Redarc brake controller install

[LeeBoatright]

Ok so I'm about to install this. Wanted to chime in as folks here and other threads seem to lean towards the Tokonsha 3041-P instead of using be factory harness. There is only one major difference I'm seeing based on website pictures. That's the addition of an eyelet connector to a T'd ground wire. OEM trailer connector document is vague at best, but enough to work

And here's an image off a website for the 3041-P

Notice how the white wire (trailer ground) goes to a second wire, to be manually grounded. That's the only difference besides the tail light feed that I'll get to in a second.

So what I'm thinking is this:

The Black-white wire in the factory harness only connects directly to the 7-way trailer plug and goes no where else. Just a floating wire. (Haven't looked at a wiring schematic, so that's a guess). So it requires to be manually grounded in most applications. Otherwise you'd be counting on the trailer ball as the ground plane connection from truck to trailer in my scenario. Since some folks swear they can't use the OEM harness and somehow the tekonsha works great, that has to be the difference. Maybe Toyota (building a vehicle in Japan) leaves all the wires just open in case there's some other trailer brake controller that uses the ground wire instead of the brake power wire. Who knows. Please correct me if you have solid info instead of my internet speculation.

Secondly: there is the running light feed wire in the OEM harness. I'm willing to bet that's there in case you have a brake controller with some sort of back lighting. That way you can have it be on when the lights are on. It's either that or there's some version of a brake controller that requires tail light feed to operate.

I haven't done the job yet but here's what I'm gonna do:

Redarc BLACK: OEM harness BLACK (12v constant battery feed)

Redarc BLUE: OEM harness YELLOW (trailer brake output)

Redarc RED: OEM harness GREEN-YELLOW STRIPE (12v brake signal)

Redarc WHITE: OEM harness WHITE-BLACK STRIPE (ground) **with additional white wire T'd in, other end having an eyelet and ran to body ground** (such as doubling up wire on one side of a butt connector)

OEM harness GREEN is unused.

I can't vouch for the operation yet, but that's what looks correct. As far as brake lights not coming on with manual application, the Redarc claims it should do it. The manual for it I've read a bunch says the brake signal feed should be connected in a way to "Accept battery voltage input when the brake controller manual over-ride is operated and illuminate at least the trailer brake lights." Meaning if that feed from OEM harness isn't directly tied in with brake lights (like for example if Toyota just added a dedicated on/off 12v power feed off of brake switch and didn't tap into brake light feed) it won't work in the way we expect. I haven't see a diagram to confirm. Also, the tekonsha brake controllers on etrailer.com list an added part needed to gain the "brake light with override" results which would agree with my speculation. If someone has wiring diagram links post them up.

Anyway, long winded. But I'm in the process of preparing the install. Should be done shortly after parts arrive.

4Reak, have you finished this mod yet? I started splicing for my install today and need your input before connecting and taping the harness. Also, what is the approximate total length of your completed harness. Thanks so much for everyone here and their write-ups! We're getting a new camper on 7/4 and must finish this install first.

 

[4Reak Show]

4Reak, have you finished this mod yet? I started splicing for my install today and need your input before connecting and taping the harness. Also, what is the approximate total length of your completed harness. Thanks so much for everyone here and their write-ups! We're getting a new camper on 7/4 and must finish this install first.

So I just got my Redarc controller today and have not had a chance to install. It should be by this weekend. But I'm going to first map it out just as I described above. Does yours have:
A) the factory 7-way in the back?
B) the controller plug prewire near the left front kick panel?
C) if yes to A AND B, do you have the factory brake controller sub harness than was likely in your glove box?

Because for my plan to be implemented, you will all of that. Otherwise, you'll be doing it differently than me.

If you do have A and B but not C, you should be fine with Tekonsha 3041-P and just cut off the flat connector meant for the Tekonsha brake controller and butt connect to the Redarc. Both the Tekonsha and the Redarc use the same 4 wires to operate.

And if you do have A, B and C I'm very confident you need to T in the ground to also incorporate a chassis ground. Or just run the factory add on harness to ground as well as Redarc ground. Same thing.

 

[LeeBoatright]

Wanted octopus for temporary work!

I wish I was an invertebrate when installing the Redarc Tow-Pro. Getting behind the dash around the brake, accelerator, e-brake and steering column is a major b!tch! Nobody said there would be blood. But, it's in and looks professional. Control knob mounted in the blank opening right of the steering column.

 

[4Reak Show]

4Reak, have you finished this mod yet? I started splicing for my install today and need your input before connecting and taping the harness. Also, what is the approximate total length of your completed harness. Thanks so much for everyone here and their write-ups! We're getting a new camper on 7/4 and must finish this install first.

So I finally had a chance to investigate and test the wiring in the 4Runner. It's incredibly straight forward, and other than having a trailer to connect and actually test, I'm certain it will work as intended.

One more time:
Redarc black-OEM black (constant 12v power)
Redarc white extended to eyelet connector for body ground-OEM white/black crimped into the same eyelet for body ground (I tested the stock white black and 7-way plug and both are grounded at all times as is)
Redarc blue-OEM yellow (brake output)
Redarc red-OEM green/yellow (brake pedal input)

While I was messing around I also confirmed that if I manually apply power to green/yellow wire, it activates the 4Runner's brake lights. Meaning: when you manually activate the Redarc (or any brake controller) by pushing the knob, it is supposed to activate that brake light circuit as well as the electric brakes. It appears that would be working without issue so I'm not sure why people above have weird things going on. I have a factory installed tow package and 7-way plug so maybe it has to do with an aftermarket adapter back there or something. For me, it couldn't be more ready. Oh and I also confirmed the final OEM plug wire is a power wire whenever the lights are turned on, so that is likely intended for a backlighting option, which most controllers do no have

 

[ScottC]

I can confirm 4Reak Show your configuration works on a trailer. I just connected your way and it works. I need the redarc to calibrate itself before I take the trailer around but the test in the driveway had all the lights and brakes activate as promised.

 

[4Reak Show]

I can confirm 4Reak Show your configuration works on a trailer. I just connected your way and it works. I need the redarc to calibrate itself before I take the trailer around but the test in the driveway had all the lights and brakes activate as promised.

F*ck yeah. That's great news. Again, I don't see any other way to do it. Not sure why other folks have had issues other than some aftermarket 7-way plug put in or something. I'll be installing mine soon. But I won't have a trailer for quite some time. Back ordered til August/September. Lame.

Thanks for replying with a successful install. Where did you mount the control box portion?

 

[ScottC]

F*ck yeah. That's great news. Again, I don't see any other way to do it. Not sure why other folks have had issues other than some aftermarket 7-way plug put in or something. I'll be installing mine soon. But I won't have a trailer for quite some time. Back ordered til August/September. Lame.

Thanks for replying with a successful install. Where did you mount the control box portion?

I installed it as belchski did in the foot pedal with zip ties and some velcro I had - it's in there nice and tight.

I did buy some heat shrink butt splices which will help hold the wires from coming loose. I'll wrap all of that in electrical tape once I know this works after the calibration.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/189239351@N08/50074114381/in/photostream/" title="IMG_5247"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50074114381_4e54d00e2e_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_5247"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I used the REDARC TPSI-002 Tow-Pro Switch Insert which fit like a charm - no cutting needed.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/189239351@N08/50074114716/in/photostream/" title="IMG_5239"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50074114716_4769d0b777_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_5239"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I didn't have to take the dash apart like belchski on my 2020 5th gen, I just reached up and popped out the factory one with no issues.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/189239351@N08/50073544623/in/photostream/" title="IMG_5238"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50073544623_6889477e91_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_5238"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I considered buying the Tekonsha harness but it seems silly as my 2020 came with a harness to use. I just had to add the small amount of wire for the spare ground that the Tekonsha has as you suggested. Oddly though I used my Tekonsha controller and harness from my tundra a couple of weeks back on the 4Runner and I didn't hook u the ground and had no issues. Of course, I was probably relying on the ground connection on the hitch which isn't the best in the long run.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/189239351@N08/50073545878/in/photostream/" title="IMG_5244"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50073545878_84cea37802_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_5244"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/189239351@N08/50074167721/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_5245"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50074167721_baa795a1a1_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_5245"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

As for the grounding, there is a bolt that ties to the frame on the left side that is easy to access. I know this as my Tekonsha controller on my Tundra had this installed there by the RV shop. Just make sure you place the wire between the washer and the bolt to get a good connection as the bolt/washer is pressing against a plastic part.


The one issue I had was my rig freaked out at me as I unplugged the controller wires and then plugged it back in as I was having issues getting it to work (it was my 7 prong plug on the trailer - it needed some cleaning. I just turned the 4Runner off and on and it was fine.


NOTE: Those who are having issues - check your plug, odds are that is your problem as it sits all winter corroding. Some WD-40 and a small screwdriver to remove some of the corrosion. Better yet use some dielectric grease after you are done to protect the connections.



<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/189239351@N08/50073544643/in/photostream/" title="Annotation 2020-07-03 210316"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50073544643_a2e21a68aa_b.jpg" width="1024" height="469" alt="Annotation 2020-07-03 210316"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[4Reak Show]

Awesome! That's as good a job as any. I just finished up my install. I had pre-fabbed the harness using the same idea with heat shrink butt splices, and also wrapped in 1/2" split loom and some electrical tape. Looks totally great and factory really. Also very overkill. The trick is to stagger your connections so there isn't a lump in the middle. Sorry no picture of that unfortunately.

I also mounted mine on the driver right foot well plastic. It was a tight squeeze and I had to use the 90 degree remote wire end at the controller side to clear the plastic. A couple strips of 3m sticky red tape and 6 zip ties and it was very solid.

I ran the wires on the firewall side instead. The path is: under e-brake bracket, down underneath brake pedal bracket, up over steering colum, over gas pedal and down around the footwell plastic. Using the factory 4Runner harness and the factory Redarc harness I was able to just make it around all that with no additional wire length added. I drew a line to show the path of the Redarc harness in the following picture. I Also added a few zip ties to anchor points. (That wire hanging down in the center of the picture is actually a factory wire for the brake pedal switch, not part of my addition).

For the ground I was able to repurpose an unused factory threaded bold hole just over the left foot well plastic. It was a b!itch to get to but it's for sure a good ground, and again looks like it belongs. White wire loops down out of brake controller harness and loops back up and around to bolt.

I also went with the Redarc bezel which I waited like 2 weeks to get to me. I opted to use some white-out and was able to paint the lettering of the switch bezel.

I mounted it in the unused switch blank to the right of the steering wheel.
1) It's more of a recessed spot which should help avoid bumping it or whatever
2) due to driving manual cars I generally only have my left hand on the steering wheel and rarely my right. So it's better for me to have it accessible with my right hand.

I'll have to wait for a real test once I get the trailer. But again, I've already confirmed complete operation of all the 4runner's wiring so there's no reason for it not to work.

 

[MikeyMTBs]

Man, I’m so glad I purchased the Curt Echo Bluetooth unit and avoided all of this hassle!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[4Reak Show]

Man, I’m so glad I purchased the Curt Echo Bluetooth unit and avoided all of this hassle!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey one person's hassle is another person's hobby. I actually thoroughly enjoy stuff like this so to me it was fun. Plus the end result is awesome.

I never even thought of a Bluetooth option. Maybe I'm too much of a wussy to trust a brake system to an app? Not knocking your decision, more so trying to validate mine.

Either way I'm sure we can agree either option is still better than a normal style brake controller.

 

[shortround13]

Any other advice?
2015 Trail Premium, factory 7 pin in back, factory harness and plug for brake controller.

Wired as mentioned above with solid green wire omitted and extra wire spliced in for ground to body. Tried 2 different ground points under the dash and cleaned the trailer plug connections.

All lights work, headlights & trailer running lights, turn signals/hazards and brake lights with both brake pedal and knob over-ride.

Only problem is once I push the knob I get an ABS, multi terrain and traction light.

Hate to throw in the towel and buy a harness but supposed to leave on a trip in a few days....

*edit* I tested all connections in the harness and they are good, the ground also showed good when holding the meter on the body about a foot away from the ring and clipped to pin on the vehicle side of the harness.
I thought maybe it was because I didn't have the trailer fully hooked up to the rig, just close enough to test the harness, so I hooked the trailer up and did a test drive. Went through the calibration period and then seems to function as normal in both proportional and user-control modes. Push button applies the brakes.
And I've figured out that a 4 second hold on the knob is causing the dash lights to come on. Not sure why a momentary or 3 seconds is fine but any longer than that and the rig doesn't like it.

 

[4Reak Show]

Any other advice?
2015 Trail Premium, factory 7 pin in back, factory harness and plug for brake controller.

Wired as mentioned above with solid green wire omitted and extra wire spliced in for ground to body. Tried 2 different ground points under the dash and cleaned the trailer plug connections.

All lights work, headlights & trailer running lights, turn signals/hazards and brake lights with both brake pedal and knob over-ride.

Only problem is once I push the knob I get an ABS, multi terrain and traction light.

Hate to throw in the towel and buy a harness but supposed to leave on a trip in a few days....

*edit* I tested all connections in the harness and they are good, the ground also showed good when holding the meter on the body about a foot away from the ring and clipped to pin on the vehicle side of the harness.
I thought maybe it was because I didn't have the trailer fully hooked up to the rig, just close enough to test the harness, so I hooked the trailer up and did a test drive. Went through the calibration period and then seems to function as normal in both proportional and user-control modes. Push button applies the brakes.
And I've figured out that a 4 second hold on the knob is causing the dash lights to come on. Not sure why a momentary or 3 seconds is fine but any longer than that and the rig doesn't like it.

So again, I don’t have a trailer to test so I can’t offer any real world advice. All I can tell you is that any basic brake controller or harness appear to do the same thing as the Redarc: constant 12v power in, brake pedal signal in, trailer brake output and ground. There’s no difference I can tell in the Redarc factory harness combo vs a prodigy harness and brake controller combo.

Here’s one thing that did happen to me at work once: it was a newer highlander and we couldn’t get a wireless brake controller to work right. So we hard wired in a prodigy 2 using a universal harness basically exactly as directions say. 12v direct from battery, brake pedal 12v signal with brakes applied, trailer brake output ran directly to aftermarket 7-way and ground ran directly to battery negative. System worked fine. Until you hit the manual override switch and then all sorts of warnings came on. The prodigy would back-feed to brake light circuit to illuminate brake lights, same as the Redarc is designed to do. So functionally, the 2 brake controllers do literally the exact same thing.

What I’m thinking is on the highlander the computer saw brake lights coming on without brake pedal applied so it defied its logic. This doesn’t answer why your 4Runner flags issues since it comes wired from factory ready to go, which should indicate the computer’s logic should be present. I’m curious if there’s any issues with your trailer by chance. Otherwise, I don’t really know. Everything is set up how it’s supposed to be.

Edit: so I googled the issue and it turns out a lot of Toyota’s have the problem uou describe. Apparently the 3041-P harness I dissuaded people from acquiring may have a diode installed. Looking at e-trailer they also recommend some other gizmo same as a dodge or something that will activate trailer brake lights with manual override engaged. So, Tekonsha harness may fix dash warning lights, but will make trailer brake lights not come on with manual override. Other idea is to lightly apply brake pedal with manual override and that would tell the truck you’re commanding brakes. I don’t know of a time when you would want the trailer to do 100% of the braking anyway. Normally trailers the 4Runner can tow have like terrible 10” brakes anyway. I don’t know. But it is annoying as hell to have a factory feature by such a possible flop.

 

[4Reak Show]

I wanted to put up some links in case folks wanted to see the options

Here’s the Tekonsha harness, allegedly a diode is hidden within the wiring. This prevents warning lights, but also prevents brake lights with manual override
Amazon.com: Tekonsha 3041P Proportional Wiring Adapter: Automotive

Here’s the other item that apparently allows trailer brake lights to illuminate with manual override. It looks like it requires an additional run of wire to battery positive. Also claims its for a dodge. But etrailer recommends it.
Amazon.com: Tekonsha 30235-P Brake Control Converter and 7-Way Adapter Kit for RAM: Automotive

Screen shot of etrailer showing the recommendation

 

[shortround13]

Yeah after a few more threads about this and talking to a shop that does brake controller installs who noticed it on a lot of later model Toyotas, I agree with you too.

But I may have figured a work around to get lights and manual brake (technically required here in CA) Excuse the horrible illustration but simplified explanation:

-Diode in the vehicle harness like the store bought versions to prevent back feeding the lights thus keeping the vehicle computer happy

-jump the brake wire to the stop light wire in the trailer
-diode in the trailer wiring to prevent trailer stop lights back feeding through the 7 pin into the vehicle

1. Manual button gets pushed
2. Brakes get activated
3. 12v signal from brake wire jumped to light wire
4. Stop lights come on
5. Diode prevents vehicle lights from coming on
6. Computer stays happy
7. I stay happy

All should work assuming I get the brake light wire and head light wire correct. Or else I'm gonna be locking up the brakes everytime I turn the headlights on

Maybe another diode in the jumper to be sure lights don't activate brakes?

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[4Reak Show]

Yeah I drew up a diagram in which a new wire would run from the brake controller red via a diode (after a primary brake switch feed diode) and then tap into the 7 way brake light feed (hence feeding the trailer lights) and then adding a diode to the original 7 way brake feed wiring blocking a back feed there as well. It’s stupidly irritating. Creating a triangle of diodes essentially so the trailer brake light get fed from truck normally, as well as controller specifically without the controller being able to feed back to the truck. But what else can we expect from a 300,000 mile vehicle potential? I guess we can’t win them all. About to buy a few diodes and play around.

Another thing I thought of in regards to the Redarc specifically, under “proportioning” mode (normal every day driving) pushing the manual override only allows for what they call “light” braking. So from what I gather, manual override would be a pretty minimally effective trait anyway. With a more common brake controller, it would be different, as the farther the level is pulled, the more the brakes are applied. So the entire manual override for the Redarc may not even be all that useful anyhow. If preventing sway is one’s concern, investing in an anti sway weight distribution hitch like equalizer or blue ox would eliminate that most of the time anyhow. And keeping speed low too.

 

[4Reak Show]

Yeah after a few more threads about this and talking to a shop that does brake controller installs who noticed it on a lot of later model Toyotas, I agree with you too.

But I may have figured a work around to get lights and manual brake (technically required here in CA) Excuse the horrible illustration but simplified explanation:

-Diode in the vehicle harness like the store bought versions to prevent back feeding the lights thus keeping the vehicle computer happy

-jump the brake wire to the stop light wire in the trailer
-diode in the trailer wiring to prevent trailer stop lights back feeding through the 7 pin into the vehicle

1. Manual button gets pushed
2. Brakes get activated
3. 12v signal from brake wire jumped to light wire
4. Stop lights come on
5. Diode prevents vehicle lights from coming on
6. Computer stays happy
7. I stay happy

All should work assuming I get the brake light wire and head light wire correct. Or else I'm gonna be locking up the brakes everytime I turn the headlights on

Maybe another diode in the jumper to be sure lights don't activate brakes?

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I wanted to correct a thought for you. You can’t use the brake command wire that feeds the brakes for lighting because the voltage varies according to braking demand. For example: set to 5 out of 10, it only provides max of 6 volts or so to trailer brakes. Therefore using that as a feed for trailer tail lights would have them dim. The whole idea of a proportioning brake controller is to vary braking based on intertial demand since the controller has no idea how hard you’re pushing on the brakes other than using a G-force sensor. Otherwise slowing coming to a stop in the truck with light pressure would allow max trailer brakes always and lock them up.

 

[shortround13]

Good to know. Back to the drawing board.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[4Reak Show]

Good to know. Back to the drawing board.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

The trailer brake light circuit in the 4Runner is a 30 amp circuit, based on fuse size. Which means the Redarc likely won’t be able to power it directly. So for the truck bypass idea to work, there’s gonna need to be a relay to be activated by the Redarc to be safe. I don’t have a schematic for a 5th gen trailer socket/tail/brake lights to verify. It’s starting to look like the $80 magic box Tekonsha makes is worth it.

 

[shortround13]

I was thinking the same relay route, what about a relay triggered by the brake wire that then feeds the stop lights off the 12v power coming from the 7 pin?

 

[4Reak Show]

I was thinking the same relay route, what about a relay triggered by the brake wire that then feeds the stop lights off the 12v power coming from the 7 pin?

So the hard part is that the trailer doesn’t have one brake light. It has 2. And they’re the same as the turn signals on seperate wires at the 7-way. Whereas the 4Runner has seperate lights for turn vs brake. Somewhere they combine in a magic box of some sort to allow the trailer lights to function correctly. So you’d have to tap into the trailer brake light feed before the 7-way where it comes from the brake light feed before that magic box.

The idea or theory is to run an adjacent line along side the OEM brake light feed that comes from the Redarc itself.

So the circuit would look like this:

Brake pedal 12v when brakes applied to >diode 1> to Redarc

Same Redarc wire, but between diode 1 and Redarc >diode 2> (facing opposite way) to relay trigger line (other side of relay trigger goes to ground, anywhere)

Relay switched side: pull 12v power from somewhere, other end (connected when triggered) to OEM 7-way brake light feed BEFORE “magic box” (wherever it is)

Add diode 3 to OEM brake light feed to prevent back feeding there as well BEFORE the tap made in the previous step.

Boy that sounds terribly confusing. I’ll draw up a picture when I have time but I don’t see a way to get around it without 3 diodes and a relay.

Edit: here’s a picture

So when you apply brakes normally it would still activate the new relay, but it’s redundant anyhow. And then when you manually override, flow is blocked on both sides from back feeding. Diode number 3 would need to be heavier I think, like 15 amps or more maybe depending on what the “magic box” does. Diode number 2 is probably unnecessary now that I’m looking at it.

When I refer to a “magic box” I’m referencing the old trailer wire adapters used in older trucks that allow the turn/brake to be combined. Again, an actual wiring diagram would help immensely...

Also, the etrailer converter box I referenced is totally meant for a dodge and is not a plug and play from what I gather. It will require cutting and splicing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk