rear wheel brake cylinder leak - help

[tek9]

Hello, ;(

Being in a hurry is always bad idea - while working on replacing rear brake shoes I somehow managed to puncture the rear cylinder boot and of course it's leaking. Is it easy to replace just the boot? Or do I need to get a new brake cylinder now? Hints appreciated..

Thanks!

 

[t4r4life]

you cant just break the brake cylinder by breaking the boot, if the fluid came out of the boot then it's already been broken. i would replace the whole thing is easy and cheap.

 

[Drcoffee]

These are inexpensive parts to replace. Go to rockauto.com and you'll find some as cheap as $12 or Aisin brand for $25. Super easy to change as well. Crack the brake line nut, remove the two bolts and then disconnect the brake line. Reconnect the new cylinder and bleed the brake line.

It's also a good time to make sure the E-brake is working well.

 

[nevada]

you cant just break the brake cylinder by breaking the boot, if the fluid came out of the boot then it's already been broken. i would replace the whole thing is easy and cheap.

yup. the boot you can SEE is only a dust boot. if there is fluid behind that, then the cylinder is leaking.

if you change one side, its a very good idea to also change the other.

 

[tek9]

thanks so much for advice. they are a bit more expensive north of the border ($22 per side) but can't really wait to get them shipped from rockauto.

Just finished driver side - new shoes, new cylinder.

I don't like this brake job at all - even replacing steering rack bushings was more fun.

 

[Drcoffee]

I'm sure I'll get some heat for my method but the rear brakes are very easy to work on. You can build the whole assembly on the ground and just place it on the backing plate. Take a picture before you disassemble yours. Then with a screwdriver, pry the spring at the bottom from underneath the bracket. Then release the pins at 3 & 9 O'clock and the whole assembly comes out as a unit. Rebuild the new pads just as you see in your picture and reverse the install. The only change is to lube the backing plate where the shoes touch and close the adjustor screw so the shoes will fit under the drum.

If the shoes will be off for a while, tie a zip strip around the cylinder to hold the pistons in.

 

[tek9]

update: both sides done.

one last question: I've adjusted everything as per FAQs, parking brake works, there's no rubbing, drag or any other noises coming from the back. However after driving in the city for 5-6 miles the drums are pretty hot (not scalding) - at the same time front calipers are way cooler. Is it normal? Do new brake shoes have a 'break-in' period?

 

[nevada]

sounds like they might be adjusted up just a bit too tight.

 

[Kalva]

update: both sides done.

one last question: I've adjusted everything as per FAQs, parking brake works, there's no rubbing, drag or any other noises coming from the back. However after driving in the city for 5-6 miles the drums are pretty hot (not scalding) - at the same time front calipers are way cooler. Is it normal? Do new brake shoes have a 'break-in' period?

The fronts will be cooler because of the disk design, the drums do retain more heat. Where you stomping on the brakes during the 5-6 miles or driving fast?
Also, how snug did you adjust the rear shoes? The drum/wheel should be able to spin with just a small bit of drag. They maybe to tight.

 

[Drcoffee]

Back the tensioner wheel off and use the hand brake to set them to the proper tension. If they are still getting hot, you may need to turn the drums on the lathe to make them true again. These drums are so beefy, there's no reason to replace them.

 

[bak3rme]

same thing happened to me last year. learned a good lesson to take my time when working on the rig, and make sure I have time off incase i do mess up.

easy fix for the cylinder, just buy a replacement from autozone or anywhere and take about 45 mins of your time to replace. its cheap also..around 40 if i remember

 

[tek9]

it was regular city driving, stop and go traffic here and there (but not every intersection). it's not like I can't touch them (they are hot to touch though but I won't burn myself).

maybe I'm just paranoid - jacked up rear wheels, they turn freely. no rubbing noises or anything like that.

 

[Kalva]

maybe I'm just paranoid - jacked up rear wheels, they turn freely. no rubbing noises or anything like that.

As long as you can turn the wheels freely and the parking brake works as it should you are ok. If anything your drive may have took down the pads down on the shoes making extra heat.

 

[Yoter]

you cant just break the brake cylinder by breaking the boot, if the fluid came out of the boot then it's already been broken. i would replace the whole thing is easy and cheap.

If the shoes will be off for a while, tie a zip strip around the cylinder to hold the pistons in.

I have been having issues with my rear drivers side drum locking up since I did my axle seals. The issue seems as thought the self adjustment on the hand brake just keeps on getting tighter and tighter until its completely locked up.
In my attempt to diagnose the issue I removed the brake shoes, And did not know I needed to zip tie the cylinders!:frusty:
Almost immediately brake fluid was squirting across my garage floor.
As soon as I tied up the cylinders they stopped leaking could they still be okay or Does this mean that I definitely need new cylinders?
And if so are there and parts store brands that someone recommends, near me I have Oreilly's Auto Parts, Autozone, and Napa.
Thank You!

 

[Kalva]

I have been having issues with my rear drivers side drum locking up since I did my axle seals. The issue seems as thought the self adjustment on the hand brake just keeps on getting tighter and tighter until its completely locked up.
In my attempt to diagnose the issue I removed the brake shoes, And did not know I needed to zip tie the cylinders!:frusty:
Almost immediately brake fluid was squirting across my garage floor.
As soon as I tied up the cylinders they stopped leaking could they still be okay or Does this mean that I definitely need new cylinders?
And if so are there and parts store brands that someone recommends, near me I have Oreilly's Auto Parts, Autozone, and Napa.
Thank You!

For the cost around $20 each side from any auto store I would just pick up a set. As long as the seals are not leaking you should be ok. Again, some parts are worth changing.