**Rear Coil Spring Discussion - The Perfect 3rd Gen Rear Spring**

[GhostRiderPatriot]

Basic spring and shock replacement suggestions

I have 1999 limited 2wd and I’m about to replace all 4 shocks and want to knock out the rear springs while I’m at it. I don’t have specific measurements but there is most definitely some rear sag. Timmy the Tool Mans video shows a replacement with the OEM 48231-35210
(1999-2000 Toyota 4Runner Coil Spring 48231-35210 | Camelback Toyota Parts) which would cost me about $200 for the pair and would definitely restore my ride to factory rear height. Advance auto sells this as the 1999 set but I’m unsure if they’ll specifically set the 1999 back to factory height given that this model year has taller springs. Advance auto is about half the price )https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/moog-coil-spring-set-81041/21880947-P)

What would y’all do?

 

[zippinbye]

I've been going to Australia quite a bit. There's a shop across the street from my lodging that builds Toyotas. "OME" is largely displayed as a product line on their outdoor signage.

They also have the classic saying on a banner out front: "If you wan to go the the Outback, you could get a Land Rover. If you want to go to the Outback and get back, you should drive a Land Cruiser." Love it!

Looks like they are building a showcase Prado right now; 35s with a bunch of accessory weight. I'm going to visit them next time and do some research. Will report back with any findings.

 

[3bears]

I have 1999 limited 2wd and I’m about to replace all 4 shocks and want to knock out the rear springs while I’m at it. I don’t have specific measurements but there is most definitely some rear sag. Timmy the Tool Mans video shows a replacement with the OEM 48231-35210
(1999-2000 Toyota 4Runner Coil Spring 48231-35210 | Camelback Toyota Parts) which would cost me about $200 for the pair and would definitely restore my ride to factory rear height. Advance auto sells this as the 1999 set but I’m unsure if they’ll specifically set the 1999 back to factory height given that this model year has taller springs. Advance auto is about half the price )Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance)

What would y’all do?

im not sure, but I think putting on the 99 talls will not bring you back to stock height on your 2wd. they should get you taller, if those are indeed the tall you have listed. Your 2wd was not as tall as the 99 4wd "highlander" version where the talls come from....I think that is all correct.
I know the 99 talls lifted my stock 4wd 2000 almost an inch. I just put the 99 talls on my 2001 4wd and got an inch and now my tires dont rub

type "99 talls 3rd gen" into the google search bar above and it will take you lots of info, including part #'s

 

[Orchardst4r]

I looking at doing the tundra 5100 and the first perch and was wondering what springs would match the rear with I have a 98 sr5 4wd 4 runner looking at getting one of the jumping jack trailers to be towing behind

 

[GhostRiderPatriot]

im not sure, but I think putting on the 99 talls will not bring you back to stock height on your 2wd. they should get you taller, if those are indeed the tall you have listed. Your 2wd was not as tall as the 99 4wd "highlander" version where the talls come from....I think that is all correct.
I know the 99 talls lifted my stock 4wd 2000 almost an inch. I just put the 99 talls on my 2001 4wd and got an inch and now my tires dont rub

type "99 talls 3rd gen" into the google search bar above and it will take you lots of info, including part #'s

Definitely think I was overthinking this. Considering I have stock shocks and springs at 274,465 miles I feel like I’ll get considerable lift going to stock height, no need for the talls. I ordered the Moog’s on Amazon for $45 for the set, we’ll see what happens. Will post an update once I get them on next week. Thanks!

 

[PrinceValorum]

I'm running a Toytec Superflex rear and having some sag issues when fully loaded.

Running a heavy rear bumper, full spare swingout, and when fully loaded for camping with gear, tent, etc, I get some sag.

Is the OME 861 the answer? Need something that can hold more weight but retain the benefits of the Toytec tall superflex.

Do you have the new Superflex coils? I have the 024RCB model that was discontinued, and I'm amazed at how well they hold the weight. I've had them on for two years now, and I crossed the scales at 5620lbs, full trail weight, driver, and full tank of gas.

This is how it sits at that weight on the trip. Tires are 235/85-16s. Front is probably a little low, it's just the stock 600lbs Icon springs at stock 3" lift (unloaded), but I have a bumper, winch, full skids, and dual batteries up front. Unfortunately I didn't take any measurements.

 

[RomanSchnobrich]

Im looking for some LC7wraps if anyone is getting rid of them. Running bilstein 5100 rears and 880/billy front on a 99. My 906s are great unloaded but now that i have a sleeping platform/drawers/500lb slides/ rack/ ect its sitting low (22in hub to fender before trip gear) obviously the 210 is out of the question with the 880 upfront (22)

Make a post on a IH8Mud! The Cruiser Heads on there are super active. I thought I needed some 8 wraps so I was gonna buy some from a dude on there for $40. This is a good route if you're looking for something affordable. I have 7.5 wraps and a 4xInnovations swingout with spare 33", the 7.5 wraps are just about perfect for me, though a bit stiff with the LC Tokicos when unloaded.

 

[silverturbo]

I know this is 5 months old since the last post... but I'm pretty disappointed that the Superflex got discontinued. It worked for me with all the weight and it still had flex.

I guess I have to look elsewhere.

Sent from my SM-A515U using Tapatalk

 

[Family_Wagon]

I believe the $190 2" Dobinsons coils listed on Amazon are actually the C59-222V, not the C59-210v. The 210v are a stock height coil.

And Dobinsons isn't a new company, just 'new-ish' to the US market. I've been running the Dobinsons C59-137v 2in coils on my 3rd gen for 2+ years and they have been really solid for retaining comfort unloaded and then holding 600lbs of cargo and passengers with minimal sag. If I hadn't switched over to LC rear shocks for the 'long travel' i would stick with the 137v. The 137v will fall out with extended shocks (even with 1in spacers).

As for the potential benefits of the 210v, they are all speculative right now unless someone who has run them can chime in. But they are side specific to help with the driver's side lean, and 'should' offer a similiar lift as the LC coils unloaded. With the initial coil rate of 187# they should ride decently well without weight, but then when loaded you'll end up in the 217# section (similar to the OME861). So theoretically they are a blend of the LC coils for comfort and unloaded height, but can take weight like the OME861 without the ridiculous ride height.

I have a set of 210v on back order so I'll be a guinea pig for the 210v. Unfortunately they are on back order until May, so you'll have to wait.

Did you ever get your 210v’s installed? How do you like em?

 

[Wrecked - Rebuilt]

I did get the 210v's installed, and I've have had them on my truck since 2020. I still really like the dual spring rate and the ability to carry a heavy load.

With that said, I would NEVER recommend these for a truck running stock weights. You'll end up pushing 5in of lift, which i've found to have a very pronounced effect on the handling dynamics of the truck. Right now I have ~3in of lift on the front, and I still have a solid rake to the truck. With a 4xinnovations plate bumper, full swingout (i.e. cook tray, dual 5gal jerry cans, hi-lift, and 33in mud tire), 10in sub, amp, recovery gear, 5 gallons of water, camping gear for four people, 55qt pelican cooler, I'm still .5-1in higher in the rear.

Now if you are running this heavy I highly recommend the 210v's, even over the OME 861s. The 210v's are progressive so you do end up getting a little better ride out of them when it is 'unloaded' (still with the plate bumper, spare, and sub). In the rocks they flex out well, zero complaints about that. If you're looking to get the most out of a permanently heavy setup I strongly recommend ditching the Bilstein 5100s and going with the Tokico Land Cruiser shocks. They have enough dampening for a 6000lb+ Land Cruiser so the won't struggle with a heavy 4runner. Not only that, they have about .5in shorter compressed length, and .5in longer extended length...also cheaper, I think I paid $43 per shock.

Just so you have all the information, my setup is: 210v's, Tokico LC shocks, Durobumps 5.25in bump stops (awesome upgrade), Eimkeith PCK, extended brake lines, relocated sway bar, poly upper control arm bushings, and new 98'+ OEM lower control arm bushings with Toytec skids. Overall, the rear of my truck is fairly dialed and works great without creaking, binding, or complaining. I've had a chance to demo 2.5in shocks for the rear, and while they are 'better', they don't add enough control to justify the price, the Tokico are good enough for 99% of what I do. Now the front is another story...after my re-gear and front locker install later this year I will be going to Radflo 2.5in coilovers. The 2.5in coilovers are a dramatic improvement over bilstein 5100s or Dobinson twin-tubes.

 

[Paulmaz]

Just bought a 2002 2Wd with 290K Miles, with 16 in. wheels. Runs great, but suspension is bad and maybe original!

What are your thoughts on this configuration. Looking for a moderate lift from this (under 2 inches)

REAR:
Moog 81041 Coils
Bilstein 5100

FRONT:
Moog 81088 Coils
Bilstein 5100 24-248730
Monroe 904900 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit
Gabriel 142467 Hardware Kit

any pros/cons would be very helpful!

Also buying a Spring Compression tool for the front:
ABN 11.5in Strut Spring Compressor Tool – Set of 2 (Pair) – Macpherson Spring Compression, 13/16in Socket 1/2in Drive

thanks,
Paul

 

[chen5108]

I did get the 210v's installed, and I've have had them on my truck since 2020. I still really like the dual spring rate and the ability to carry a heavy load.

With that said, I would NEVER recommend these for a truck running stock weights. You'll end up pushing 5in of lift, which i've found to have a very pronounced effect on the handling dynamics of the truck. Right now I have ~3in of lift on the front, and I still have a solid rake to the truck. With a 4xinnovations plate bumper, full swingout (i.e. cook tray, dual 5gal jerry cans, hi-lift, and 33in mud tire), 10in sub, amp, recovery gear, 5 gallons of water, camping gear for four people, 55qt pelican cooler, I'm still .5-1in higher in the rear.

Now if you are running this heavy I highly recommend the 210v's, even over the OME 861s. The 210v's are progressive so you do end up getting a little better ride out of them when it is 'unloaded' (still with the plate bumper, spare, and sub). In the rocks they flex out well, zero complaints about that. If you're looking to get the most out of a permanently heavy setup I strongly recommend ditching the Bilstein 5100s and going with the Tokico Land Cruiser shocks. They have enough dampening for a 6000lb+ Land Cruiser so the won't struggle with a heavy 4runner. Not only that, they have about .5in shorter compressed length, and .5in longer extended length...also cheaper, I think I paid $43 per shock.

Just so you have all the information, my setup is: 210v's, Tokico LC shocks, Durobumps 5.25in bump stops (awesome upgrade), Eimkeith PCK, extended brake lines, relocated sway bar, poly upper control arm bushings, and new 98'+ OEM lower control arm bushings with Toytec skids. Overall, the rear of my truck is fairly dialed and works great without creaking, binding, or complaining. I've had a chance to demo 2.5in shocks for the rear, and while they are 'better', they don't add enough control to justify the price, the Tokico are good enough for 99% of what I do. Now the front is another story...after my re-gear and front locker install later this year I will be going to Radflo 2.5in coilovers. The 2.5in coilovers are a dramatic improvement over bilstein 5100s or Dobinson twin-tubes.

Well said!

I was waiting to see more people chime in on the 210V's.
I've been riding on mine for the past few months and they are comfortable for me. I run a rear steel bumper with dual swing outs, spare tire, dual jerry cans and recovery gear. With the understanding that it wasn't enough weight I added about 200# of sand. I still love the ride and I'm ready for when I need to add more weight.

My setup is, 210v's (without top isolator cone), Elka rear shocks (from SRQ), Extended brake lines, extended bake cable craket, 5.25" durobumps and both eimkeith PCK brackets.

 

[Kirk D]

Just so you have all the information, my setup is: 210v's, Tokico LC shocks, Durobumps 5.25in bump stops (awesome upgrade), Eimkeith PCK, extended brake lines, relocated sway bar, poly upper control arm bushings, and new 98'+ OEM lower control arm bushings with Toytec skids. Overall, the rear of my truck is fairly dialed and works great without creaking, binding, or complaining. I've had a chance to demo 2.5in shocks for the rear, and while they are 'better', they don't add enough control to justify the price, the Tokico are good enough for 99% of what I do. Now the front is another story...after my re-gear and front locker install later this year I will be going to Radflo 2.5in coilovers. The 2.5in coilovers are a dramatic improvement over bilstein 5100s or Dobinson twin-tubes.

Sounds to me like youre running a very similar setup to what I have. Full gate, 35" spare, eimkeith plate rear bumper, pck, 34" lower links, but also have the 20 gal tank setup in addition to the factory tank, and 1/8" skid plates for both. I currently have LC 8 wraps in the rear but I've been considering the 210v because of the progressive rate since 20 gals of fuel is a 120lb dynamic load that obviously changes as I use it.

You have any insight comparing the 210s to the 8 wraps?

Also, I definitely reccomend moving the shocks outboard, I did it last year with 10" stroke king 2.5s. FYI, in heindsight, I believe I could have gotten a 12" stroke shock in there but you will likely extend to the point of being unsprung if you dont limit droop. Nearly happens with the 8wraps and 10" shock now.

 

[Jaysen4runner]

After a year of running the db-210v I feel I need another 0.25-0.5 lift. Rear- drawers, rear bumper w/spare. I'm thinking about 861 now due to the sag when fully loaded.

 

[CT135]

After a year of running the db-210v I feel I need another 0.25-0.5 lift. Rear- drawers, rear bumper w/spare. I'm thinking about 861 now due to the sag when fully loaded.

To get that little bit of extra lift you could- add the bump stop isolator back in (if you chose to take it off), and/or get some old man emu 10mm trim packers. Those options would be cheaper and possibly worth a look.

 

[Devbot]

To get that little bit of extra lift you could- add the bump stop isolator back in (if you chose to take it off), and/or get some old man emu 10mm trim packers. Those options would be cheaper and possibly worth a look.

I was gonna say exactly that; add the cone shaped stops back in if they're not there already. Should be perfect. Ironically I want to take mine out to drop it down 1/4-1/2 inch

 

[Jaysen4runner]

I was gonna say exactly that; add the cone shaped stops back in if they're not there already. Should be perfect. Ironically I want to take mine out to drop it down 1/4-1/2 inch

That was what I was just thinking, thanks for the input!

 

[Romeo1]

Older thread, but it seems to be one of the best ones on rear springs.

Well, I finally hit the point that the 2906 rear springs aren’t cutting it anymore. Last week in Moab loaded up with recovery gear, a lifetime cooler, snacks, clothes, an air compressor and some tools it felt lacking on the trails. It did poison spider, but it was a bit of work out to make sure I didn’t bang up the rockers since I don’t I don’t have my sliders on yet (damn shoulder injury…... finally past all that nonsense though)

The vr evo-s winch and the Amp’d hidden winch plate didn’t seem to change things up front too bad, but I was constantly pushing on the Duro bumps in the rear and it just felt under sprung. I’ll bet there was 300 lbs, maybe more in the back plus a full at set of 3 4XI belly armor plates, lotus lower arm mount protectors, a lil skips tank skid,and 5 people. I’m sure once I get the 4XI sliders on it won’t help the situation either.

I guess 2890 rear springs is the next logical step. The extra free length should make up for the slightly lower rate. Maybe I’ll bump the front springs to the tallest ride height from 2” to 2.3” on the bilsteins.

I feel like I’m at a bit of a cross roads. Do I go all out and build it some more with 35’s, bumpers, and a supercharger or just enjoy for what it is. It got 22.4 mpg on the way back from Moab…..

Should I go 2890’s or just go straight to the 2891’s? I plan on keeping the cone and the Duro bumps.

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

Older thread, but it seems to be one of the best ones on rear springs.

Well, I finally hit the point that the 2906 rear springs aren’t cutting it anymore. Last week in Moab loaded up with recovery gear, a lifetime cooler, snacks, clothes, an air compressor and some tools it felt lacking on the trails. It did poison spider, but it was a bit of work out to make sure I didn’t bang up the rockers since I don’t I don’t have my sliders on yet (damn shoulder injury…... finally past all that nonsense though)

The vr evo-s winch and the Amp’d hidden winch plate didn’t seem to change things up front too bad, but I was constantly pushing on the Duro bumps in the rear and it just felt under sprung. I’ll bet there was 300 lbs, maybe more in the back plus a full at set of 3 4XI belly armor plates, lotus lower arm mount protectors, a lil skips tank skid,and 5 people. I’m sure once I get the 4XI sliders on it won’t help the situation either.

I guess 2890 rear springs is the next logical step. The extra free length should make up for the slightly lower rate. Maybe I’ll bump the front springs to the tallest ride height from 2” to 2.3” on the bilsteins.

I feel like I’m at a bit of a cross roads. Do I go all out and build it some more with 35’s, bumpers, and a supercharger or just enjoy for what it is. It got 22.4 mpg on the way back from Moab…..

Should I go 2890’s or just go straight to the 2891’s? I plan on keeping the cone and the Duro bumps.

I have run the 890s for about a year and half now and to put it bluntly they suck. When I'm fully loaded which is about 300lbs~ they sag horribly. When im not loaded up the height is fine. Which tells me the spring rate just cant handle it. I have the bravada bumpstops and when im fully loaded im riding on them. They still flex really well but they cannot handle any serious weight. I will be going with the superflex coils for this reason

 

[octanejunkie]

890s are not meant for extra load, and they will sag in time. Ask me how I know.

There are a ton of springs (and shock combos) out there so rather than just look at one spring, consider the type of driving you mostly do and what weight you carry, average and max, and choose the best balance.

891s may be stiff when the truck is unloaded. Air bags might be a good compromise in addition to rear springs for those extreme situations.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk