pulls to the left when braking... brakes are good???
- Thread starter SIKHILUXSURF
- Start date
IBallEngineer
New member
Isn't an LCA a lower, by definition?
mtbtim
Elite Member
It might be worthwhile to recheck the right rear brakes. I know you said you recently did the rear brakes but maybe somethings not right and it's not grabbing as hard as the left rear. My truck was pulling to the left and it was because my right axle seal was leaking and the gear oil finally make it into the brakes. It could be the pads aren't adjusted properly on the right rear.
SIKHILUXSURF
New member
So more problems my nightmare is getting worse now when I go over bumpy roads I get this death wobble like a jeep or a dodge truck. It wobbles supper crazy and is stressing me out....
fourfive
Senior Member
Yup, you are 100% correct! In my head I was thinking rear links put typed lca.
IBallEngineer
New member
Tony, I think you need to trade me trucks!!
SIKHILUXSURF
New member
Checked brakes and cleaned them again. No issues there.
So I took it to Firestone for my lifetime alignment. And they said the left tie rod has a ton of play. Comparing it to the last alignment after the new bushings and lbj's the toe on the driver side was super off again. But the caster and sai look even again even though sai is off.
So I took it to Firestone for my lifetime alignment. And they said the left tie rod has a ton of play. Comparing it to the last alignment after the new bushings and lbj's the toe on the driver side was super off again. But the caster and sai look even again even though sai is off.
SIKHILUXSURF
New member
So I am back to this thread again. The rack and new tie rods all all Oem have been swapped in and re-aligned again. But the problem is still there. Now it is pulling right when I brake and I need to correct left. I'm taking that the lca bushings that were swapped in to the front from whiteline are at fault. Those are the only new pieces we swapped out before this mess happened. I'm just so upset and drained by this whole experience. I have ordered brand new Oem lcas online. I am just going to swap the current lcas out and cut my losses it is the only thing I can think of that is creating this issue.
IBallEngineer
New member
Not all aftermarket items are an improvement. Still, not to :deadhorse: , but are your REAR lower arm bushings solid? By the way I saw you going east on the 10 last week, do you work in Pomona?
:focus:
SIKHILUXSURF
New member
Unfortunately in this case these lca bushings were supposed to be an improvement over originals but became a nightmare. My rear lcas are solid on one side and heim jointed on the opposite side.
I work in Pomona 5 days a week so I commute on the 10
Before you tear everything down check your cam adjusters. A lot of alignment shops just adjust tie rods, this can lead to pulling one side or the other. Were your cam adjusters marked when taken out? A wobble could be rack or rack bushing related if all other parts are good. How's your wheel bearings? How are your tires wearing? If one caliper is not releasing that can lead to pulling as well. Were your brake pads wearing evenly before you replaced them
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SIKHILUXSURF
New member
I replaced recently the front wheel bearings and seals as well as recently the lower balljoints, cam bolts and adjusters all Oem parts and whiteline poly lca bushings and this is when the pulling started to happen. Yesterday the rack and otrs with Oem rack and parts and new poly rack bushings I am suspecting the lca bushings since those are the only parts that could create that issue.
Sounds like you have been busy, and spent some $ as well. From my experience I replaced most of what you did with exception of wheel bearings and OEM LCA bushings. I had a pull to left pretty significant when steering wheel wasn't held. Come to find out the alignment shop didn't adjust cams. Many shops don't understand our rigs and just send u out the door adjusting tie rods. Hard to pinpoint when so many parts replaced at once. Did you torque wheel bearings properly? Did any of the steering parts help?
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
This is very true. The term they use is "set the toe and let it go" This is why I make sure to get a print out of the alignment.
Also, I replaced my front wheel bearings. They can be a little tricky. Even though there is a torque value for the axle nut, it really doesn't provide any preload or anything as the bearing is just "sandwiched" in the knuckle between the hub and the CV joint. If you don't press them in right, they can be hard to turn, create drag, and cause a pull in the worst case. I know when I put mine in, they felt tight, but could still be spun a little. I wouldn't think this would be your problem but I guess it would be easy enough to check by just jacking up each wheel and making sure you can spin it by hand it can freewheel at least one revolution.
IBallEngineer
New member
Just curious what you think the "cams" do. In the alignment world they are referred to as eccentric bolts. The OP posted the alignment readings, no one could see any issue there. What adjustment do you think they need? Did you happen to see that his problem is when braking only?
SIKHILUXSURF
New member
So back to this thread the vehicle has been in the body shop for repairs and today they found something very interesting on the lower balljoints. These are Oem dealer purchased balljoints if they did not disassemble the tie rods at the bodyshop I never wou have guessed the driver side balljoints was the culprit.
Passenger side lbj...
Driver side lbj...
Look closer you see a difference?
The bore on the driver side lbj is bigger causing the tie rod to be over tightened down to the lbj so when I brake the tie rod is shifting and loose to the left tire pulls and the steering is everywhere. I am waiting for these to be replaced and test driven to verify but this would seem to be the culprit as the already broke one new tie rod today mounting it to the defective lbj. Fingers crossed I am ready to get my 4Runner back!
Passenger side lbj...
Driver side lbj...
Look closer you see a difference?
The bore on the driver side lbj is bigger causing the tie rod to be over tightened down to the lbj so when I brake the tie rod is shifting and loose to the left tire pulls and the steering is everywhere. I am waiting for these to be replaced and test driven to verify but this would seem to be the culprit as the already broke one new tie rod today mounting it to the defective lbj. Fingers crossed I am ready to get my 4Runner back!
JayRolla
New member
So back to this thread the vehicle has been in the body shop for repairs and today they found something very interesting on the lower balljoints. These are Oem dealer purchased balljoints if they did not disassemble the tie rods at the bodyshop I never wou have guessed the driver side balljoints was the culprit.
Passenger side lbj...
Driver side lbj...
Look closer you see a difference?
The bore on the driver side lbj is bigger causing the tie rod to be over tightened down to the lbj so when I brake the tie rod is shifting and loose to the left tire pulls and the steering is everywhere. I am waiting for these to be replaced and test driven to verify but this would seem to be the culprit as the already broke one new tie rod today mounting it to the defective lbj. Fingers crossed I am ready to get my 4Runner back!
The bore seems a lot larger. That's kind of e craze m crazy. I've been fighting steering issues while braking and last thing was lca bushings. Makes me want to check my lower ball joints.
jman11788
Member
I know this is old but I'm having the same issues with the LBJ. Both LBJs I have are OEM. However when I just replaced my LCA bushing with white line I busted a lbj boot removing it. I don't want to reuse the ball joint with a ripped boot so I put the old one back on temporarily till could get another one. As I put everything back together I noticed the tie rod is loose as hell in that bore causing the wheel to be VERY sloppy. Why would the bore be larger?
