Pulling and replacing motor Q’s: 4.7 V8

[AuSeeker]

When you unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate, you will need to install the torque converter on the transmission before bolting the engine back up. You will also need to be 100% certain that the torque converter is completely slid into the front pump of the transmission, because if you don't, it will destroy the pump and the torque converter. I know this by personal reference when I was pretty green as a tech way back in the day. HAHA. Usually what I do is when I'm bolting the engine and trans together, I reach in the starter hole and through one of the holes on the flex plate and just make sure the torque converter spins freely. If it does while you're bolting the block up, you're golden, but if you check it, and it doesn't spin, STOP and undo whatever it is you just did. That torque converter needs to be able to spin freely even when the engine and trans are 100% tight to each other.

This is very good advice, this is not only true with a T4R but also almost if not all other automatic transmissions!!

On the the torque converter there are 2 notches on the nipple that goes into the transmission, these notches have to engage with the front pump of the transmission, the torque converter needs to be inserted into the transmission while being very careful not to damage the oil seal and slowly rotated with pressure toward the transmission until the notches engages with the pump and slides further into the transmission, take care when attaching the transmission to the engine that the torque converter doesn't silde forward and disengages from the pump or you will have the issue as mentioned above by Cruiserfanatic!

After you have gotten to this point and the torque converter can rotate freely, you then turn the engine to access the bolt hole in the flex plate, then rotate the torque converter until the hole on it lines up with the flex plate and insert the bolt, don't tighten the bolt completely as there will be a small gap between the flex plate and the torque converter unless you can get the torque converter to move towards the engine to eliminate the gap, at this point rotate the engine to the next bolt hole and do likewise as the first bolt, and then repeat until all the bolts are in and then you can keep rotating the assembly and tighten the bolts until you have them all torqued to the proper specs.

 

[nevada]

When you unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate, you will need to install the torque converter on the transmission before bolting the engine back up. You will also need to be 100% certain that the torque converter is completely slid into the front pump of the transmission, because if you don't, it will destroy the pump and the torque converter. I know this by personal reference when I was pretty green as a tech way back in the day. HAHA. Usually what I do is when I'm bolting the engine and trans together, I reach in the starter hole and through one of the holes on the flex plate and just make sure the torque converter spins freely. If it does while you're bolting the block up, you're golden, but if you check it, and it doesn't spin, STOP and undo whatever it is you just did. That torque converter needs to be able to spin freely even when the engine and trans are 100% tight to each other.

truth!

I know the same...for the same reason. lol. bad day...

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

Yay...may have to go thru all this in the next couple of weeks. I shall know more tomorrow when I pull the one or both the heads.

 

[Qlaloo]

Incase anyone was curious, I have the original motor yanked and will be receiving new motor towards the end of this week. Wasn't near as bad as I expected, but still have a lot to go. TONS of wiring to be put back correctly.

Where did you get your motor from?

 

[kmahl]

Where did you get your motor from?

Ordered from Ebay. Over the course of two weeks there were only two motors posted online that fit my criteria. If I had a pre 05 V8 or the V6 would of been a lot better.

 

[kmahl]

Had to pull the oil pan off to get access all the torque converter bolts... I think I found the problem with the motor....

I don't know how this didn't make any noise when the motor initially stalled out. The motor went from running to off as if I turned the key..

I probably could of replaced the rod and potentially had a working engine for much cheaper rather than buying a whole new one.. but now I have duplicates of everything and shaved some miles off...

 

[kmahl]

Now is great time to change or at least inspect the timing belt and water pump and exhaust manifolds!

I had a really hard time changing my timing belt. My pulleys for the valves look nothing like the ones on ANY of the write ups or the one you have pictured. Mine had no notches on the pulleys themselves. I made A LOT of marks with a paint marker on the belt and the pulleys. Then transferred the marks from the original belt to the new one with the teeth lined up exactly.. It should be good but I'm still extremely nervous because I didn't have the reassurance of having the notches

Mine is like the ne pictured

 

[Cruiserfanatic]

I had a really hard time changing my timing belt. My pulleys for the valves look nothing like the ones on ANY of the write ups or the one you have pictured. Mine had no notches on the pulleys themselves. I made A LOT of marks with a paint marker on the belt and the pulleys. Then transferred the marks from the original belt to the new one with the teeth lined up exactly.. It should be good but I'm still extremely nervous because I didn't have the reassurance of having the notches

Mine is like the ne pictured

Marks are still on these pulley's, they're just harder to see. Yours look different because yours has VVTI. You need to be 100% sure that the timing belt is installed correctly, and also DO NOT let these camshafts spin on their own when the timing belt is removed, or you can just about guarantee that some of the valves will bend. I don't know this one by personal experience, but have witnessed it firsthand by an old coworker. My question is though, do the pulley's on the old engine and on the new engine look the same? If not, the new engine isn't going to work in your vehicle.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

Marks are still on these pulley's, they're just harder to see. Yours look different because yours has VVTI. You need to be 100% sure that the timing belt is installed correctly, and also DO NOT let these camshafts spin on their own when the timing belt is removed, or you can just about guarantee that some of the valves will bend. I don't know this one by personal experience, but have witnessed it firsthand by an old coworker. My question is though, do the pulley's on the old engine and on the new engine look the same? If not, the new engine isn't going to work in your vehicle.

Pretty sure that the reason the FSM says to rotate the engine 50deg BTDC is so if those camshafts spin it won't damage the valves. My blown motor cam pulley's moved and if they hit, pretty sure you would know it. However I haven't pulled off the heads yet to look at them. So we will see what happens!

 

[kmahl]

Timing is done. Engine still fits and has been placed in the bay. Tranny, hoses and wiring to be done this weekend. Real exciting stuff!

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

Timing is done. Engine still fits and has been placed in the bay. Tranny, hoses and wiring to be done this weekend. Real exciting stuff!

Very nice! Look forward to hearing about when she fires up again.

Unfortunately for me I'm still on the look for an engine I'm comfortable with. The other one fell thru. Spoke to my machinist today and I may just pull it, disassemble it (I like doing sh*t like that) and take it to him to do a free inspection. If I do go the rebuild route it will get Eagle rods so if I ever "upgrade" she will be ready. :nod:

 

[ReformedChevyMan]

electrical issues after swapping engines

So i have 2005 4runner with the 4.7l v8. I replaced the engine after the original engine blew. I replaced it with a 2008 engine, but the wiring harness is still original. The swap went well and I've been driving it for many months now with no mechanical issues. BUT... since the swap, all of my warning lights (check engine and all the traction control lights) are constantly on. In other words my traction control is constantly off and my check engine light is always on. If i unconnect the battery all the warnings will go away for a short period of time. Any ideas of how to fix this issue? thank you

 

[duffdog]

So i have 2005 4runner with the 4.7l v8. I replaced the engine after the original engine blew. I replaced it with a 2008 engine, but the wiring harness is still original. The swap went well and I've been driving it for many months now with no mechanical issues. BUT... since the swap, all of my warning lights (check engine and all the traction control lights) are constantly on. In other words my traction control is constantly off and my check engine light is always on. If i unconnect the battery all the warnings will go away for a short period of time. Any ideas of how to fix this issue? thank you

do the zero point calibration using Techstream via a PC.

 

[ReformedChevyMan]

Ok ill look into this when i get some time, thank you!