Rear tire rub with 34's

[6wheelin]

Can someone point me in the direction of a thread that covers this issue.

I just mounted 285/70/17 Toyo Open country MT's on Method 701's. Went snow wheelin in Big Bear and noticed rear driver side tire lugs were sliced. I believe this happened with my 33's but to a lesser extent.

Here's what happens on compression the tire/ wheel travels forward making contact with the steel fender liner close to the rear door. It looks like a pinch weld. It stuffed so much that it literally bent the seam outward.

I think the solution is, trim and go with adjustable upper and lower links and pan hard bar to recenter the wheel in the well by moving the rear axle back. Before spending another 1k on parts I'd like to know more info.

If you've done this fix please point me to the right thread.

TIA

Hugh

 

[duffdog]

Can someone point me in the direction of a thread that covers this issue.

I just mounted 285/70/17 Toyo Open country MT's on Method 701's. Went snow wheelin in Big Bear and noticed rear driver side tire lugs were sliced. I believe this happened with my 33's but to a lesser extent.

Here's what happens on compression the tire/ wheel travels forward making contact with the steel fender liner close to the rear door. It looks like a pinch weld. It stuffed so much that it literally bent the seam outward.

I think the solution is, trim and go with adjustable upper and lower links and pan hard bar to recenter the wheel in the well by moving the rear axle back. Before spending another 1k on parts I'd like to know more info.

If you've done this fix please point me to the right thread.

TIA

Hugh

You cannot fix it like that. "moving the rear axle back" would mean that you now need a fully custom rear driveline with extended splines. The solution
for this problem that I have installed is this: First, you need a custom rear bumper with all the factory plastic completely removed, then you need a lift with extended bump stops so that the tire never completely goes into the wheel well ever again but has more downward travel to retain performance offroad.

 

[Inv4drZm]

This area here? I'm surprised you rub with 33's. 285/70/17 are considered 33's unless you typed it wrong. I rub the fender and not the pinch weld, but with 35's.

 

[Inv4drZm]

You cannot fix it like that. "moving the rear axle back" would mean that you now need a fully custom rear driveline with extended splines. The solution
for this problem that I have installed is this: First, you need a custom rear bumper with all the factory plastic completely removed, then you need a lift with extended bump stops so that the tire never completely goes into the wheel well ever again but has more downward travel to retain performance offroad.

1/4"-1/2" is all he probably needs. If that's the case he doesn't need a modified driveshaft

Plus a custom rear driveline would be cheaper than an new bumper/lift.

The questing is; if moving it back will cause rubbing at the rear.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

You rub like that on 33's? I NEVER rubbed on 285/70 with Ridge Grapplers and 0 Offset Level 8 MK 6 wheels. I rubbed on the mudflaps and those were quickly taken off. I now have 34's and haven't "flexed" it yet, but know even pulling into some parking lots it would rub the rear bumper so I trimmed more. But have never seen it hit the front like that. Guess I'll have to find somewhere to go and flex her out on my 34's to see. I do have Wheelers bump stops on the rear but no extensions.

 

[adkfinn]

- extended bump stops - likely your cheapest solution. if you are running factory bump stops I'd suggest Wheeler's super bumps - they are a bit softer and more progressive than the factory bumps. Also I think their rear mount is a bit longer than stock also. If that isn't enough Metal Tech sells a 3" extension, or you could booty fab a spacer yourself.

- body lift - probably the next cheapest solution, will possibly give you enough clearance to eliminate your rub - I think [MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] run a body lift (see his sig.).

Either of these is much simpler and less costly than adjustable control arms, rear bumpers, drive line work, etc.

Edit/more info:

I am running 275/70/18 Duractracs (about an inch taller than your tires) with extended travel Dobinson's rear suspension (675v coils and 575 shocks) with Wheeler's super bumps (+ some additional homebrew spacing) and have only the lightest of rubbing at 100% stuff. No body lift, but it is probably what I'd do next, if anything.

 

[blackoutt]

I have stock rear arms with Energy Suspension bushings (except toytec panhard but I haven't adjusted that in years) and I rub my 295/70-17 on the REAR of the rear fender well with mudflaps removed and bumper trimmed a little bit, never on the door side? Maybe this is fender flare shape between 03-05 and 06-09? Oh I also have 1" body lift and only a 2" bumpstop drop keep as much uptravel as I can with the long travel rear.

Custom Wheelers Superbump rear bumpstop drop
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2846881-post29554.html

But anyway you could fix it by adjustable arms, just to get a little extra room for 33's it won't be lengthening drive shaft enough to matter in the slip yoke. The other option is lower the bump stop down to limit wheel uptravel.

 

[Inv4drZm]

- body lift - probably the next cheapest solution, will possibly give you enough clearance to eliminate your rub - I think [MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] run a body lift (see his sig.).

Oh yeah I forgot I had a 1.5" BL. Very nice hidden mod. That's probably why I don't rub so much at that spot even with 35's.

 

[adkfinn]

I have stock rear arms with Energy Suspension bushings (except toytec panhard but I haven't adjusted that in years) and I rub my 295/70-17 on the REAR of the rear fender well with mudflaps removed and bumper trimmed a little bit, never on the door side?

My rubbing during install and testing was also on the rear edge of the fenderwell. I did remove the mud flaps and trim a bit of the lower edge of the fender away.I have no clearance issues with the front side of the fender or body at the rear wheels.

 

[6wheelin]

This area here? I'm surprised you rub with 33's. 285/70/17 are considered 33's unless you typed it wrong. I rub the fender and not the pinch weld, but with 35's.

I typed wrong 285/75/17 34's

Definitely rubbed with 33's sliced lugs same way.

Hugh

 

[duffdog]

- extended bump stops - likely your cheapest solution. if you are running factory bump stops I'd suggest Wheeler's super bumps - they are a bit softer and more progressive than the factory bumps. Also I think their rear mount is a bit longer than stock also. If that isn't enough Metal Tech sells a 3" extension, or you could booty fab a spacer yourself.

- body lift - probably the next cheapest solution, will possibly give you enough clearance to eliminate your rub - I think [MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] run a body lift (see his sig.).

Either of these is much simpler and less costly than adjustable control arms, rear bumpers, drive line work, etc.

Edit/more info:

I am running 275/70/18 Duractracs (about an inch taller than your tires) with extended travel Dobinson's rear suspension (675v coils and 575 shocks) with Wheeler's super bumps (+ some additional homebrew spacing) and have only the lightest of rubbing at 100% stuff. No body lift, but it is probably what I'd do next, if anything.

Is that a pic of your truck in your sig? There is no way you don't rub in the front, just from that little picture I don't understand how you could even turn when offroad with your tire so close to the front fender.

I feel that I should mention that I have literally everything talked about on this thread and I still rub when I crawl or even turn sharp up a slight incline as the tires will rub on the frame at full lock. I currently have 0 offset beadlocks with 315/65/17 tires, 1.5" body lift, 3" suspension lift, new front and rear bumpers, BMC, extended bump stops and all the plastic has been trimmed away from that area on the fender and it STILL rubs when you wheel it. I am really not sure how the OP is going to "fix" the rubbing unless he gets a different truck or never goes offroad. I have actually not seen a single 4th gen EVER with 33's or larger (not metric, actual measured 33x12.5x17) that didn't rub when wheeling. If you have pics of one I would love to see it as I cannot think of anything else to do except ditch the entire suspension and go with SAS on full width axles.

 

[6wheelin]

1/4"-1/2" is all he probably needs. If that's the case he doesn't need a modified driveshaft

Plus a custom rear driveline would be cheaper than an new bumper/lift.

The questing is; if moving it back will cause rubbing at the rear.

I agree 1/4 to 1/2" may not be a big deal in terms of the slip yoke.

I think I need to flex it out under controlled conditions to really see where the major rubbing is occurring.

In the rear I have Icon 2.0 shocks 3" lift with OME heavy duty springs. Currently looking at a Metal Tech long travel kit. Got a call scheduled for this Wednesday to chat with them.

 

[6wheelin]

You rub like that on 33's? I NEVER rubbed on 285/70 with Ridge Grapplers and 0 Offset Level 8 MK 6 wheels. I rubbed on the mudflaps and those were quickly taken off. I now have 34's and haven't "flexed" it yet, but know even pulling into some parking lots it would rub the rear bumper so I trimmed more. But have never seen it hit the front like that. Guess I'll have to find somewhere to go and flex her out on my 34's to see. I do have Wheelers bump stops on the rear but no extensions.

All I know is I went through a cross over obstacle and hear it grinding big time. Sliced the rubber like butter. As I said before it did the same to my Goodyear Wrangler MTR's in 33. I think flexing it out is a really good idea.

I'm thinking the solution is limit up travel some and adjust the axle slightly away from the area it's rubbing.

 

[6wheelin]

Is that a pic of your truck in your sig? There is no way you don't rub in the front, just from that little picture I don't understand how you could even turn when offroad with your tire so close to the front fender.

I feel that I should mention that I have literally everything talked about on this thread and I still rub when I crawl or even turn sharp up a slight incline as the tires will rub on the frame at full lock. I currently have 0 offset beadlocks with 315/65/17 tires, 1.5" body lift, 3" suspension lift, new front and rear bumpers, BMC, extended bump stops and all the plastic has been trimmed away from that area on the fender and it STILL rubs when you wheel it. I am really not sure how the OP is going to "fix" the rubbing unless he gets a different truck or never goes offroad. I have actually not seen a single 4th gen EVER with 33's or larger (not metric, actual measured 33x12.5x17) that didn't rub when wheeling. If you have pics of one I would love to see it as I cannot think of anything else to do except ditch the entire suspension and go with SAS on full width axles.

I agree there will be rubbing on 33's and up somewhere most likely at the front rubbing at full lock as you mentioned. I've thought about SAS but that's a huge expense. I don't feel I can ditch the rig as I have so much into it. If I decide to do hardcore wheeling then I'll look for another dedicated rig maybe an early pre '85 but those are getting rare and expensive or thrashed.

This is as large as I go. 34X11.50R17

 

[adkfinn]

Is that a pic of your truck in your sig? There is no way you don't rub in the front, just from that little picture I don't understand how you could even turn when offroad with your tire so close to the front fender.

I feel that I should mention that I have literally everything talked about on this thread and I still rub when I crawl or even turn sharp up a slight incline as the tires will rub on the frame at full lock. I currently have 0 offset beadlocks with 315/65/17 tires, 1.5" body lift, 3" suspension lift, new front and rear bumpers, BMC, extended bump stops and all the plastic has been trimmed away from that area on the fender and it STILL rubs when you wheel it. I am really not sure how the OP is going to "fix" the rubbing unless he gets a different truck or never goes offroad. I have actually not seen a single 4th gen EVER with 33's or larger (not metric, actual measured 33x12.5x17) that didn't rub when wheeling. If you have pics of one I would love to see it as I cannot think of anything else to do except ditch the entire suspension and go with SAS on full width axles.

I have removed my front mud flaps and trimmed some of the front fenderwell plastic. The only rub I have in the front is at like 30% turn in reverse when the edge of the tire just barely makes contact with the fender. I have no rub while driving or offroading. The big difference between our setups is that you are running tires that are over 1.5" wider than mine, and my wheels are also -12mm offset.

Edit: Also, after a second look, I think the angle of my avatar pic is deceiving.

 

[HCWatson997]

Trimming for 34s

Hi, I think I can be of some help here. I hope you’re talking about 285/75/17 instead of 285/70/17. The first is a 34 and second a 33. I put on 34s back in September with 3.5-4” lift up front and 2” in the rear. I rubbed on my stock bumper with stock UCAs REALLY BAD on the street...I cut off 1” from the front fender including both metal and the flare. I also cut a tapered line from the corner where the fender meets the bumper in the fenderwell with up to 2” cut off the front bumper. For the rear bumper, I had to trim 1/2” off up to the fender. I have 2” bumpstop drops as well as a 1” body lift. Did an aggressive body mount chop and removed all fender lining. Sitting on bumpstops, I still have 1” or more of clearance in the fenderwell when it’s tucked in there. I still rub on the firewall/body mount some with stock UCAs when flexed out. I really tried to make the cuts as clean as possible.

 

[phqduphead]

Running 295 70 17 mud terrains, I have metal tech lower rear arms which I extended 1/4”. That keeps me from rubbing on my door fender. I trimmed the bumper side if the wheel well and hammered the pinch weld. I’m running the long travel setup so I have 2” bump stops. My front is cut aggressively, has a caster of 5 and I don’t rub. No body lift.