Radiators - Koyo vs The REST

My apologies if I missed it, but is there a radiator option for us that does not include an incorporated transmission cooler?

For those who bypass, it would seemingly make sense to put that unused space to use by adding more coolant capacity, greater surface area making for more effective cooling...
 
I dont know of one without a bottom line. It doesnt truly take up that much space. But anothermember broke this down...its not even close to the same cooling capacity to use just an aux cooler...hence why many here say its advisable to do it in line. Hell I think B&M even mentions it
 
I seem to recall that the bottom 3 or so inches is the transmission cooler.

Quite of few over the years have bypassed with beneficial results. I did so a couple months back and look forward to the summer to see how it performs. Thus far in the cooler months, pretty impressive. It's a 20,500 BTU cooler so somewhat larger than the more popular coolers.
 
The way I approached this was...new welded aluminum radiator has no crappy brass to plastic weak points to corrode and lead to the milkshake. Plus the OEM one lasted over a decade and I just put the new one in last year for my 02. So...what's wrong with having two coolers?

I'm not a car guru by any means which is why I enjoy the help from forums, but before the aux cooler my granny temps got over 250 in the mountains, especially grinding up steeper rocky roads. Never gone over 180 with it in line with the new radar. If you dont off road you could be fine. Also keep in mind that having it in line makes it cool off even faster at high speeds bc the increased surface area and winds. So after steep stuff if theres a highway to quickly cool it off...even better

Theres no right or wrong IMO, just what's worth it for your situation. My 02 has about 163k and so far I feel confident in the longevity of this setup. Also I put a magnefine filter inline with the setup on the way back into the tranny
 
Forgot to mention...the crappy part is figuring out how much extra fluid your lines and cooler takes then remembering that
 
I hear ya and while I was going to do inline, I later decided to bypass with a larger unit than I had originally planned.

As mentioned in my build thread, I can easily incorporate the factory cooler if desired later. With realtime ATF temps, I will monitor, and view this as an experiment of sorts...

Thus far, my ATF has seen much lower average and peak temps. The high is in the low 170s, and I purposely left OD on to reach that temp (was curious how high it would go). The average or vast majority of driving has seen temps in the 130 to 150 range.

I of course realize that higher ambient temps, along high load, low speed situations will tax it to where it can see undesirable temps. However, I'm feeling pretty convinced that a little fan will do the trick and I had already did a test fit, mock-up during the install.

iOwmao8.jpg


From the accounts of others, and through what little experience I have so far, I believe the cooler I installed, bypassed, with select use of OD, will keep temps in a happy zone the vast majority of the time...
 
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I hear ya and while I was going to do inline, I later decided to bypass with a larger unit than I had originally planned.

As mentioned in my build thread, I can easily incorporate the factory cooler if desired later. With realtime ATF temps, I will monitor, and view this as an experiment of sorts...

Thus far, my ATF has seen much lower average and peak temps. The high is in the low 170s, and I purposely left OD on to reach that temp (was curious how high it would go). The average or vast majority of driving has seen temps in the 130 to 150 range.

I of course realize that higher ambient temps, along high load, low speed situations will tax it to where it can see undesirable temps. However, I'm feeling pretty convinced that a little fan will do the trick and I had already did a test fit, mock-up during the install.

iOwmao8.jpg


From the accounts of others, and through what little experience I have so far, I believe the cooler I installed, bypassed, with select use of OD, will keep temps in a happy zone the vast majority of the time...


You mention with the select use of OD (Over Drive?) ...Why? Does OD increase your ATF temps? If I've a daily driver and do the by-pass would that limit me in my use of OD?
 
You mention with the select use of OD (Over Drive?) ...Why? Does OD increase your ATF temps? If I've a daily driver and do the by-pass would that limit me in my use of OD?

Yes, my use of the acronym OD was for over drive. When using OD, engine RPMs are lower in certain driving situations, often at the expense of transmission temps due to the torque converter (TC) slipping more. That creates more heat... That's my limited, brief understanding as I get two little ones ready for school!

I learned, from reading much here, that selective use of OD is pretty popular for good reason. I began turning OD off before inclines last year after a trip to Tahoe with my family where we saw ATF temps of 230 flying up to the summit around 70 mph (factory tranny cooler). Four people in the 4Runner, with plenty of gear, but not crazy weight, and it was in Feb with ambient temps in the 40s as I recall. The OD button is your friend, regardless of what is cooling your ATF... A good thread from Tim.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/232406-overdrive-off-=-transmission-temp-drop.html

My goal is to have my transmission see overall lower average temps and lower peaks. I would like for 200 to be the max. In on-road situations, not towing, that should be doable with my bypass install of this cooler (B&M 70266). When using OD up hills I have not yet hit 160, in cooler months. We shall see. A fan is in the future for sure because high load, low speed scenarios (less air flow) raise ATF temps, regardless of what is cooling the fluid, if inline or bypassed, or stock... This is the fan that I will likely get and mocked-up above. The prop would need to be flipped so it pushes, as a helpful member here has done with success.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3T7IJU/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=AMRL53VKSDQCF&psc=1

Served as a reminder, and I just ordered it! 22 bucks. Actually with some Amazon rewards applied, about 18 dollars. Will have it Friday...
 
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My apologies if I missed it, but is there a radiator option for us that does not include an incorporated transmission cooler?

For those who bypass, it would seemingly make sense to put that unused space to use by adding more coolant capacity, greater surface area making for more effective cooling...

I think the manual transmission radiator doesn't have this. But I heard they arent sold anymore. This all "what I heard". I have both a manual and auto 4runner so I can check tonight.
 
I think the manual transmission radiator doesn't have this. But I heard they arent sold anymore. This all "what I heard". I have both a manual and auto 4runner so I can check tonight.

Wow, thanks Mark! If not, I'd be curious if the manual radiator is simply not as tall due to the bottom few inches not being needed for a tranny cooler, or if the same size, it is bigger by making use of that extra space.

I suppose one way to know is to find-out the coolant capacity of each system. If the same or different would be telling... Thanks again.
 
Anybody tell me why I shouldn't just order one of these? I've an 2002. Says it fits..are these the real deal ones?

I dont know if they are the oem Japanese. My original radiator lasted 14 years and the only reason I replaced it was because the stem to the coolant reservoir broke (murphy's law). I replaced mine with 16410-AZ011 and it's been fine for the last 4years or so.
 
I dont know if they are the oem Japanese. My original radiator lasted 14 years and the only reason I replaced it was because the stem to the coolant reservoir broke (murphy's law). I replaced mine with 16410-AZ011 and it's been fine for the last 4years or so.

Well....here’s hoping that Murphy’s law don’t catch me. I’m going on 17 years with mine. <yikes!>. Why I’m looking for a replacement.
 
Wow, thanks Mark! If not, I'd be curious if the manual radiator is simply not as tall due to the bottom few inches not being needed for a tranny cooler, or if the same size, it is bigger by making use of that extra space.

I suppose one way to know is to find-out the coolant capacity of each system. If the same or different would be telling... Thanks again.

I got home late and it's snowing but I had a quick look. They are both the same size. So the question is, is there wasted unused space in the manual version or does it have more cooling capacity for the engine?
 
I got home late and it's snowing but I had a quick look. They are both the same size. So the question is, is there wasted unused space in the manual version or does it have more cooling capacity for the engine?

Understood, no worries. Also, just check if there are fittings are on the bottom for the ATF plumbing. If so, they likely used the same unit and hopefully capped those ports.
 
Just to let you guys know. The Champion all Allumium is better than OEM. I’ve had it for 2 years and temps are around 10° cooler than factory which to me is a huge plus. When it’s 100° out it still doesn’t perform more sluggish cause you don’t hear the stupid clutch fan at slow speeds in traffic. It also looks way more Rad!
 
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I will be replacing my radiator in the coming months. Just curious if you're still satisfied with this and if you've had any issues?
I appreciate the insight, just trying too figure it which direction to go.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Still working great. Very happy with it.
 
The link in page 7 I posted still works. It looks like it has went up some since I purchased mine though.

And one more time - because I have to always ask - The all AL champion is a direct fit. Tranmission cooler and all. Nothing special I have to do but drain the coolant fluid pop a few hoses off, install this one, reinstall the hoses, fill it back up with coolant...Not looking for a crazy project. Just need a good radiator replacment.
 

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