Rear wheel bearing BS! Input appreciated

[4Runner4Leon]

So in the earlier video, the wheel was rocking/wobbling - did you try repeating that with the tool you bolted to the flange? It looks to me like it no longer rocks, but only moves in and out of the housing, is that right?

I think that if the issue is the axle moving in and out of the housing, then it's most likely the bearing - either it has too much internal play or it has too much movement in and out of the hub (like said before, it's not pressed into the hub, so it can move in and out fairly freely). Tolerancing on all the parts should prevent too much movement within the hub, unless some part got machined down or there is some type of spacer between the bearing hub and the backing plate.

Hard to tell from the video how bad the play is, can you give us an idea of how much you think it's moving?

 

[nevada]

Test2
https://youtu.be/ja5wP6qjvt8

The passenger side does not move side to side.

unless that backing plate isn't bolted in fully in the correct position I would say that bearing is bad. but, that is a LOT of movement for a NEW bad bearing.

however, if the backing plate isn't seating all the way for whatever reason, this is the type of movement you would get.

 

[kolelt]

The video of the tire moving. Was the driver side. With the tire it looked like it wobblesd. In the 2 latest videos. With the angle bolted. I cannot duplicate a wobble. Only in/out movement. I would say it’s a heavy 1/8”+ or - of movement. So yes, I cannot duplicate the wobble/rocking with the angle. Only in and out.

The backing plate and the wheel bearing race is tight. When I hammer the studs down for clearance. I use a bigger nut over the stud with the actual but to suck the stud back up with a impact. And I ran them pretty snug.

I guess I could double check the back plate again.

 

[kolelt]

I guess new bearing again it is ?

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I guess new bearing again it is ?

I don't see how a ball bearing, no matter how bad, can allow 1/8" of axial play. You can pull the axle shaft out again, take the hub (bearing cap) off, and pull back and forth on the bearing's outer race. I don't think you'll see it move back and forth by 1/8".

 

[kolelt]

I don't see how a ball bearing, no matter how bad, can allow 1/8" of axial play. You can pull the axle shaft out again, take the hub (bearing cap) off, and pull back and forth on the bearing's outer race. I don't think you'll see it move back and forth by 1/8".

I guess just send it then lol? It’s my luck. Always ! What’s the worst that can happen. I have 2 brand new KOYO bearings. They are OEM but not from Toyota dealer. They are KOYO boxed. Really don’t feel like taking everything out AGAIN!

I’m really baffled as to why this is. Could this be because it’s a elocker third member?

 

[nevada]

I guess just send it then lol? It’s my luck. Always ! What’s the worst that can happen. I have 2 brand new KOYO bearings. They are OEM but not from Toyota dealer. They are KOYO boxed. Really don’t feel like taking everything out AGAIN!

I’m really baffled as to why this is. Could this be because it’s a elocker third member?

nope. that wouldn't have anything to do with it.

 

[mtbtim]

I don't see how a ball bearing, no matter how bad, can allow 1/8" of axial play. You can pull the axle shaft out again, take the hub (bearing cap) off, and pull back and forth on the bearing's outer race. I don't think you'll see it move back and forth by 1/8".

Well, if the outer race of the bearing is securely sandwiched between the bearing case and the end of the axle housing, that play he videoed has to be coming from excessive play in the bearing. If it's not coming from slop in the bearing, that means some abnormal wear happened to the bearing case to allow for the whole bearing to slide in and out. Basically a pocket wider than the width of the outer race has been created. I don't see how that could happen unless there was an axle bearing failure sometime in the past.

 

[mtbtim]

I guess just send it then lol? It’s my luck. Always ! What’s the worst that can happen. I have 2 brand new KOYO bearings. They are OEM but not from Toyota dealer. They are KOYO boxed. Really don’t feel like taking everything out AGAIN!

I’m really baffled as to why this is. Could this be because it’s a elocker third member?

In my opinion, I think you should send that bearing back for a replacement. At the same time, take a really good look at the bearing case to see if there's signs of abnormal wear. You could also take some quick measurements. With the bearing fully seated in the bearing case, take a measurement from the outer race to the inside lip of the case. Now, compare that measurement to the length of the lip of the axle housing end that slides into the bearing case and those two measurements should pretty much match letting you know when you bolt up the axle to the housing, that bearing is securely sandwiched between the bearing case and axle housing.

 

[nevada]

The video of the tire moving. Was the driver side. With the tire it looked like it wobblesd. In the 2 latest videos. With the angle bolted. I cannot duplicate a wobble. Only in/out movement. I would say it’s a heavy 1/8”+ or - of movement. So yes, I cannot duplicate the wobble/rocking with the angle. Only in and out.

The backing plate and the wheel bearing race is tight. When I hammer the studs down for clearance. I use a bigger nut over the stud with the actual but to suck the stud back up with a impact. And I ran them pretty snug.

I guess I could double check the back plate again.

I just had a though. perhaps its the WRONG bearing. if the width is too narrow, it wont be clamped between the backing plate and the housing, allowing the in/out movement you are getting.

I have seen mix-boxed parts MANY times. if it was only an 1/8" or so, you might not notice it if you weren't comparing them directly to the old ones. pull the bad side out and check the width of the bearing. in betting its small.

 

[mtbtim]

I just had a though. perhaps its the WRONG bearing. if the width is too narrow, it wont be clamped between the backing plate and the housing, allowing the in/out movement you are getting.

I have seen mix-boxed parts MANY times. if it was only an 1/8" or so, you might not notice it if you weren't comparing them directly to the old ones. pull the bad side out and check the width of the bearing. in betting its small.

That's a good thought. Maybe he did get the wrong bearing.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I just had a though. perhaps its the WRONG bearing. if the width is too narrow, it wont be clamped between the backing plate and the housing, allowing the in/out movement you are getting.

I have seen mix-boxed parts MANY times. if it was only an 1/8" or so, you might not notice it if you weren't comparing them directly to the old ones. pull the bad side out and check the width of the bearing. in betting its small.

Definitely a possibility! What's the part number on the bearing (not the box)?

 

[kolelt]

I don’t know if camelback would take the bearing back? Considering it wasn’t installed by a dealer. The part number I got part #from 3rd gen oem part directory on here.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I don’t know if camelback would take the bearing back? Considering it wasn’t installed by a dealer. The part number I got part #from 3rd gen oem part directory on here.

No, I mean the part number on the bearing itself (in case there was the wrong bearing in the right box). Does it say 6308 on the inner race?

 

[mtbtim]

I don’t know if camelback would take the bearing back? Considering it wasn’t installed by a dealer. The part number I got part #from 3rd gen oem part directory on here.

Call Camelback and talk to Jorge (He pronounces it George). He handles the online sales. Tell him your issue and mention Timmy the Toolman said he would take care of you. I've referred tons of people to Camelback for their Toyota parts needs through our channel. If he doesn't take care of you, message me and I'll call and talk to him.

 

[kolelt]

Alright. Thanks guys and thanks Tim. I’ll call them. I don’t know the part number of the bearing it self. It’s inside the axle housing lol.

 

[kolelt]

No, I mean the part number on the bearing itself (in case there was the wrong bearing in the right box). Does it say 6308 on the inner race?

Like I said. I have two Koyo bearings that I got from eBay seller. EXACTLY IDENTICAL TO YOUR PHOTO. MINUS THE TOYOTA BOX. Brand new !

Although I am still gonna call camelback

 

[4Runner4Leon]

OK, I mean if and when you get around to taking the axle apart again (which you will, because you can't drive it like this ), look at the number stamped in the race.

Let's back up for a second and revisit the situation. You have axial play in the axle. That play should be under about 0.027", so 0.125" is obviously abnormal.

There are only three things that can allow in/out play:

1. The axle shaft is moving inside the inner race - this would be possible if for some reason the combined width of the inner race plus one retainer were narrower than the distance between the axle shoulder and the retainer ring groove. However that does not appear to be the case based on your photos. Moreover, the inner race is press-fit onto the axle shaft, so there is no way that the inner race would slide back and forth on the axle when you push the axle in and out. So we can rule this out.

2. The bearing itself has excess play - this is impossible, no thrust roller bearing can have an 1/8" of play, unless half the balls fell out. So we can rule this out.

3. The outer race is moving inside the housing - this would be possible if the outer race width is much smaller than the combined pocket formed between the bearing case and the housing shoulder, either because something is damaged or it's the wrong bearing. The hub and the housing shoulder are machined, so I'd expect them to be within a few thousands of an inch of the correct dimension. So unless it's the wrong bearing (i.e. outer race is about 1/8" narrower than it needs to be), then there must be a gap between the bearing case and the axle housing shoulder. i.e. they are not properly mated when you bolt them together.

You can try this test when you take everything apart again - pull the bearing off the shaft; put the bearing inside the bearing case; put the bearing case against the axle housing (don't install the backing plate at this point, so you can see better). There should be no gap between the mating machined surfaces of the bearing case and the axle housing. Try pushing in and out on the inner race - you should not be able to push the bearing in and out more than a couple of thousands of an inch. Start with this, and we'll go forward.

 

[kolelt]

New bearing along with new retainer on the way.

 

[kolelt]

Replaced the driver side bearing along with the bearing retainer cup. The axle still has movement in/out about 1/16. Starting to think this is normal.

When I removed the old retainer cup with the “semi old oem bearing”. And just bolted the retainer cup with the bearing inside to the axle housing. The bearing it self did not move in or out. However it had normal movement on the middle race of the bearing in/out. Same as the this NEW OEM BEARING.

I have few videos I’ll upload tomorrow. Long story short. Replacing the bearing retainer cup and bearing did not eliminate any movement. Still has about 1/16 of movement.

The rear diff was rebuilt by ECGS. Just the bearings. So I’m sure they would of told me if something was wrong. Axle shaft looks normal. Plus has not been abused.