jgue467
Senior Member
The end of that post is about brakes. How do those affect your decision to return them on principle? Just curious, I don't really care...... :cowboy:
Real Hi/Lo Beam LED bulb! AWESOME!
- Thread starter BamaDrewski
- Start date
The end of that post is about brakes. How do those affect your decision to return them on principle? Just curious, I don't really care...... :cowboy:
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Thanks for the heads up Tony! So you determined that they are fake chips? That's a bummer. How did they compare to the Aukee's? You said the Hikaris had a better cutoff, which is sort of my pet peeve with the OEDROs.
Not sure what to try next
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4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
With all this discussion of beam pattern and cutoff, let me illustrate what I'm talking about.
First photo is from my 4Runner with the halogen bulbs. You can see the hotspot of the beam, the cutoff, and some light bleeding up above the cutoff:
This amount of light bleeding up above the cutoff is not too bad, because the overall brightness level is low.
But look at what happens when you put very bright LED's in place of the halogens (photo courtesy of OP on this thread):
The amount of light in the hotspot is insane, but so is the amount of light bleeding up above the cutoff. See how the whole wall is lit up? That's what the drivers in front of you see as well. Some may choose to ignore it, being content with how bright the lights are, but that's the part that's bothering me.
For comparison, as unfair as it is, here is a photo of the light pattern on my HID retrofit project in a Chrysler minivan:
The light is bright and uniform, with no light bleedthrough. If our trucks didn't look bugeyed with projectors (IMO), I'd be doing a retrofit right about now.
First photo is from my 4Runner with the halogen bulbs. You can see the hotspot of the beam, the cutoff, and some light bleeding up above the cutoff:
This amount of light bleeding up above the cutoff is not too bad, because the overall brightness level is low.
But look at what happens when you put very bright LED's in place of the halogens (photo courtesy of OP on this thread):
The amount of light in the hotspot is insane, but so is the amount of light bleeding up above the cutoff. See how the whole wall is lit up? That's what the drivers in front of you see as well. Some may choose to ignore it, being content with how bright the lights are, but that's the part that's bothering me.
For comparison, as unfair as it is, here is a photo of the light pattern on my HID retrofit project in a Chrysler minivan:
The light is bright and uniform, with no light bleedthrough. If our trucks didn't look bugeyed with projectors (IMO), I'd be doing a retrofit right about now.
TonyB66
New member
The end of that post (#492), as in the last paragraph, starting with "Also, FWIW,..." It seems that you went to the end of the thread...
Thanks for the heads up Tony! So you determined that they are fake chips? That's a bummer. How did they compare to the Aukee's? You said the Hikaris had a better cutoff, which is sort of my pet peeve with the OEDROs.
Not sure what to try next
A bit of a summary of the findings and my position:
After much reading I had decided that I wanted LUMILEDS (parted from Philips several years back) chips for my headlights. And, since Hikari (seller) claims such, coupled with fantastic reviews, I placed an order a little over a week ago when they were discounted at $72.
Upon receipt I noticed that the chips did not look like the ones referenced in the owner's manual or this page, namely they had no "LUMILEDS" printed. I contacted support and received a prompt response that sometimes the chips don't have such a mark, but they are indeed genuine.
These LUMILED chips are claimed to be the LUXEON Z ES line. Those offerings can be found here:
https://www.lumileds.com/products/high-power-leds/luxeon-z-es
There are no LUXEON Z ES at 6000K, yet these are noted to be that color. Strange. Support said that they measured them at 6450K, which of course is much closer to 6500K.
This prompted me to contact LUMILEDS directly. After phone calls and several emails spanning about a week, LUMILEDS informed me today that there is no affiliation with this seller and that they are contacting Amazon immediately as the seller is wrongly using the LUMILEDS brand and logo.
While I don't doubt these are fine bulbs and my short time with them left me impressed (measured output and cut-off), I find the misrepresentation to be very unacceptable. These are seemingly either knock-offs or if genuine, the LUMILED's supply chain has been compromised. While I realize some might not care, if I were to keep them, I would find that to be tacit approval of such conduct.
Given my selected career, it's a very easy decision. To your question, they have the best or most distinctive demarcation line of the three I recently tried, and one from long ago (forgot the name). The output in lux as measured on the app that I use, these Hikari's delivered the best results or highest average output or readings. As I shared earlier, if not for the shenanigans, I'd be keeping them. I just have a hard line on such stuff...
I have a good line of communication open with LUMILEDS and in closing with them I'm inquiring about a trusted source or seller of their products. I'm not adverse to going-back to my 20 buck halogens for now, and checking back later on the continued progress in this space...
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Gotta love those hid's pattern, what my Audi looks like would love that on Runner without the somewhat bug eye look.
NJCatalana
New member
Tossed mine in last night, got them for $23
It was still a bit dark this morning on the way to work, but I didnt have anyone flash their brights at me and they didnt seem to be hitting the interiors. I'll see how they do on the way home
No "brights " indicator for me
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It was still a bit dark this morning on the way to work, but I didnt have anyone flash their brights at me and they didnt seem to be hitting the interiors. I'll see how they do on the way home
No "brights " indicator for me
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
If you’re looking for bright, white light, you guys should check out these halogens. I’ve been running them for over a year now and they are fantastic. There is not a drop of blue anywhere in their output.
I know I have a 4thGen (reflector housing), but the output can’t be that dissimilar.
Philips 9006 X-tremeVision Upgrade...B00U1OLM1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HHbeCbQYS5HJ7
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know I have a 4thGen (reflector housing), but the output can’t be that dissimilar.
Philips 9006 X-tremeVision Upgrade...B00U1OLM1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HHbeCbQYS5HJ7
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jgue467
Senior Member
Those are covered in several of the writeups in this thread - none rate them better than LEDs. I've had them too, they burn out too soon for their relative high cost.
On the other hand, these oEDros haven't been time tested but they are brighter, whiter (IMO) than xtreme visions and Ultras, but to each their own. Luck. :cowboy:
Ok, I installed mine after work and took it for a drive. No one fleshed me...yet.
Question: My rig doesn’t have bulb boots so I just installed them and called them good. That ok? Also, do they spin and lock in? Couldn’t get mine to spin so they wire clips are holding them in. Pretty snug but should I be worried about water splash getting inside?
Question: My rig doesn’t have bulb boots so I just installed them and called them good. That ok? Also, do they spin and lock in? Couldn’t get mine to spin so they wire clips are holding them in. Pretty snug but should I be worried about water splash getting inside?
Collkid
New member
No, I don't think they screw in. They are held by the little clip and the screw.
You don't have the rubber dust boot on your original headlights?
I would think about trying to find some.
StreetCreeper
New member
I beliveve the bulbs only fit one way. There are three tabs on the bulb housing that need to be aligned for the bulb to drop down and seat properly. Only then can you close the swinging clip all the way. So if the metal clip is closed properly you should be good I think. These bulbs do not screw or twist.
That’s what I figured. The wires went over them perfectly and snapped in place. They get really hot so I’m kind of glad I don’t have the rubber boots to prevent any air going in to cool them, but should I be worried about any water getting in?
96RedRunner
Senior Member
I posted this earlier in thread.
The O-rings are spares! The silver keyed part of bulb is removable,
O-rings are on blue part of bulb, O-rings provide friction to keep from rotating.
You can rotate blue part of bulb to better align beam pattern.
The heat sink (blue part) does get hot, I left my boots off to not interfere with heat dissipation.
So far no moisture or dust has gotten into headlight bucket.
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NJCatalana
New member
I ended up taking them out. Felt like "that guy" the whole way home, wayyy too bright. Maybe I got a crappy set
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Did you align the beam pattern by rotating blue part?
Made a big difference for me.
I noticed they spun when I installed them and wondered why. Now I know! Thank you. I'll adjust the beams tonight.
^^^ this.. So I got new aftermarket headlight assembly which are still glass like OEM and I'm still messing with the alignment.
I need to post better pics without my Baja Designs Squadron Wide Cornering Amber (I use them as fog lights
)Also my driveway is at an angle so don't go off these pics.
What I can tell you is that my old LEDs, I get flashed every day and I haven't been flashed at all with this set.
When I am behind someone, I think it's actually aimed down to where I don't see the headrest or anything inside the car... Most of the light is either around their bumper or wheel.. Which sometimes I think it's too low but I'm totally fine with the amount of light/distance it throws so I will keep this.
I took a screenshot from another thread I forgot where I got it from on how to adjust the headlights. Pretty easy with a Philips screw driver and a 10mm socket
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