re-gearing next month a few ?s

Forrrrest

Forrrrest

New member
Next month I will be adding 35's and re gearing about the same time. So have a few questions for those that have already changed their gear ratio.

Will 4.88's be sufficient for 35's?
who carries the most durable but best price sets?
Each ring and pinion needs an installation kit right??

Also im looking at the diff builder package from marlin crawler that comes with the spartan locker. I have a few buddies with that locker and they all have been quite pleased with it. Any reviews from you fellas?? Soon the runner WILL NOT be my daily driver so not worried about locking up the rear.

I'll be in a cummins soon hahahaha can't wait for my 12'v
 
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4.88 with 35s will be stockish ratio.
Nitro gears are known to be better than all other brands.
master install kit is needed for both front and rear diff.
best locker is selectable locker, e-lock or air lock. For ifs front end locker is iffy im either doing arb or open, not a fan of auto lockers myself.
 
t4r4life said:
4.88 with 35s will be stockish ratio.
Nitro gears are known to be better than all other brands.
master install kit is needed for both front and rear diff.
best locker is selectable locker, e-lock or air lock. For ifs front end locker is iffy im either doing arb or open, not a fan of auto lockers myself.
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right on thats what i figured. i have 4.10s stock. I had an e-locker i was going to retrofit but times got tough and had to get rid of it over the summer. So for now i will go with the auto locker. If i even decide to go that route and get a locker. SOO looking at about 1000 in parts. I was looking at the yukon set from marlin about 250 for gears and 250 for set up kit. Front will stay open untill it has a solid axle under it!
 
Yukon is also know for having great quality for the price. I know someone that has a 500+ hp cummins in a 3500 he tuisted his drive shaft and broke 3rd gear but his Yukon diff is still going strong
 
What are you running? I'm on my phone, and can't see your sig. The 3.4?
I'm running 4.88 and 35, with the 3.4 and it's fine.
Even when I was running 37s it was fine.

May I also recommend ECGS. It's pricey, but worth it. 5 year warranty, professional setup, ect.
 
Doc2012 said:
What are you running? I'm on my phone, and can't see your sig. The 3.4?
I'm running 4.88 and 35, with the 3.4 and it's fine.
Even when I was running 37s it was fine.

May I also recommend ECGS. It's pricey, but worth it. 5 year warranty, professional setup, ect.
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Doc I have a 3.4 5spd. I'm getting either the km2s or hankook dynapros. Havent exactly decided yet. I have 1-1200 max to spend on my diferentials
 
Forrrrest said:
Doc I have a 3.4 5spd. I'm getting either the km2s or hankook dynapros. Havent exactly decided yet. I have 1-1200 max to spend on my diferentials
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Look up East Coast Gear Supply.

You can get a 4.88 4Runner diff for 635. Add an ARB air locker, and it's 1560, with ABS.

Now, that's the rear diff. Pricey, but worth it. They take care of thier customers.

If you wanted to do both diffs, then leave out the ARB, and it'll be about 1300. 100 more than you're "allowed" to spend, but still worth it.
 
For what its worth i did 4.88's and I'm sitting on 285/75's. At 70 mph I run right at 2000/2100 rpms. A friend of mine has a 4th gen and did 4.55's and he is running 35's and wishes he would have gone to the 4.88's.

I went with nitro gears, they came highly recommended, and I could order them through the shop that did the gear and locker work for me. Ive heard good things about the spartan locker. I'm pretty sure [MENTION=88391]NateMob[/MENTION] has some experience with the spartan.

There is a break in period with the new gears, to make sure they don't get over heated and wear in properly. After 500 miles you'll want to drain the diff fluid and replace. There will be shavings from the break in.
 
Forrrrest said:
Next month I will be adding 35's and re gearing about the same time. So have a few questions for those that have already changed their gear ratio.

Will 4.88's be sufficient for 35's?
who carries the most durable but best price sets?
Each ring and pinion needs an installation kit right??

Also im looking at the diff builder package from marlin crawler that comes with the spartan locker. I have a few buddies with that locker and they all have been quite pleased with it. Any reviews from you fellas?? Soon the runner WILL NOT be my daily driver so not worried about locking up the rear.

I'll be in a cummins soon hahahaha can't wait for my 12'v
Click to expand...
are you building it as a dedicated wheeler? no more daily street use?

if so, you may consider going with a bit lower gears. it will work better offroad.

just "back to stock" is fine for street use, but once you get offroad, you'll find its often not low enough.
 
I also recommend ECGS. Get your diff's professionally built, and just swap them in. That's what I did. Also, I would recommend 5.29's with 35's (if you have an auto trans anyway). I have them, and they are perfect. Definitely not over-geared, and RPM's are fine on the highway.

Here's a thread I started when I was asking questions about regearing. Hopefully it will help you too.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/137448-bandit-runner-wants-re-gear-his-diffs.html
 
As stated above I think the 4.88s will be fine, but since you said it's not going to be your DD does that mean it will be a trailer queen or will you drive to and from the trail?

If you are going to trailer it I'd do 5.29s since it's all about your final drive ratio off road. 5.29 driving for 2 or 4 hours to get to a trail, wheel, then drive home, could be a long drive.

But that also depends if you are going to keep the single transfer case or add in a reduction case.

I have the 4.88 with 285s and my RPMs are a little closer to 2500 RPM on the Freeway @ around 70.

p.s. I'm in Walnut Creek and if you decide to SAS I would love to watch and or help out.
 
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4.88 with 35's is actually slightly shorter gearing than stock (a.k.a slightly higher rpm at a given speed). This would be the ideal setup for a 5-speed that is also highway driven.

If you are going to mainly trailer your 4runner and have limited highway time, the deeper the gear, the better IMO. Given that it's just a wheeler, I would go 5.29
 
Well as of now I am saving up for a diesel to tow with so for now she will be mostly a part time driver to and from trails/camping and hunting rig. I think 4.88s will be the sweet spot. A reduction box will come but that wont be untill im journeyed out at work. By that time I will hopefully have a waggy 44 sitting underneath the front end.

As far as buying pre-built diffs and setting them up myself. Going by myself seems to be the cheaper route. I will have to check out east coast gear supply and see their prices. I'm aware of the break in period and myself and a buddy whos is a meticulous mechanic will be building them. Maybe I'll snag a Spartan locker just too see if I like it.

Tons of plans just not enough money hahaha
Thanks [MENTION=47731]TheeMikeB[/MENTION] [MENTION=55891]Bandit Runner[/MENTION] [MENTION=84120]nevada[/MENTION]
 
TheeMikeB said:
@Forrest don't forget to keep you eyes open for deals on other sites. I happen to come across this the other day on Pirate

5.29 gears f/r with ARB
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thanks for the that, 1800 is a little to steep for f/r. I have a nice tax return coming but 2500 is going to a 2010 klx250s. Hell ya when i SAS the more the merrier! It'll be a project and going to take sometime before i have the funds accuired. I work at the stealership there i walnut creek and am surprised i havent seen your runner around yet. Hmmmm I'd really like to get an ARB tho....
 
1800 is the CHEAP. I got my F/R shipped to me for 1975. JUMP on that offer man. You'll be locked in the rear, and it'll be sooooooo worth it. Lol.
 
Forrrrest said:
thanks for the that, 1800 is a little to steep for f/r. I have a nice tax return coming but 2500 is going to a 2010 klx250s. Hell ya when i SAS the more the merrier! It'll be a project and going to take sometime before i have the funds accuired. I work at the stealership there i walnut creek and am surprised i havent seen your runner around yet. Hmmmm I'd really like to get an ARB tho....
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Which dealer? I work downtown WC too but rarely drive my runner as it's not my DD.
 
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Forrrrest said:
A reduction box will come but that wont be untill im journeyed out at work. By that time I will hopefully have a waggy 44 sitting underneath the front end.
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Well... In that case I say skip the gears, save your cash, and just go for the crawl box. Low gears, and you can mob the highway...
[MENTION=9139]steezemcqueen[/MENTION] will vouch ha
 
t4r4life said:
damn that's a good ass deal, so tempted right now.
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I thought so, and local. No shipping, and you could prob offload your stockers online since you don't need to do a core. Better hurry. If you want, someone is already asking about the front.
 
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