Replaced JBL Sub/Added Amp: Install Pics/Info

Riverwolf, based on your suggestion of the RE Audio sub can you also suggest an appropriate amp for it? I do not have a JBL system so I am starting from scratch. I am currently running a kenwood ddx372bt head unit with JBL GT7-6c in the front doors, planning to put something similar in the back doors. Just looking for some added base not something that will rattle the fillings out of mouth.

I'd say anything capable of more than 200 watts continuous into 4 ohms is probably wasted money. Then it's just a matter of deciding where you want to mount it and finding something that fits.

Years ago, someone identified the chip amp being used for each channel in the JBL amp. IIRC, the real world clean output was only about 20 wpc...so the sub driver would get at most 40 watts (20x2 channels). The big Toyota-JBL marketing spec was rated using the10-20% distortion output. So, realistically, anything above 100 watts is going to be more than capable of overpowering your main speakers if you're still using the factory amp. Proper level matching of the new sub amp will be required to maintain sound quality with the factory amp/speakers.
 
First off, a huge thanks to those who helped me choose the setup and helped teach me how to install. This was my first sub/amp install, and everything went smoothly after a lot of help from some of you. Thanks!

After seven years and 130k miles, the stock JBL sub in my 4runner finally let go. I love some bass with the music, but just clean/audible bass. So, I chose to replace the stock JBL sub instead of just adding another (also didn't want to loose cargo space). I did a lot of searching, and I found several real good threads, but most I found never showed the end result. So, I'm gonna try to sum up my findings and my install in this post, maybe it'll help someone else out.

First up, specs on the stock system. The sub is a 8" JBl with 2 ohm dual voice coils. The amp puts out ~90 watts max, estimated 45 watts rms. The stock sub is ~3" mounting depth.
Second, I chose to replace with JL Audio equipment. I've always heard good things about JL, and after the install I see why, very impressed. I went with a JL 8w1v2 sub (150 watts rms) and J2 250.1 amp (puts out 175 watts rms).
Third, wiring. I tapped into the rear DC outlet for my turn on wire. I tapped into the speaker wires right before entering the sub box and connected to my speaker level inputs on the amp. I cut out a spot on the box and added a speaker terminal plate for easy and quick connection. I did this directly behind the amp, mainly just because it was the only place I had room. I used the bolt for the seat to make the ground. I ran the power wire back, then across the firewall, in through a factory hole. I ran all wires down through the trim, then under the carpet and out in the cutout for the air vent under the passenger front seat.
And fourth, here are a few threads that really helped me out.

EDIT: It looks like the web site I used that showed how to access the sub is no longer working. I do have this process saved in a word file, if you need it PM me your e-mail and I will send it to you. Dannyg did the install and also has a writeup, which can be found here.

JL Audio - Car Audio Systems
And several more that gave me specs on the stock system, don't have links to them.
The end result sounds excellent. It's not gonna shake the car next to you, but it gives some great quality bass that was lacking with the stock sub. Let me know what you think, and just let me know if you have any questions.
Ok, so here are the install pics.
The equipment:
IMG_1149.jpg~original

Stock setup:
IMG_1150.jpg~original

Sub removed:
IMG_1153.jpg~original

Sub comparison:
IMG_1155.jpg~original

Modified box for clearance, sub liked about 1/4 inch fitting.
IMG_1160.jpg~original

Sub installed:
IMG_1164.jpg~original

Wiring:
IMG_1165.jpg~original

IMG_1166.jpg~original

Finished with amp:
IMG_1186.jpg~original

Fuse holder:
IMG_1180.jpg~original

Finished sub:
IMG_1178.jpg~original
Hey I'm just doing the stock sub replacement, what did you do with the wires that were plugged into the original sub?
 
Great write up Ark Swamp Rider! I'm looking to do the same thing on my wife's 2013 Trail edition with a new JL sub and an old Rockford Fosgate Punch 250 amp I still have from a setup I had ages ago, but I'm wondering how you went about splicing the RCAs into the factory setup. Were there RCAs running to the factory amp from the head unit or was it a direct-wired connection? If it had RCAs, I assume you just used a splitter, but if not, how did you go about it and is the signal clean or did the splice create some interference? Thanks in advance!
 
Hey guys i need advice, have read lots on this topic but still need confirmation.

blown sub in 2006 T4R limited. Kenwood DDX470
I plan to change sub only (cost reason). please advise on the best SW that would fit. I would be doing the install myself.
 
I recently replaced the whole system but the sub was a Kenwood KFC-XW800F and a 5 channel Alpine PDR-V75 5 channel amp.

Sub was a straight forward drop in. No modification of any kind. I did put in some dacron to dampen the box though. Works great and lots of thump.
 

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I recently replaced the whole system but the sub was a Kenwood KFC-XW800F and a 5 channel Alpine PDR-V75 5 channel amp.

Sub was a straight forward drop in. No modification of any kind. I did put in some dacron to dampen the box though. Works great and lots of thump.

This setup looks nice, that is one pricey Amp (at least on Crutchfield).

Still trying to figure out if I'm just going to replace the Sub and stay with stock amp.

or replace both... thing is I want an amp that fits in the factory location and doesn't require a whole lot of modification to fit.
 
Still trying to figure out if I'm just going to replace the Sub and stay with stock amp.

or replace both... thing is I want an amp that fits in the factory location and doesn't require a whole lot of modification to fit.

Same here. Originally I was going to retain the JBL amp. But I'm now trying to assess how much work it'd take me to connect all of the speakers to a new amp.
 
I ordered the shallow mount Pioneer 8" Sub from Amazon. A couple reviewers on there have 4th Gen 4Runners and only replaced the sub keeping stock JBL amp, saying that the Pioneer is as good or better than stock JBL sub.

Going to give it a shot, I'm not wasting any money if it doesn't sound good. I'll add an amp if I need to down the road. Can't sound worse than it does now!

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SW2002D2-8-inch-Shallow-Mount-Subwoofer/dp/B00JQTU434
 
Doesn't the Metra 70-8117 allow you to use your existing speaker wiring?

That's what I thought, but I'm being told by 2 sources that the crossover configuration won't work with a replacement amp. Puzzled as to why so many have installed the small Alpine amp and done just fine.
 
I ordered the shallow mount Pioneer 8" Sub from Amazon. A couple reviewers on there have 4th Gen 4Runners and only replaced the sub keeping stock JBL amp, saying that the Pioneer is as good or better than stock JBL sub.

Going to give it a shot, I'm not wasting any money if it doesn't sound good. I'll add an amp if I need to down the road. Can't sound worse than it does now!

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SW2002D2-8-inch-Shallow-Mount-Subwoofer/dp/B00JQTU434

So it's been a couple weeks since you posted about ordering the Pioneer sub and sticking with the stock JBL amp. How has that worked for you? My factory sub crapped the bed, and I have to replace it. I'm really interested to hear about how yours turned out.
 
Polarity

Yep, that is correct. There are 4 wires going into the factory sub, and 4 wires on the converter. I hooked them together, you do not join multiple wires into one.

Any way to visually tell which is +/- on the wires going to the sub? On my 2007, I have a Yellow/Pink and Pink/blue set on one voice coil and a green/brown and black/brown set on the other coil. I'd like to determine which is positive and negative within each set.

EDIT: I tested the wires on the existing speaker with a 9V battery after i yanked it out. The Yellow/Ping and Green/Brown within each set are negative.
 
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Well I finished the install tonight. Man, that is a big difference. I went with a rockford fosgate r500x1d amp and a kicker 8 inch DVC sub, wired to 4 ohms (300 amps). I had to drill new holes for the sub, but the depth was shallow enough i didn't need to trim the box. I'm still dialing it in to balance the rest of the system, but the gain will end up being between 3-4. I added some sound deadening behind the sub box, i'll use the rest on the wheel well and cargo area floor. Thanks for this write-up!
 
2007 4Runner blew its sub today. Rattling pretty bad. I got a Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8-inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max Power to replace it. Looking in the back I see there looks to be a panel that pops out instead of taking the whole panel off. Is that possible or do I have to remove the whole side panel?
 

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I would like to cut the wire(s) to the sub woofer if possible, not looking to dig into the panel, is this possible. Any help appreciated.
 

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