Repair costs; rebuild or replace 3VZe

SwiftRunner

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Although I had no trouble delivering a package yesterday to the Amtrak station 70 miles away yesterday and saw 18 m.p.g. highway, I know my engine could use some serious work. The rear main seal has a horrible leak and it isn't getting better. It has trouble cold starting. The exhaust reaks of gasoline. (I suspect something internal like the rings.) The head gasket has an oil leak. Finally, there 162 K hard miles on the bucket of bolts. Might not it be better to hire a guy to tear the thing apart and rebuilt it than be repair specific? Could it possibly be to my advantage to just buy a rebuilt engine and pay someone to replace this one?
 
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Before you come to terms with rebuilding or replacing your motor I would do a compression check on your motor. Maybe it's a combination of small things that's irritating you to the bone and making you think you need a new motor.

The exhaust smelling like gasoline... This could be something as simple as your o2 sensor not working as it should and allowing your runner to run a little rich.

The rear main seal... EASY. Drop the tranny and pull the flywheel and you'll have easy access to the rear main.

Cold starting... Most likely an electrical issue, so getting a new motor isn't going to solve this unless you replace all associated electronics on the motor.

My suggestion would be to do a compression check and see how much life your pistons, rings and cyl walls have left in them. Just because your motor has 170k miles or so doesn't mean it's old and tired. Then fix the small things if your compression checks out.
 
That is what I thought. However, I have been loading the gas up with STP fuel injector cleaner. Whatever, in two days I will be in Florida and screwing around with another vehicle. This one will be put up for the winter. (I may use it if I return in January.)
 
As many have advised here in the forum, the 3.0 is a ****....I'm not even going to consider a rebuild, or even a replacement, my head is pointed in the "overkill is much better" direction...a 350 Chev will find a home between the fenders of mine (94 auto 3.0). The guy that does my machine work even advised (after owning a 93 3.0) that the expense and time isn't worth it. The small block will give me more power for the dollar, and with fuel injection, the mileage that I'm getting now or more.
350/350 auto, and when the straight axle kit goes in...axles of choice from the same totalled Chev 4x4 pickup.
Just my 3.0 cents worth
 
do a compression check...itll give you a better idea of whats going on...i agree on doing a motor swap if the parts are available..like a 3.4 swap just buy a wrecked taco or something cause youll find it much better to have the whole vehicle rather than just the motor ecu etc etc...

if not you could always rebuild the 3.0 and be done with it
 
im one of the few that would keep the 3.0 properly maintain, it not a power house but it has been reliable. 220000 miles on original hg, didnt fall under the recall so i got lucky in a way because the early 3.0 used better hg material
 
Thanks for the responses. I find them interesting. I'll do the compression test when I return from Florida. Being a '94 they don't require a stringent emission test so that's why it passed last spring. However, if you want to kill someone just sit them inside with all the windows closed and the "engine" running.
 

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