I've never had problems before either. I've always taken my wife's 2010 4R there and mine. I think the culprit is the TRD oil filler cap (I think the tech dropped it too! there is a ding on the corner of the nice shiny billet aluminum). It doesn't state 0w20 like the OEM cap. Still I would expect more from a technician.

I've been lazy to do it myself. I printed the step by step from [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] and just need to do it. (and put my budbuilts on for heaven's sake!)

I can change this oil in my sleep (worked in a change bay through college), holler if you need a bit of help.

I've only be having Bob Howard do it till my house is done and they are cheaper than I can do it myself. I've hot a dang lift kit sitting waiting to go on!
 

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