Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit

[MENTION=118207]midcoma[/MENTION]

Just found out I'm going back to work on the 4th. I also did the research and Powerstop makes the calipers. I've had great results with their front TBU calipers so I'll use those. If there's still a kit left I'll take one. I'll also take the parking brake kit to hold me over until I can get the t-case lock. Shoot me a PM about what you have left from your t-case lock set-up when you get time and maybe I'll grab that from you as well. Thanks for getting the plates together for this.
 
I've been working on this project for a few years and finally had some time to get serious about it. The design is complete and fabrication is in progress.

I know you and I have corresponded about this setup in the past. Looks like you have done a terrific job. as always your work is top notch.

I put this vid togeather that shows my setup. the one issue I'm having with the ebrake setup... well I will let the vid do the talking. wondering if you can lock up the rears with the cable setup your running?

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I'm totally in for the conversion kit as well as the emergency brake kit as well this will be a welcoming site to a 20 year old 2000 4runner
 
First post. Long time lurker.

Would this bracket still leave room for the full float conversion kits?

Also how many runs of these do you plan to do?

If this is your only one, go ahead and throw my name in there with the parking brake kit if you will make more than 10 on this run, otherwise ill be on the wait list and tell me where to send my monies!!
 
On a rig that still has ABS, the ABS computer will still receive the correct signals to detect wheel slip, but now ABS will be kicking in far, far more often for the rear brakes.

Further, the actual brake/ABS pulses will still be of the same strength (ABS system would assume drum brake power) and cause a longer duration of ABS activation. I still think a proportioning valve would benefit by reducing power sent to the now rear disk brakes.

ABS is a continuous feedback system. So if the pulse strength and/or duration causes lock-up, it will still receive that signal and adjust for it accordingly. Maybe I'm giving the system more credit than it deserves. It's good to hear in sleepydad's post that his ABS works properly.

I'm still not saying a proportioning valve wouldn't be beneficial, just not convinced it's necessary with ABS. If you remove the ABS, absolutely run a proportioning valve.

How would you adjust the valve with ABS? I would think the system would prevent you from being able to get the response required to adjust it properly.

Would you recommend installing a residual valve as well to help with the issue of rotor runout pushing the piston back into the caliper and causing a soft pedal? and for anyone who has a residual valve, would you just attach it at the T fitting for the rear brake lines?

I haven't used a residual valve, but I think it would only help.

According to Wilwood, the residual valve should be installed as close to the master cylinder as possible. 2lb valves are standard for disc brake systems, but Wilwood also has a 4lb valve for "disc brake systems where extreme shock loads, hard vibration, and suspension component flex can contribute to excessive caliper piston retraction and pad knock back."

Info here.

Wondering if you can lock up the rears with the cable setup your running?

I've never tried. I only use the parking brake as a parking brake. I kind of doubt it though, the handle requires a decent effort to lift. At what speed were you applying the brake in your video?

Would this bracket still leave room for the full float conversion kits?

Also how many runs of these do you plan to do?

I don't think this kit would work with a full float conversion, but I don't know for sure. It hasn't been tested with one.

Based on the interest so far, it looks like I'll be doing more runs than expected.
 
[MENTION=312674]powerman83[/MENTION] [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] [MENTION=405460]2TH4IST[/MENTION] [MENTION=69310]zacattack20[/MENTION] [MENTION=116195]weekendclimber[/MENTION] [MENTION=358269]Prezioso70[/MENTION] [MENTION=141769]Blackdawg[/MENTION] [MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION] [MENTION=558149]ACE115[/MENTION] [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] [MENTION=99840]Twan[/MENTION] [MENTION=155879]AntonioCm1983[/MENTION] [MENTION=154086]itskmill06[/MENTION] [MENTION=125733]PandaRescue89[/MENTION] [MENTION=302380]rexassian[/MENTION] [MENTION=63700]Rcastle[/MENTION]

The interest in a parking brake kit has been pretty overwhelming so I'm trying to get this going ASAP. I added information for a parking brake kit to the original post. Please review it and let me know if you're interested. I plan to start ordering parts soon to get these together. My intention is to get the kits ready to ship with the brackets so you have everything you need for a complete install in one shipment.
 
Quick Update

The brackets are on their way to the electroplating shop. I'm hoping for a quick turn around.

Due to there being more interest than I expected, I placed an order today for another run of brackets. So if you didn't make it into the first 10 you shouldn't have to wait too long to get a set.
 
I’m thinking the ABS system in these just pulses the fluid pressure in the system if it detects a wheel stopping out of sync with the others.
So I can’t see how it could be expected to resolve an imbalanced system.
If the system too easily locks up the rear tires, for instance on wet pavement, then the ABS will pulse all the brakes and your stoping distance will suffer. You’ll loose the braking power and traction of the front wheels if you lock up the rear wheels.

At least that’s my understanding of these ABS systems. They don’t appear to deal with individual wheels or axles like newer systems.
 
I’m thinking the ABS system in these just pulses the fluid pressure in the system if it detects a wheel stopping out of sync with the others.
So I can’t see how it could be expected to resolve an imbalanced system.
If the system too easily locks up the rear tires, for instance on wet pavement, then the ABS will pulse all the brakes and your stoping distance will suffer. You’ll loose the braking power and traction of the front wheels if you lock up the rear wheels.

At least that’s my understanding of these ABS systems. They don’t appear to deal with individual wheels or axles like newer systems.

I have a very similar setup with these same calipers. I have driven with this setup in 2 winters and the ABS works fine in snow and ice. Where I live we get everything from ice storms to regular snow.

I have also tested it doing emergency stops on dry pavement and it functions just like the drums and the ABS pulse still happen.

If your ABS works now this setup should continue to work.
 
[MENTION=312674]powerman83[/MENTION] [MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] [MENTION=405460]2TH4IST[/MENTION] [MENTION=69310]zacattack20[/MENTION] [MENTION=116195]weekendclimber[/MENTION] [MENTION=358269]Prezioso70[/MENTION] [MENTION=141769]Blackdawg[/MENTION] [MENTION=109102]MattJakobs[/MENTION] [MENTION=558149]ACE115[/MENTION] [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] [MENTION=99840]Twan[/MENTION] [MENTION=155879]AntonioCm1983[/MENTION] [MENTION=154086]itskmill06[/MENTION] [MENTION=125733]PandaRescue89[/MENTION] [MENTION=302380]rexassian[/MENTION] [MENTION=63700]Rcastle[/MENTION]

The interest in a parking brake kit has been pretty overwhelming so I'm trying to get this going ASAP. I added information for a parking brake kit to the original post. Please review it and let me know if you're interested. I plan to start ordering parts soon to get these together. My intention is to get the kits ready to ship with the brackets so you have everything you need for a complete install in one shipment.

Still in!! TAKE MY MONEY!!
 
I have a very similar setup with these same calipers. I have driven with this setup in 2 winters and the ABS works fine in snow and ice. Where I live we get everything from ice storms to regular snow.

I have also tested it doing emergency stops on dry pavement and it functions just like the drums and the ABS pulse still happen.

If your ABS works now this setup should continue to work.

I’m not saying the ABS wouldn’t activate. I’m saying it may be overactive.
Good to hear your setup works good.

What was your stopping distances pre and post the conversion? Did you see meaningful improvement?
 
If anyone in the Hampton Roads, VA area is interested in a kit, I can help with the install and we can do a before/after stopping distance test to try and get some real world performance info.

Thinking about this more, anyone from Eastern NC also. The best place to do this would be at NCCAR. I could talk to the track manager and see if I'd be able to set up track time for testing. Test the 4Runner stock, install the kit in their garage, then test with the rear discs.
 
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I’m not saying the ABS wouldn’t activate. I’m saying it may be overactive.
Good to hear your setup works good.

What was your stopping distances pre and post the conversion? Did you see meaningful improvement?
Everyone should note that generally, disc brakes need MORE line pressure for the same braking force application. That is all variable with piston sizes, drum/rotor diameters, brake pad/shoe material, etc... The advantage of disc is linear application, better pedal feel, better heat dissipation, etc.

Early brakes were drum brakes because they required less force to get the required stopping power (pre vacuum assist)...

-Charlie
 
I’m not saying the ABS wouldn’t activate. I’m saying it may be overactive.

That's exactly what I'm saying - but ABS on these rigs in my mind and experience is a death trap. Too many times I have tried to stop and ABS wouldn't allow it.... Snow, ice, mud, gravel, sand, slopes, etc. Like others have said in the past, I think the ABS on these trucks works for pavement only.
 

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