Replacing Valve Cover Gaskets - A True Write Up - **PICTURES**

Tackling this job in the next week or so. Installing a TRD supercharger and figured I'd do this while I had it apart. They needed to be done anyway.

I have the valve cover grommets, valve cover gaskets with spark plug tubes, and the cam plugs.

Judging from this OP, there's only 2 cam plugs? One on each head, in the rear? And then just remove and reseal the half moons?

Yes, just two cam plugs on the rear of the heads. And yes, you can pull the half moons out, clean the old sealant off them and the head, apply new sealant and reinstall.
 
You know, while the valve covers are off the valve clearance should be checked. Expecialy if you hear light ticking or clattering that goes away when warm, or don't know if it's ever been done before


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This may be a stoopid question but while you have this thing off would it be a good idea to just keep ripping stuff out and replace the head gaskets while you're at it as preventative maintenance, kind of like the timing belt?

PS have you ever considered a career as a hand model?

I am a great foot model :kiss:
 
You know, while the valve covers are off the valve clearance should be checked. Expecialy if you hear light ticking or clattering that goes away when warm, or don't know if it's ever been done before


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a great point. I'm doing my valve covers soon and will be checking the clearances. Fingers crossed on not having to change out the shims because then I would have to get the special $70 tool.
 
This is a great point. I'm doing my valve covers soon and will be checking the clearances. Fingers crossed on not having to change out the shims because then I would have to get the special $70 tool.



If only your exhaust valves are out its easier to just pull the cam. Just line up the dots on the cam gears for the side your pulling and remove it. I'm in agreement with others here that mostly the exhaust is what needs reshimed my intakes were perfect. However, someone in the past preformed at least 1 adjustment because I found a cam bearing bolt stripped on each head. And sadly it was the same thrust bearing bolt on each.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Torque the valve cover bolts down to


I think you have a typo here. Valve cover bolts should be torqued to 53 inch-lbs (4.4 ft-lbs). Page 870 (section EM-58) of the FSM.

That picture is for torque of the intake manifold assembly, which has bigger bolts/more torque.
 
Thanks for posting this! I just did my valve cover gaskets this weekend ordered everything off your list and followed it step by step. Took me about 6 hours including a lunch break. No more burnt oil smell
 
I think you have a typo here. Valve cover bolts should be torqued to 53 inch-lbs (4.4 ft-lbs). Page 870 (section EM-58) of the FSM.

That picture is for torque of the intake manifold assembly, which has bigger bolts/more torque.
good correction. 13ft lbs will break the valve covers...

Sent from my Acer Chromebook R11 (CB5-132T / C738T) using Tapatalk
 
Awesome write-up [MENTION=122940]ramonortiz55[/MENTION], I just finished this project this past Friday. A few tips for people who decide to do this:

-The plastic covers for the wire harness that runs over both sides are very brittle. Make sure you remove them before you take the valve covers off so pieces don't fall in. No matter how careful you are, parts will break off.

-I used Extreme Tape to wrap the wires. This silicone wrap is rated up to 500 degrees, that is plenty of protection from the heat. If you've never heard of Extreme Tape, just Google it and you will find plenty of info on it.

-With the plastic wire harness covers removed, your ability to remove and install the driver's side valve cover makes it a breeze. It's pretty amazing how much room you gain from removing that "restrictive" plastic cover.

-Silicone lube spray is your friend! Silicone is safe for plastic and rubber, petroleum based products are not. By just dabbing a little silicone spray on rubber seals helps seat them. This came in really handy for the spark plug tube seals. I didn't even have to bend up the tabs to remove the old ones and install the new ones.
 
Awesome write-up [MENTION=122940]ramonortiz55[/MENTION], I just finished this project this past Friday. A few tips for people who decide to do this:

-The plastic covers for the wire harness that runs over both sides are very brittle. Make sure you remove them before you take the valve covers off so pieces don't fall in. No matter how careful you are, parts will break off.

-I used Extreme Tape to wrap the wires. This silicone wrap is rated up to 500 degrees, that is plenty of protection from the heat. If you've never heard of Extreme Tape, just Google it and you will find plenty of info on it.

-With the plastic wire harness covers removed, your ability to remove and install the driver's side valve cover makes it a breeze. It's pretty amazing how much room you gain from removing that "restrictive" plastic cover.

-Silicone lube spray is your friend! Silicone is safe for plastic and rubber, petroleum based products are not. By just dabbing a little silicone spray on rubber seals helps seat them. This came in really handy for the spark plug tube seals. I didn't even have to bend up the tabs to remove the old ones and install the new ones.

Hi,

I didn't really understand your post. You broke the plastic wire harness cover off; and instead wrapped the wires in Extreme Tape?
 
Hi,

I didn't really understand your post. You broke the plastic wire harness cover off; and instead wrapped the wires in Extreme Tape?

Yes, that is correct. The way I figured it the plastic will get more brittle over time so I dealt with now than later. Some people will even take it further and cover them with Hi Temp split loom.
 
Thanks for the write up. I have had the parts for this job for a few months. I reckon I will wait til its about 95 degrees and 110 percent humidity to get er dun...

As a point of reference, I got pricing on this job a week ago.

Dealer quoted $485, indie shop was at $455.
 
uggg.......this does not look fun. Im mechanically inclined but GEEEZZZZ......:fear:

possibly picking up a 00' limited with 201k with the drivers side valve cover leaking.

maybe i'll just pay the shop:behindsofa:


question: someone said they replaced the passenger side valve cover in 15 minutes.....should i run scared?
 
Last edited:
reply

Wow. The level of detail within this forum continues to amaze me. It's so refreshing to have such a wonderful group of 4R enthusiasts all in one place.

Keep up the great work, folks.
 
uggg.......this does not look fun. Im mechanically inclined but GEEEZZZZ......:fear:

possibly picking up a 00' limited with 201k with the drivers side valve cover leaking.

maybe i'll just pay the shop:behindsofa:


question: someone said they replaced the passenger side valve cover in 15 minutes.....should i run scared?

No, not something I'd call fun. I just did this job last month along with the timing belt/WP. Not difficult by any means, just lots of nuts/bolts tubing. The wiring harness is a medium PITA to work around. I did not touch the 1/2 moons but did replace the cam plugs/PVC grommet/spark plug seals.
Upon completion, some family matters forced a 2000 mile test drive over the following 3 days. No leaks!
As far as the 15min pass. side VCG job, I suppose it's possible but don't expect to do it your 1st time.
 
Wow. The level of detail within this forum continues to amaze me. It's so refreshing to have such a wonderful group of 4R enthusiasts all in one place.

Keep up the great work, folks.

Indeed. T4R=awesome.

But, shot out to bulletin board technology and the interwebs too :P
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top