Putting a hold on the build

RaginTxn84

New member
So - I should just start a build thread (have done enough with the runner), but since I don't, I'll post here.

So I posted a little bit ago that I had been experiencing some whirring sounds from the front passenger side of the runner, felt a little vibration in my pedal. Then I put it in 4x4 and it went away. When it comes out of 4wd, it comes back. Just brought it in to Toyota here in Anchorage and they tested it, and my biggest fear is their conclusion - something's gone out in the transfer case. They recommend replacing the tcase as it would be 17 hrs just to take apart the current one, then the parts to replace with labor, and then there's trusting the machining of the rebuild.

So, am I just pouring money into a new tcase naively, or would you guys replace it and go with the whole new part?
 
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I would normally go with the cheaper option. I've always been told that opening something up for repairs is more risky then a replacement.
 
I'd consider putting a used, low mileage case in. Shipping to AK I'm sure is steep, but there appear to be plenty to be had in the lower 48 for <$700. Doesn't look like these cases are failing w/ any frequency (?)

Probably comes down to how many billable hours of that labor estimate are t-case rebuild and how many are install/reinstall in the truck, (plus,of course, machine work and parts $.)
 
Exactly how did they confirm this, and what specifically failed in the transfer case to only cause vibes in 2WD? Sounds like the kind of thing they could let you hear while duplicating the issue on the lift.
 
I would normally go with the cheaper option. I've always been told that opening something up for repairs is more risky then a replacement.

Agreed

I'd consider putting a used, low mileage case in. Shipping to AK I'm sure is steep, but there appear to be plenty to be had in the lower 48 for <$700. Doesn't look like these cases are failing w/ any frequency (?)

Probably comes down to how many billable hours of that labor estimate are t-case rebuild and how many are install/reinstall in the truck, (plus,of course, machine work and parts $.)

The service rep there said she's only see one other t-case fail on a 4runner, and it was a 98. They see plenty of 4Runners up here as well - their #1 selling vehicle here in Anchorage. As for a used one - I would consider that, but I'm not there in the lower 48 to check them out - would be a little hesitant. Plus, I think i would feel more comfortable with a new one that I know I've taken care of (the price sucks horribly for a new one however).

As for a rebuild, as marco said, opening something up and repairing is risky making sure it's all back together well and correctly - she mentioned the same thing. As for the rebuild, the labor to take it all apart would be ~$1,000 (17hrs of labor) - parts, machining, rebuild, etc. would put it around $5k (that was their estimate).

Exactly how did they confirm this, and what specifically failed in the transfer case to only cause vibes in 2WD? Sounds like the kind of thing they could let you hear while duplicating the issue on the lift.

They said they don't know exactly as the sound is coming from within the t-case. I didn't even think/take the time to have them put it back on the lift and duplicate the sound - maybe I'll stop by tomorrow and see if they can do that.



On another note - she looked up the service record and did not show the 60k mile service being done, which they would have replace the t-case fluids. Dunno if that has anything to do with it, but yeah - sounds like I'm stuck with a fat bill. The suckiest part is that due to mis-communication between me and the mrs. there was no extended warranty bought (found that out today) :ybrick:
 
at 5k no one would ever rebuild........I would seriously look into finding a slightly used case from either a 4runner, FJ, or Tacoma. A lot of those models came with the VF2A transfer case. A direct swap would not be a hard job an an local shouldn't have any problem doing if for several hundred. ( I am guessing at numbers but I would but a used replacement and install around 1k ). If its 3k for a new install and 1k for used I would go used in a heart beat. As you mentioned they said they rarely fail so you shouldn't have to much concern there and if its 1/3 or 1/2 the price you could replace it 2x and be no worse off.

P.S. I would validate what they are telling you, from what you describe that the sound goes AWAY with going into 4x4 I would not think this would be likely with most failures.........Does it drive just fine?
 
Hopefully it is not the transfer case, just makes no sense why it happens only in 2WD.

I've rebuilt a NP242, swapped another one and installed slip yoke eliminator kits prior to YouTube with only a shop manual. $5,000+ is totally insane to me. If the case is the problem a previously loved unit is a no brainier. They almost never fail.
 
I would get several different opinions before letting the dealer touch it. I don't trust them at all..... I'm sure there are some 4x4 shops in AK familiar with Toyota...

Sounds more like the ADD to me. Please get another opinion.
 
Young's Gear on International has always treated me really fair and does some pretty good work. Every time I go in there they always have trannys and t-cases on the shelf, so they are no stranger to that kind of work.
 
Thank you all for your posts and replies. I'm gonna get some other opinions, and stop by Young's - just looking at parts and I can't get close to the quoted $4-5k they gave me.

Also, good point on used cases and them rarely failing. Thanks for keeping me straight.

I'll update later what I find out and end up doing
 
Is this a common issue with the 5th gen?

The front axle is a common issue in the 2010s and early 2011s. It has the same symptoms as OP is describing. Mine happened when it was colder than 10F outside. I had mine replaced under warranty. Entire axle assembly lists for $1500+labor.
 
Is this a common issue with the 5th gen?

The front axle is a common issue in the 2010s and early 2011s. It has the same symptoms as OP is describing. Mine happened when it was colder than 10F outside. I had mine replaced under warranty, entire axle assembly lists for $1500+labor.
 
The front axle is a common issue in the 2010s and early 2011s. It has the same symptoms as OP is describing. Mine happened when it was colder than 10F outside. I had mine replaced under warranty, entire axle assembly lists for $1500+labor.

There is not really one axle. There are two + the ADD + the Diff, then there is the drive shaft from the transfer case to the diff. Is this what you mean by (entire axle assembly listing for $1500). Seems like it would be more than that.

Even in 2wd, the drivers side CV axle is spinning the diff internals, but the ADD keeps the passenger side disconnected. This keeps the ring gear from spinning in the diff. Once in 4WD, the ADD engages the passenger side CV axle.

I'm leaning towards something in the diff or the ADD being the problem.

Let us know what this turns out to be.
 
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There is not really one axle. There are two + the ADD + the Diff, then there is the drive shaft from the transfer case to the diff. Is this what you mean by (entire axle assembly listing for $1500). Seems like it would be more than that.

Even in 2wd, the drivers side CV axle is spinning the diff internals, but the ADD keeps the passenger side disconnected. This keeps the ring gear from spinning in the diff. Once in 4WD, the ADD engages the passenger side CV axle.

Let us know what this turns out to be.

I speak of the axle (the full assembly mounted to the frame), not the axle shafts which contain the CVs. From my understanding there is an issue with the early carriers, with the drivers side spinning and the passenger side stationary it creates an imbalance. Later hardware fixed the issue.
 
[...]

Even in 2wd, the drivers side CV axle is spinning the diff internals, but the ADD keeps the passenger side disconnected. This keeps the ring gear from spinning in the diff. Once in 4WD, the ADD engages the passenger side CV axle.

I'm leaning towards something in the diff or the ADD being the problem.

Let us know what this turns out to be.

Forgive my ignorance, but what is the ADD (that way I sound some what intelligent when I go back to them with these questions :p )?
 
Forgive my ignorance, but what is the ADD (that way I sound some what intelligent when I go back to them with these questions :p )?

Automatic Disconnecting Differential. When you move your lever or turn the knob (whichever you have) that in turn moves the ADD. The ADD then actuates the proper selection via solenoid. So even if you have a mechanical lever it still requires a solenoid to actuate the 4WD. Here is a link if you want to learn more: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...differential-actuator-repair-replacement.html This is for a FJC but ours is the same thing.
 
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Thanks 1eng and for the link.

Dropped the 4R off at Young's - of course I didn't notice the noise as much this morning. Hopefully they can shed some more light on situation.
 

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