Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen)
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
Drcoffee
Senior Member
This may be of interest from another thread:
"Its been a while since I worked at the dealer, but when I was there we replaced axle seals on almost every Sequoia and 4runner in our area. The inner seal would leak and the rear shoes would become saturated in gear oil. Worst I have seen was a locked up wheel because of the brakes swelling up due to saturated linings. Finally Tech support started helping us out a little by asking us not to install new seals flush against the inner axle housing. We were told the seal itself was not at fault, but the metal ring which resides behind the ABS ring was not properly placed on the axle itself. Engineering flaw. The outer ring on the axle is what the seal rides against. We would apply a light coat of white lithum grease to the axle ring and reinstall the axle into the housing then spin the axle one or two times. Then carefully removing the axle you could see where the seal had been riding on the axle ring, if at all. We would take a measurement with a dial caliper of where the seal was originally and where it needed to be. Removed the old seal and replaced the new one further forward from the old seal by the measurment taken. Sounds like a pain and it was, hopefully they have modified the seal to correct the problem, but if not try to do this if your truck is out of warranty."
Rear axel seal is leaking... 3rd gen 4runner - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums
I guess I'll be doing this next weekend because after 2 weeks, I'm seeing gear oil on the ABS ring again. The housing isn't full of oil so it must be spraying off the axle shaft from a minor leak. I sure wish I had read that 2 weeks ago.
EDIT:
3/15/2012 I had some free time today to redo the axle seals and figured I'd add a picture on the topic of seal depth. When I installed the Toyota seals all the way into the pocket as you would expect, after only 300 miles they had a slight leak which meant they needed to be redone. If you look at the picture you can see a polished ring just beyond the bevel. That is where the seal was riding. So with any wobble or bump, the seal let a little lube get by. So when I installed the new seals I set them out by 2mm and used a block of wood to seat them. The block worked as the seal seating tool to let me hammer them in without going too deep or damaging them and set it right where I needed it.
possible-solution-leaking-axle-seals
:hatsoff:
"Its been a while since I worked at the dealer, but when I was there we replaced axle seals on almost every Sequoia and 4runner in our area. The inner seal would leak and the rear shoes would become saturated in gear oil. Worst I have seen was a locked up wheel because of the brakes swelling up due to saturated linings. Finally Tech support started helping us out a little by asking us not to install new seals flush against the inner axle housing. We were told the seal itself was not at fault, but the metal ring which resides behind the ABS ring was not properly placed on the axle itself. Engineering flaw. The outer ring on the axle is what the seal rides against. We would apply a light coat of white lithum grease to the axle ring and reinstall the axle into the housing then spin the axle one or two times. Then carefully removing the axle you could see where the seal had been riding on the axle ring, if at all. We would take a measurement with a dial caliper of where the seal was originally and where it needed to be. Removed the old seal and replaced the new one further forward from the old seal by the measurment taken. Sounds like a pain and it was, hopefully they have modified the seal to correct the problem, but if not try to do this if your truck is out of warranty."
Rear axel seal is leaking... 3rd gen 4runner - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums
I guess I'll be doing this next weekend because after 2 weeks, I'm seeing gear oil on the ABS ring again. The housing isn't full of oil so it must be spraying off the axle shaft from a minor leak. I sure wish I had read that 2 weeks ago.
EDIT:
3/15/2012 I had some free time today to redo the axle seals and figured I'd add a picture on the topic of seal depth. When I installed the Toyota seals all the way into the pocket as you would expect, after only 300 miles they had a slight leak which meant they needed to be redone. If you look at the picture you can see a polished ring just beyond the bevel. That is where the seal was riding. So with any wobble or bump, the seal let a little lube get by. So when I installed the new seals I set them out by 2mm and used a block of wood to seat them. The block worked as the seal seating tool to let me hammer them in without going too deep or damaging them and set it right where I needed it.
possible-solution-leaking-axle-seals
:hatsoff:
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BigFishAllDay;
I'm having issue removing the abs sensor I saw the two slot that you talk about using a flat head screw driver to pop it out. When I try it, it never move instead i hear the plastic about to break so i stop at the point. Is there any other way to removed the abs sensors or should I continue if it break on me.
Thx.
I'm having issue removing the abs sensor I saw the two slot that you talk about using a flat head screw driver to pop it out. When I try it, it never move instead i hear the plastic about to break so i stop at the point. Is there any other way to removed the abs sensors or should I continue if it break on me.
Thx.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Leaving the ABS sensors in will not prevent you from installing the new axle seals. Removing the sensors just makes it easier to install the new axle seals.
I'd say that if they're giving you that much trouble, just leave them in place and take your time working the new seals in. It's not worth breaking one just to make the job a little easier, those things are pricey.
I've noticed when I've pulled them out that it seems like there is suction on them, because sometimes I'll get one started and the screwdriver will pop out of the slot and the the sensor will get sucked back into the axle.
I'd say that if they're giving you that much trouble, just leave them in place and take your time working the new seals in. It's not worth breaking one just to make the job a little easier, those things are pricey.
I've noticed when I've pulled them out that it seems like there is suction on them, because sometimes I'll get one started and the screwdriver will pop out of the slot and the the sensor will get sucked back into the axle.
Drcoffee
Senior Member
It gets a little rusty above the sensor o-ring which made my passenger side tough to remove. As you work the screwdriver under the flange tap the sensor with a plastic mallet in all directions to wobble it out. It will free up but it takes a little time so you don't break the mounting flange. Also, spray some WD40 at the base of the sensor to lube the o-ring. When you reinstall it, smear a little silcone grease on the sensor so it'll come out easier next time. And there will be a next time. These frickin axle seals suck.
The Sensor costs about $140 at rockauto.com Ouch!
BigFishAllDay
New member
DrCoffee,
I know you've had a very hard time with this, but the fact that it's been a hard job for you does not mean it's a hard job for everyone.
Hundreds of people have used this write-up and gotten this done with no issues. Why is it that you are having so many problems?
1. You have an incompetent shop pressing on your parts.
2. You are overthinking it.
Please don't give people bad advice on this topic (like advising someone to use a mallet to "tap out" & remove, at the risk of damaging, a stubborn part that doesn't have to be removed in the first place). And saying with certainty "there will be a next time".... How do you know that? If the job is done right, there will likely NOT be a next time.
Also, don't believe everything you read on the internet (regarding your post above with the quote from Yotatech...that guy sounds like you... overthinking things).
Maybe you should just surrender your pride and take your truck to a competent mechanic.
I know you've had a very hard time with this, but the fact that it's been a hard job for you does not mean it's a hard job for everyone.
Hundreds of people have used this write-up and gotten this done with no issues. Why is it that you are having so many problems?
1. You have an incompetent shop pressing on your parts.
2. You are overthinking it.
Please don't give people bad advice on this topic (like advising someone to use a mallet to "tap out" & remove, at the risk of damaging, a stubborn part that doesn't have to be removed in the first place). And saying with certainty "there will be a next time".... How do you know that? If the job is done right, there will likely NOT be a next time.
Also, don't believe everything you read on the internet (regarding your post above with the quote from Yotatech...that guy sounds like you... overthinking things).
Maybe you should just surrender your pride and take your truck to a competent mechanic.
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BigFishAllDay,
Thanks man, I will just leave them in cause I'm afraid I might break it, I notice that you are not using any grease(diff grease)to press it back in instead you just use gear oil, other web site uses the diff. grease to press back in. I original have regular gear oil and just switch to synthetic oil over the summer 2011. My truck does not have a leak oil seal the reason I did this job was I have a bad wheel bearing so I'm changing both out. You mention on the OP that synthetic gear oil might be one of the reason oil seal failed should I stay way from the synthetic oil what is your opinion on that. Again thanks for your input I appreciate it.
BigFishAllDay
New member
diff grease = gear oil, so I'm pretty sure the other sources you're looking at are talking about gear oil as well, but just calling it "diff. grease".
RE Synthetic Gear Oil, the only time that I would avoid it is on a 4Runner that has high mileage seals and was previously running conventional gear oil.
After I changed my rear axle seals on the '97, I re-filled it with Redline Synthetic 75w-90 and that is what is in it to this day. I'm also running Redline synthetic in the rear end of my '01 4Runner with no problems whatsoever. I think the synthetic will work fine for you, especially since you have new seals in there.
RE Synthetic Gear Oil, the only time that I would avoid it is on a 4Runner that has high mileage seals and was previously running conventional gear oil.
After I changed my rear axle seals on the '97, I re-filled it with Redline Synthetic 75w-90 and that is what is in it to this day. I'm also running Redline synthetic in the rear end of my '01 4Runner with no problems whatsoever. I think the synthetic will work fine for you, especially since you have new seals in there.
BigFishAllDay,
Thanks for the feed back I will report back with when all is done, right know I am still try to ordering parts from my dealer but the price here in MN is very high here is the quote I got from Maplewood Toyota of MN.
90301-88077 5.09 each
90310-50006 7.73 each
42423-20010 22.47 each
90363-40020-77 105.74 each
350.30 total with tax
The other pn they don't have in stock.
I might look online for cheaper price.
Thanks, will take a look at it to see if I can a get a better dear from them.
Need some help, I feel like this is repeating a question but I can't find the exact answer to it. The single hole in the plate that has the 6 colts coming out of it. I have oil coming out of that hole... I just did the seals 5 months ago and my friend insist that there should be oil behind the gasket on the back of this plate. I am assuming that since oil came out of this hole in the plate that this means a seal is blown? please look at the picture and let me know what you think. I think I just caught the leak very early cause the brakes aren't greasey at all. My friend-mechanic said fill the hole with silicone. but what is the purpose of this hole? to let you know if there is a blown gasket? wouldn't water get in the hole if you went off roading? So once again small hole on the plate whats it for? and whats the gasket for behind it? if there is oil in there is it okay?
Attachments
tbst
New member
If you can see any oil then you have a problem. There shouldn't be any oil forward of the seal, towards the wheel. That is the point of the seal. You don't want that oil to mix with your bearings, which are on the wheel side of the seal. Does that answer your question?
BFAD, don't mean to keep jumping all over your thread!
BFAD, don't mean to keep jumping all over your thread!
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amlv20
New member
Thanks for the write up very well executed.i am going to do this repair during the week.im hoping i can get away with just the seal and oring on the drivers side, i have a toyota shop manual and a press at work (ford dealer shop) but none of the sst's so im not confident that i can press the axle and bearings out correctly, and we have had a 4runner in the shop before for the same repair and two of our master techs couldn't get it right, took three attempts and two local machine shops until we sent it to toyota and they did it correctly.so i have called the machine shops and have done nothing but lose confidence in the only two in town, and i called toyota to see how much it would be if they just replaced the bearings. the service advisor was being a prick and refusing to due piece work he would only do it if i took the truck for $532 for bearings and seals on drivers side.i dont want to pay to do a job that i can do, so i am hoping i can just get away with the seal at least make it through our trip to L.A. in two weeks.i have no idea how long its been leaking for so im hoping for the best and ready for the worst.oh yea its a 97 sr5 4x4 at 205,xxx mi and is my womans daily driver and our main car for trips, so it only goes off road every now and then when we take the dog to the park.fingers crossed!
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Bratworks
New member
Wow! This amazing write-up is what inspired me to attempt the job without going to a shop.
First evening - passenger side (the one with the leak):
- removed axle assembly
- removed old inner seal
- removed brake components
- removed retaining rings, ABS ring, bearing and outer seal
- re-installed outer seal, bearing, ABS ring and retaining rings
First evening - passenger side (the one with the leak):
- removed axle assembly
- removed old inner seal
- removed brake components
- removed retaining rings, ABS ring, bearing and outer seal
- re-installed outer seal, bearing, ABS ring and retaining rings
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