Reinstalling Crankshaft Pulley

opc11

New member
I went to Autozone to borrow their harmonic balancer installer (free rental btw). They told me to be very careful installing and make sure the woodruff key doesn't fall out. This supposedly fits betwen the inside barrel of the cs pulley and the bolt. But when I pulled the pulley there wasn't a woodruff key in there.

Was autozone wrong? Is there not a woodruff key in there? If there was, I haven't seen a single write up on resinstallation that included any comments. I've attached pictures to help explain.

Any input would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.D
 

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Just about to type the same thing. Bet the key is still on the crankshaft. And they are correct about it. Without the key the pulley will chew up the crankshaft - then it's new engine time or a serious rebuild
 
Yeah, 90% of the key is under the crank gear that drives the timing belt. Only about a 1/4" extends under the pulley. So it's still there if you have not removed the gear.
 
Yeah, 90% of the key is under the crank gear that drives the timing belt. Only about a 1/4" extends under the pulley. So it's still there if you have not removed the gear.

Thanks everyone. After finding it, I felt like an idiot for asking the question.

Thanks again,
 
Do I need a special tool to seat the crankshaft pulley? I pushed it on manually and can feel that it has properly seated w/ the woodruff key. Can I just screw the bolt in or do I need something else?

Thanks
 
Do I need a special tool to seat the crankshaft pulley? I pushed it on manually and can feel that it has properly seated w/ the woodruff key. Can I just screw the bolt in or do I need something else?

Thanks

as long as you get to 218 ft-lbs. ...yes. Blue Loctite on the threads, too. Having this thing come loose causes very bad and expensive things to happen, so doing it right is a good idea. You will need some kind of holder to keep the crank from turning.
 
I was planning on putting the truck in 5th gear, engaging the e-brake, blocking the wheels and torque-ing it up. I thought I read this a while ago... Think it will work?
 
3 years ago my ex called me at work and said my 4runner was making a weird sound. She ended up driving the truck about 5 miles with the bolt loose and the crankshaft pulley spinning freely and gouging the key and inside of the crankshaft pulley. At the time Toyota was the only place to buy a crankshaft pulley so it set me back a sweet $350 plus hours of repair in the middle of the night so I could get to work the next day.
 
I was planning on putting the truck in 5th gear, engaging the e-brake, blocking the wheels and torque-ing it up. I thought I read this a while ago... Think it will work?

I didn't realize you had a manual. That's why we ask folks to put their vehicle info in their sig, it makes it much easier to give good answers to questions. It didn't work for me,(I have a manual) but I later discovered I had a seized bell crank so one wheel was not e-braking. In theory, it works if all is working correctly.
 
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Well, it worked.....a little too good.

The truck didn't budge while I was torquing the bolt. Yeahh.

This was my first experience using a torque wrench. Not really sure if I reached the correct torque (217 ftlbs). I was told it would click when i hit the desired ftlbs. However, it only seemed to click when I would let up a little and it seems the bearings might be a little loose in the ratchet. So I did it again and again and.....snap. The socket adapter 1/2 to 3/8" broke in the socket. I'm 230lbs. Any chance this bolt isn't torqued to 217 ft lbs? BTW it was a brand new adapter.
 
Well, it worked.....a little too good.

The truck didn't budge while I was torquing the bolt. Yeahh.

This was my first experience using a torque wrench. Not really sure if I reached the correct torque (217 ftlbs). I was told it would click when i hit the desired ftlbs. However, it only seemed to click when I would let up a little and it seems the bearings might be a little loose in the ratchet. So I did it again and again and.....snap. The socket adapter 1/2 to 3/8" broke in the socket. I'm 230lbs. Any chance this bolt isn't torqued to 217 ft lbs? BTW it was a brand new adapter.

I would never expect a 3/8" drive anything to stand up to 218 ft-lbs. If it was my truck, I'd spend the $10 to buy a 1/2" drive socket and re-torque for piece of mind, as I would say there is a definite chance it broke before achieving the required torque. There is a reason 3/8" drive torque wrenches usually top out at 100 ft.-lbs. (or less).
 
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Thanks everyone. After finding it, I felt like an idiot for asking the question.

Thanks again,

dont feel like an idiot. because if you dont know you dont know. thats why its good to ask questions. and you did on your part. so that does not make you an idiot!!!!!
 
Thanks guys.

Wasn't aware of the limitation on 3/8" drivers. That's exactly what I was looking for in retrospect. Looks like I've got a bit of biking to do this morning. :bash:
 

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