Question | Bilstein 5100's for leveling

[T4R_Finally]

Your shop doesn't know "level" any more than all the members who've participated in this discussion.

They'll know level when I define for them what I want - and that is for the cabin to be level - not the fender, ground to bottom. I wish both were doable at the same time but that doesn't sound like the case. We will start at .85 and go from there. If he knows that the next setting is .9 higher and that will be too far, he won't change it. However, if it needs to be redone to get it right, he will do that. We had to redo my pickup when he installed aftermarket leveling keys and realized they stiffened the torsion bars to the point it wasn't drivable. Cost me a little more in labor and I didn't end up with the look I wanted, but at least we got it right. They've leveled and/or lifted a couple vehicles for me and have done many other than mine. I have learned not to just drop the stuff off and expect to get what I want when I return.

 

[philsey]

Good plan.

 

[TEQ.FZJ]

They'll know level when I define for them what I want - and that is for the cabin to be level - not the fender, ground to bottom. I wish both were doable at the same time but that doesn't sound like the case. We will start at .85 and go from there. If he knows that the next setting is .9 higher and that will be too far, he won't change it. However, if it needs to be redone to get it right, he will do that. We had to redo my pickup when he installed aftermarket leveling keys and realized they stiffened the torsion bars to the point it wasn't drivable. Cost me a little more in labor and I didn't end up with the look I wanted, but at least we got it right. They've leveled and/or lifted a couple vehicles for me and have done many other than mine. I have learned not to just drop the stuff off and expect to get what I want when I return.

Something to think about...how much will labor be? The Bilsteins will be A LOT of work to adjust after the first install. If you're not happy at .85" they'll have to tear the front end down, disassemble the strut, move the collar, compress the whole thing and and install on the truck. Could be a few extra of hours of shop labor.

If you figure the adjustable for the front are about $200, the adjustable DIY coilover I linked earlier at $600 might make sense if they're charging you extra for the labor. While a lot more than $200, they give you infinite adjustability from 1" to 3" and can be easily adjusted anytime in the future with the spanner wrench. No need to remove the suspension, just take off the wheels and adjust the collar. The difference is minutes vs hours and virtually no tools needed.

 

[T4R_Finally]

Something to think about...how much will labor be? The Bilsteins will be A LOT of work to adjust after the first install. If you're not happy at .85" they'll have to tear the front end down, disassemble the strut, move the collar, compress the whole thing and and install on the truck. Could be a few extra of hours of shop labor.

If you figure the adjustable for the front are about $200, the adjustable DIY coilover I linked earlier at $600 might make sense if they're charging you extra for the labor. While a lot more than $200, they give you infinite adjustability from 1" to 3" and can be easily adjusted anytime in the future with the spanner wrench. No need to remove the suspension, just take off the wheels and adjust the collar. The difference is minutes vs hours and virtually no tools needed.

TEQ, appreciate the thoughts. Sounds like it's highly likely that the .85 setting is what I'm after, so I'm not counting on the need to redo anything. If I were trying to squeeze in bigger tires and there is a chance we'd need to bump it up to fit them, I'd be more concerned. And I've already ordered the shocks. Found them from a shop in SoCal on ebay that had them buy it now or best offer. I offered $350 with free shipping and they accepted and shipped them an hour later.

If I can get these fugly running boards removed and raise the front end close to an inch, I'll be happy with it even if it doesn't appear level when comparing the fender wells. Sounds like Toyota had no intention of having the fenders level when the vehicle itself is actually at true level.

 

[shaneotool]

I removed my running boards and muf flaps last week and it looks a hell of a lot better IMO. Looks like I got a 1" lift already...

 

[CentcomPete]

As mentioned earlier, I have Bilsteins x 4 with fronts at 1.75 and 1" Cornfed coil spacers in rear resulting in almost exactly 1" rake. Perfect setup for me for rear load/towing support and looks mean.

 

[T4R_Finally]

As mentioned earlier, I have Bilsteins x 4 with fronts at 1.75 and 1" Cornfed coil spacers in rear resulting in almost exactly 1" rake. Perfect setup for me for rear load/towing support and looks mean.

So, with no spacers and .85 front setting, should be a little less than 1" of rake. Which to me is better than any negative rake. I probably have a few things, like a heavy tool bag, for one, that I would like to carry around with me. Stuff that I kept in my bed box on my pickup that is just sitting in my house right now. That will probably negate some of the rake. I don't mind the rake appearance so much as I do the front fenders so close to the top of the tires as compared to the rear. Removing the boards will help with the ground clearance appearance. Sounds like no spacers and 1.75 on the front will most likely appear level from a profile view but would actually be and feel like negative rake.

 

[JFS]

I went with 5100s all around, front setting @ .85

I am pleased. Most of the time the truck appears level to me, but depending on my cargo load or how I park, I may detect a slight rise in the front or a tiny dip to the rear. I haven't measured because I'm happy with it as is.

 

[shaneotool]

As mentioned earlier, I have Bilsteins x 4 with fronts at 1.75 and 1" Cornfed coil spacers in rear resulting in almost exactly 1" rake. Perfect setup for me for rear load/towing support and looks mean.

We're gonna need pictures...

 

[lostinperiphery]

When I lifted mine, I did the fronts first, and while the rear was still stock, it definitely had a reverse rake when looking at the rockers. the fender clearance, however, was essentially even. This was using the 1.75" setting, so without a rear lift, I think you'll definitely do best with the .85" setting

 

[shaneotool]

When I lifted mine, I did the fronts first, and while the rear was still stock, it definitely had a reverse rake when looking at the rockers. the fender clearance, however, was essentially even. This was using the 1.75" setting, so without a rear lift, I think you'll definitely do best with the .85" setting

Nice job on the picture. That really illustrates the issue of trying to "level" the 4runner. Either you level the wheel wells or the frame - but you can't do both.

 

[GiGi's 1996]

When I lifted mine, I did the fronts first, and while the rear was still stock, it definitely had a reverse rake when looking at the rockers. the fender clearance, however, was essentially even. This was using the 1.75" setting, so without a rear lift, I think you'll definitely do best with the .85" setting

Awesome picture. Helps me a lot.
A couple questions tho.....
1. In your signature you say you have a 2" spacer in the rear, in the picture (in red) you say the spacer is 1.5". Which is it?
2. In your signature you say you have the Toyo Open Country A/T II tires. Are these in the picture? They look alittle stockish to me.

Thanks for clarification and help!

 

[lostinperiphery]

Awesome picture. Helps me a lot.
A couple questions tho.....
1. In your signature you say you have a 2" spacer in the rear, in the picture (in red) you say the spacer is 1.5". Which is it?
2. In your signature you say you have the Toyo Open Country A/T II tires. Are these in the picture? They look alittle stockish to me.

Thanks for clarification and help!

yeah, its 1.5" (2" was a misprint, thanks for catching it!)... the photo shows the stock dunlops, I've since replaced them with the AT2's

 

[jkdrew]

TRD Pro Reverse Rake?

Since we've established that the 5100s set at 1.75 gives a level fender look, but a slight reverse rake with regards to the rockers/frame, does that mean the TRD Pro with a 1.5" lift up front might possibly have the same problem? Especially with a load? Or just maybe to a lesser extent? As far as I know, the only thing they're changing for the back is new shocks, so there shouldn't be any change for the height of the rear.

Here's a pic from Chicago...maybe not the best, since the ground might not be completely flat under the runner, but it does look as if there is a slight reverse rake, especially when you look at the rockers.

 

[Rocco777]

1" spacer did the job.

Okay; after all the back and forth as to what's level and what's not level. I decided to go the simple/safe route and add a 1" spacer to the front only. This route also saves me from replacing the expensive XREAS system. This is a new (to me) vehicle and I just can't get myself to start tearing out parts too quickly.

I'm really happy with the end result of the $40.00 1" spacer. IMO it sits perfect. just a small amount of forward rake which levels out when putting the kids in the rear.

Thanks again for all the insight and feedback. Really liking the community on this forum.

 

[TEQ.FZJ]

^ That looks good. Seems like a 1" difference in lift between front/rear is a good compromise for leveling. I'll soon be doing a 2.5/1.5 lift.

 

[GiGi's 1996]

yeah, its 1.5" (2" was a misprint, thanks for catching it!)... the photo shows the stock dunlops, I've since replaced them with the AT2's

Thanks! I just ordered x4 Bilstein 5100's for my 4R. I am just going to wait and see how it looks and decide then if spacer in rear is needed for me. Do you happen to have a pic of your 4R with the A/T II 's? That is the next step for me. Did you choose the P265/70R17 or the LT265/70R17? I am leaning to going with the LT. The ride cannot be that much harsher than the passenger rated tires.

 

[T4R_Finally]

Actually it can be harsher. Unless you need to haul something heavy or do some serious off-roading, why go LT if you can get the same exact tire in a P? Most likely a little cheaper in a P too. LT's max out on psi between 60 and 80 lbs depending on they tire and P's are somewhere around 35psi max. You don't think the ride will be harsher? I just finally wore out the LT KO's the previous owner had on my 3rd gen. Put some P metric Goodyears on it and it's night and day difference.

I am about to put tires in my 5G and am definitely staying with P's. Have no uses or reasons to go with LT's on mine. On one website, the tire I want is $39 each less expensive for the P version vs. the LT.

 

[Canazes9]

Thanks! I just ordered x4 Bilstein 5100's for my 4R. I am just going to wait and see how it looks and decide then if spacer in rear is needed for me. Do you happen to have a pic of your 4R with the A/T II 's? That is the next step for me. Did you choose the P265/70R17 or the LT265/70R17? I am leaning to going with the LT. The ride cannot be that much harsher than the passenger rated tires.

The ride is slightly firmer w/ LT tire inflated properly to 42-46psi. Blow 'em up to 80psi and it's a different story. LT tires will have deeper tread, generally be larger (even though they are technically the same size) and will be far more resistant to cuts and punctures - particularly the side walls when aired down). You can air LT tires down much lower than equivalent passenger tires, so riding off-road the ride comfort is about even.

LT tires will be heavier. There will be a slight decrease in acceleration, a 1-2mpg decrease in gas mileage.

David

 

[T4R_Finally]

...generally be larger (even though they are technically the same size)

I think you just blew my mind... LOL

All good points and all worth it for the difference in ride, mpg, and acceleration, if you need a harder tire for hauling loads or driving where sidewall punctures could be an issue. I couldn't wait to change the P's out for LT E rated tires on my pickups. Because I use them off-road for hunting and I was towing an RV around.