Replacing LCA + Bolts

[Seattle206]

Looking at one of my LCA bushings there appears to be some small cracks/tears in the driver side front bushing. Rig has 34k miles on it and has seen plenty of trail time, mostly forest roads though. I also get a random "pop" noise coming from the front suspension once in a while when I do a slow turn like backing out my driveway. Sometimes it will make this sound, sometimes not. I've had the LCA bolts torqued to 129ft/lbs(not easy to do when laying on the ground). I've also checked the following for play and looseness. All good and torqued per Toyota specs. This "pop" noise started a month ago after I installed my JBA UCA and had an alignment by Firestone who did not torque the LCA bolts tight enough. The loose bolts gave me a bad creaking noise and "pop" every time I accelerated/brake or when turning at parking lot speeds. Since then I had an independent shop do another alignment, torqued to specs, then I re-torqued them again at home to make sure everything is still tight a week later. All the acceleration/braking creak stopped but this intermittent "pop" noise is heard now and then. Not bad, but I'm sorta OCD when it comes to these things. The "pop" noise sounds like something is being held in position and let go creating that sound, almost like a binding noise. Again, this noise was never present until my whole Firestone loose LCA bolts fiasco. The noise doesn't effect the drive-ability of the rig, just annoying things I want to resolve.

1) Tie-rods, tight and joints are good.
2) End-links, no play.
3) CV's, no play or noise.
4) UCA balljoint, good. Less then 1k on them with these JBA UCA's.
5) Sway bar, bushings are good. There is not contact with the coils as I have the location bracket on them. There is no contact with either the skid plate or radiator support brackets when I put spacers to lower them brackets/skid.
6) UCA bolts are torqued to spec while level on ground. There is no binding.
7) Coilover bolts all tightened to 24ft/lbs(top bolts) and 100ft/lbs(lower bolts). All torqued with tires on ground.

I'm suspecting that the intermittent "pop" noise is coming from the bushings. The lower ball joint look fine and I couldn't get any play out of them when the rig was on the lift. Tried using a pry bar in between the LCA/Frame and couldn't replicate any LCA noise. Hopped in and turned the wheels at full lock, hand spun the tires, still can't replicate the noise.

So I'm listing out everything I need to re-do the LCA but having a bit of trouble with itemizing the LCA bolts. Will throw in new end-links as well while I am at it. Here is my list so far but I know I am missing some parts to complete the LCA bolts. I only use Toyota OEM parts.

Left Side Parts:

Lower Control Arm, LEFT
Part Number: 48069-60040

Lower Control Arm Adjust Bolt, LEFT
Part Number: 48190-60040

Lower Control Arm Adjust Cam, LEFT
Part Number: 48452-60020

Lower Control Arm Adjust Bolt, LEFT
Part Number: 48409-60040

Right Side Parts:

Lower Control Arm, RIGHT
Part Number: 48068-60040

Lower Control Arm Adjust Bolt, RIGHT
Part Number: 48409-60040

Lower Control Arm Adjust Cam, RIGHT
Part Number: 48198-60020

Lower Control Arm Mount Bolt, RIGHT
Part Number: 90119-16005

 

[honda250xtitan]

quality sawzall blades just in case its all seized would be a good idea IMO. last thing you wanna do is put everything back together just to buy blades for one seized bolt/bushing. and beer.

have you disconnected the sway bar and try to replicate the pop just to be sure its not a sway bar end link? easier fix then LCA's.

 

[Unner]

I'm not an expert, but replacing LCAs on a 2014 with only 34k miles seems unnecessary. I replaced mine on my 2001 at 190k something because I also had a noise that I thought was from the front suspension. It didn't solve the problem and mine weren't in bad shape. The problem was my transfer case bumping my skid plate...

Also, shouldn't your truck still be under warranty?

 

[Seattle206]

Still under warranty but it has aftermarket coilovers/UCA's so I haven't bothered calling the dealership yet. I guess it won't hurt to try since I still have 2k miles left on the warranty. Just hate stealerships. The end-links "look" and "felt" good when I took them off for examination. No free play, no tears on the boot. Might need to take off the sway and see if it helps.

 

[honda250xtitan]

Still under warranty but it has after coilovers/UCA's. Haven't bothered calling the dealership yet.

are bushings "wear and tear" like tires, brakes, battery? and other stuff? cause then it wouldn't be covered anyways.

 

[Seattle206]

They are wear and tear items so they won't cover them if it were the bushings. I just can't think of anything else that can be causing the noise. Replacing the whole LCA is fairly easy(if the bolts aren't seized) but installing just new LCA bushings is what I want to avoid even though it's a lot cheaper. Plus with new LCA's I'll have new lower ball joints as well.

Will try the sway bar removal and see if that does anything.

 

[Jeremy556]

I highly doubt your noise is caused by LCA bushings, especially with seriously low miles. Mine are fine with 180k miles of abuse.

My recommendations:
1. remove all skid plates - these are often my culprit
2. remove front bumper, or at least stick some rubber material between the bumper and front fenders. My front bumper has over 1" clearance and it still hits the fenders, often.
3. remove sway bars

 

[Seattle206]

Found out it was the endlinks. Both links oozing with grease after I went some small trails today. Took off the sway and the noise is gone. Going to order new oem links.

 

[jbstrd]

Found out it was the endlinks. Both links oozing with grease after I went some small trails today. Took off the sway and the noise is gone. Going to order new oem links.

You might just run it without a front sway bar and see how you like it. With heavier coils in the front it shouldn't have too much extra body roll. Just takes some getting used to.