Removing Fascia to access radio

[T4R_Finally]

I'll be installing a new stereo in my 2000 Ltd. in a couple of weeks. Purchased new unit from Crutchfield so they threw in a matched wiring harness as well. New unit uses factory brackets so it should be an easy install.

Just curious how to remove the fascia the covers the climate control and stereo. I did a google search and found a few youtube videos, but none that showed a 2000 T4R specifically. The closest one I found showed the guy just tilt the 2 vents downward and grab the fascia below the vents and pull it off and down. Will that work on mine? I don't want to go yanking on something and find out there was a screw or two I should have removed first.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Pull it forward from the top which will kind of tilt the top down. Then just work it out, pull gently an you feel it start to come loose. It's not hard, I've had it out in both of my 3rd Gens.

 

[Gerdo]

It's just held in with spring clips that just pop into holes.
I start at the center console, pulling that one off first. Then the shifter one and finally the radio one. I start at the bottom of the radio one and just pull.

 

[T4R_Finally]

Why does the shifter one need to come off to pull the radio out?

 

[KAILUAZ]

^^ What they said, I just repainted all that terrible fake wood grain on my Limited. Make sure you have a small flathead screwdriver ready to remove all the wiring harness clips.

No need to remove the shifter, I think he was talking about the clips near the shifter. Start at the top, then the bottom, then the middle.

 

[Millerad1651]

Your Crutchfield directions will tell you exactly how to do it. I've ordered everything I've ever gotten for any vehicle from them, and this is how they told me. You do start at the armrest trim; then slide the shifter trim underneath that, then finally the main dash trim. That will make it easiest to access all brackets and screws.

 

[Gerdo]

Why does the shifter one need to come off to pull the radio out?

They overlay each other, starting with the rearward one, including the shifter one. You don't remove the shifter, just the plastic bezel around the boot/console.

 

[T4R_Finally]

Your Crutchfield directions will tell you exactly how to do it. I've ordered everything I've ever gotten for any vehicle from them, and this is how they told me. You do start at the armrest trim; then slide the shifter trim underneath that, then finally the main dash trim. That will make it easiest to access all brackets and screws.

Right, i totally forgot about the instructions that crutchfield sends as well. I just crammed everything inside the head unit box and giftwrapped it. Been a while since i ordered from crutchfield but i remember they do try to make it easy.

 

[A.Wilson013]

They overlay each other, starting with the rearward one, including the shifter one. You don't remove the shifter, just the plastic bezel around the boot/console.

Exactly. I have done this MANY times to change lights, wire gauges, etc. etc.

The easiest way is to open up the center console, grab the top of the open for the e-brake handle, and pull up. After that, the shifter console doesn't need to be removed, just moved out of the way enough to get the stereo surround part off.

When removing the stereo surround, there should be:

2 wiring harnesses for the 2 power outlets
1 wiring harness for the ash tray
1 wiring harness for the cig lighter
4? wiring harness up top for the clock, rear window, emergency flasher button thingy, and something else I cannot remember.

Once all of those are undone just toss it in the back seat and have your way with it.

Remember when re-installing that there is a false plug that the harness for the clock LOVES to go in. If you put everything back together and you clock doesn't work, that's the problem.

 

[JWaldz]

Remember when re-installing that there is a false plug that the harness for the clock LOVES to go in. If you put everything back together and you clock doesn't work, that's the problem.

lol i was JUST about to mention that until I saw this.. good tip. I learned the hard way

 

[matthinnant]

If your 4runner is like mine then when you recieve your new stereo and wiring harness you will see 2 harness but there will only be one spot to connect them too, then you have the factory amp installed and all you have to do is unbolt that and disconnect the 2 harnesses for that and you can directly wire the new head unit right in. I wish someone would of mentioned that to me so I didnt sit there scratching my head forever.

 

[T4R_Finally]

If your 4runner is like mine then when you recieve your new stereo and wiring harness you will see 2 harness but there will only be one spot to connect them too, then you have the factory amp installed and all you have to do is unbolt that and disconnect the 2 harnesses for that and you can directly wire the new head unit right in. I wish someone would of mentioned that to me so I didnt sit there scratching my head forever.

Matt, can you expand on that a bit? I assume, since I have a "premium" factory system, I have an amp somewhere if it's not built into the head unit. The new head unit has a built in MOSFET amp. So, are you saying I just need to remove and bypass the factory amp? And where is it exactly? Does the second harness they sent me plug into what was plugged into the output of the factory amp?

 

[A.Wilson013]

The amp is directly behind the stock stereo. The INPUT harness is what should hook up to your new stereo.

Yes, simply unplug and unbolt the amp.

 

[Millerad1651]

There will be two screws holding your factory amp. It is roughy 3x5 in size, an its kind of hanging behind and below the factory stereo. There is one harness plugged into that, and it has two harnesses coming from it. You need to plug the one that goes into the amp into your HU...it confused me at first so I called Crutchfield and they explained it...and you will only have one antennae that plugs into the back of your new HU, although there will be two back there...unless you get an adapter. Again, your instruction from Crutchfield will be spot on.

 

[T4R_Finally]

Thanks. Sorry, though, still a little confused but maybe I just need to see it and see the instructions for it to make sense. This won't be my first rodeo on a factory HU replacement, and usually figure things out pretty well on my own. But it's always nice to know what awaits you before going in, when possible. There was a harness plug in the box with the radio. And I believe there were two that crutchfield supplied. I didn't look at them very close. I just assumed that the one with the radio would be discarded and one of the other two would take its place on the radio end and the other would be connected to the factory wiring and then they would connect to each other. Wouldn't the harness that is plugged into the amp input now, be coming from the factory HU? And the outputs would go to the speakers. So, I would assume what is plugged into the amp input now would go away with the factory HU, as well as the amp itself, and then what currently comes out of the amp would harness directly to the new HU. Am I missing something there?

As far as the antenna's go, it sounds like you all are saying there is more than one back there. Assume that's because of the "diversity antenna"? If I just want to plug the mast antenna into the new HU, is it easy to tell which is which? I'm also assuming there may be some splicing needed to run power to the power antenna. I've seen aftermarket HU's before that support that but I've never needed it before. Seems that wiring is usually documented but not normally included in the harness plug.

 

[Millerad1651]

If it was like mine, you will use the harness from the stereo, and connect that to the 2 harnesses that are supplied from Crutchfield. The two Crutchfield harnesses will go into the back of the new HU, and the single that came with the new radio will plug into the 4Runner's plug. Their diagram will also tell you which lines need to be connected for the power antenna. And you will be able to tell which antenna fits...I believe it was the larger one.

 

[T4R_Finally]

Okay, so the antenna plugs are different sizes? I guess that will explain itself then.

Still not following, logically, on the harnesses but I'm sure it will make more sense when I get in there. If not, that's why I bought from Crutchfield - they will help me out.

Thanks

 

[A.Wilson013]

The larger antenna plug is indeed the one for the mast. You can buy a splitter on Amazon from Schosche (sp?) for like $7 I think... There are threads on here about it.

Good luck!

 

[TheDurk]

I would just like to add that the amp and the air bag brain and wires are in close proximity. To avoid ruining your day, and possible physical injury plus a hefty parts bill, I strongly recommend pulling the battery neg cable and waiting the required 90 seconds before playing around down there.

On the fascia, I find that on my five speed, I can get the trim around the shifters up without pulling the trim behind. Makes things a little faster. The more times it is done, the easier everything comes off.

 

[T4R_Finally]

Thanks Durk. I always pull the battery cables before doing anything to a vehicle involving electrical components. Not specifically to prevent a broken neck from a deployed airbag but that's certainly a valid concern.