Radiator/fan

...temps are above 100 outside. I was watch the “intake air temp” and the coolant temp. Intake air temp usually is around 120-130 and the. That’s when I see the higher coolant temps.


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using torque to monitor, in like and hotter conditions ,105 with 60% humidity, in central texas (air intake 135+), i can let the 4runner idle with a/c blasting ice cubes for an hour, gotta turn it down to next to lowest fan speed after 10 mins (while the old lady shops and I smog, hehe....) and engine coolant remains steady at 190-194 while slowly lowering the trans temps too.

That is why I say there is Something wrong, don't need a different type radiator, need properly working equipment is all. Let us know how that new cap does.....
 
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Would be also good to check if your cooling system can hold the recommended 12.7 psi.
You could rent that pressure tool from Autozone or Orielly for a fee. You'll get all of the fees back when you return the tool. So basically its fee to check the pressure holding capacity of your cooling system/hoses.
 
Been running the big 3-row Champion CC1998 here in phoenix for maybe four years now. Been good to me.

Imo, electric fans are inferior to the OEM fan. Check your fan clutch, replace your radiator, and you’ll be good to go
 
Removing the electric flex-a-lite fan the previous owner put in and returning my system to stock was the best decision I made.

It adds to the reliability and simplicity of a 3rd gen where I felt the electric fans took away from that in a very critical area.

The fan blades on those electric systems are so thin. I shattered one going through some mildly deep water and it slashed open my radiator. Wouldn’t haven’t happened with the stock fan.
 
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Yea i'd replace everything that's been mentioned in this thread. Also i'd pick up this Lisle funnel if you don't already have it to help burp the system. Amazon.com: Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive I was having the same issue as you where it got up 211 on the freeway when it was about 100 degrees outside with AC full blast. I replaced the fan clutch and burped the system again. Park on the incline or jack up the front end first. I did that and had the heaters on and had quite a bit of bubbles come out. After all that I did the same stretch of freeway again in about 95 degree heat and it stayed between 191-195 with AC full blast.
 
I’m grabbing a new cap after work today. I will update on everything tomorrow to see how things go.


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I’m grabbing a new cap after work today. I will update on everything tomorrow to see how things go.


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For the record I drove a lot of miles with an unpressurized cooling system and normal temps. All that cap does is prevent premature boiling if temps do run above 212f and it also keeps the radiator full.


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For the record I drove a lot of miles with an unpressurized cooling system and normal temps. All that cap does is prevent premature boiling if temps do run above 212f and it also keeps the radiator full.
Yeah, no. It is very important in the hot ambient temps he is seeing. Local hot spots in the engine will boil and cause problems, both short and long term. The only time I have seen high coolant temps was with a leaking (non-OEM, my mistake!) radiator cap, driving around Death Valley (~105*F ambient or so). Since then, even in those same temps with a good cap, no problems.

-Charlie
 
Yeah, no. It is very important in the hot ambient temps he is seeing. Local hot spots in the engine will boil and cause problems, both short and long term. The only time I have seen high coolant temps was with a leaking (non-OEM, my mistake!) radiator cap, driving around Death Valley (~105*F ambient or so). Since then, even in those same temps with a good cap, no problems.

-Charlie


That’s ok. I’m just giving my experience. I’m in south central PA and I’ve never seen my coolant temps go above 191.

He is in the desert........


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I think I jinxed my e-fan. Right after talking about how great it's been, 2 1/2 years in the bearing seems to have gone out and it's makes a ton of noise! Time to see if it's under warranty... lol.

I agree completely about the mechanical fan being much simpler and reliable, even before my fan starting acting up.
 
I haven't had issues with any fans in 30 years of Toyotas. I am sure the climate has alot to do with that western PA dosent get super hot. The OEM fans always worked great for me. Other areas of the world maybe a different story. I suspect issues in hotter climates especially if the fan clutch fails. :(

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Old thermostat....
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The jiggle valve (small little metal tab in a hole) is at 12 o'clock in that photo. Turn it 180 degrees so it's at the bottom.
 
The jiggle valve (small little metal tab in a hole) is at 12 o'clock in that photo. Turn it 180 degrees so it's at the bottom.


Installed the new thermostat from Toyota with it at the bottom. New coolant from Toyota and a new lower radiator hose.


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That old one didn't look like a OEM one and the jiggle valve was in the wrong spot. Crazy how big of difference the direction of the jiggle valve can make.
 
Removing the electric flex-a-lite fan the previous owner put in and returning my system to stock was the best decision I made.

It adds to the reliability and simplicity of a 3rd gen where I felt the electric fans took away from that in a very critical area.

The fan blades on those electric systems are so thin. I shattered one going through some mildly deep water and it slashed open my radiator. Wouldn’t haven’t happened with the stock fan.

This actually happened to my buddy with the stock fan on our last wheeling trip and I had to drive 45 minutes to get him a new radiator at the closest parts store.. luckily they had one radiator in stock.
 
This actually happened to my buddy with the stock fan on our last wheeling trip and I had to drive 45 minutes to get him a new radiator at the closest parts store.. luckily they had one radiator in stock.

A few people put e-fans in just because of this issue. An e-fan you can cut power to if a switch is wired in. You can't turn off the mechanical fan.
 

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