Daohaus
New member
thanks, definitely making sure that it's sitting int he channel nicely.
i'll try to tighten it and see if it rotates itself or if i should revert back to manually rotating it
Rhino-Rack Install Write Up
- Thread starter On Point
- Start date
thanks, definitely making sure that it's sitting int he channel nicely.
i'll try to tighten it and see if it rotates itself or if i should revert back to manually rotating it
SnowYeti
Member
I did two things
Held it pushed up as I tightened by hand as mention
Also there was very light friction between the bolt and the t-slot nut. I added some blue thread locker and let it dry for about an hour. This really helped to make sure the nut rotated. Frankly I was getting pretty frustrated before I did this
Daohaus
New member
Man, i feel you on that frustration.
The one I was having problems with was the driver's side crossbar closest to the driver's door. I looked and the crossbar channel wasn't in perfect alignment with the backbone so it made the rotation of the t-nut that much more difficult. I loosened up that bolt that secured the crossbar and tapped it into place and it worked out.
So glad it's over because it was getting on my nerves.
OCTT4R
New member
I took your advice. I like them. They are functional AND they look good. Thanks for the recommendation. Now I’m just waiting for the lift kit to come in and then I’ll be done...maybe
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DanHampton
New member
I thought that too, then came the gobi ladder, the ko2's, accessories for the rack, sliders...... It'll never end .
SnowYeti
Member
I am wrapping up my custom fairing. I used most of the hardware and parts supplied for the Rhino version (which was a terrible design) and flipped them to the top. Designed a 1/8th in aluminum fairing and had it water jet cut, then bedliner. I have a SS hardware sent out to PCbolts for black powder coating.
Wind noise is drastically reduced, very close to no rack levels. Highway speeds with the sunroof open are no longer an issue. Once I get my RTT I will post more photos showing how it will divert the air over it.
Wind noise is drastically reduced, very close to no rack levels. Highway speeds with the sunroof open are no longer an issue. Once I get my RTT I will post more photos showing how it will divert the air over it.
Attachments
Issues with backbone, not the platform.
Trying to install the Rhino Rack Backbone on my '16 trail and found the mounting holes in the backbone are smaller than the white plastic threaded tubing that they mount to on the 4runner. I had assumed the white tubes would fit into the mounting holes of the backbone, but they do not.
According to Rhino Rack, the backbone sits on the threaded tubes and the white threaded tubing will be pushed into the roof of the 4runner when the backbone is tightened down.
I asked if the backbone could be removed without the threaded tubing falling into the headliner and Rhino Rack said, "We have never had to remove a backbone and are unsure if the threaded tubing would be accessible if the backbone was ever removed."
Is this how everyone has installed their backbone rails?? They sit on top of the white threaded tubes and are tightened down until the tubes are pushed into the roof?
My apologies for posting on an old thread. I'm at a loss as to how this makes sense or how to proceed...but I"m no genius. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Trying to install the Rhino Rack Backbone on my '16 trail and found the mounting holes in the backbone are smaller than the white plastic threaded tubing that they mount to on the 4runner. I had assumed the white tubes would fit into the mounting holes of the backbone, but they do not.
According to Rhino Rack, the backbone sits on the threaded tubes and the white threaded tubing will be pushed into the roof of the 4runner when the backbone is tightened down.
I asked if the backbone could be removed without the threaded tubing falling into the headliner and Rhino Rack said, "We have never had to remove a backbone and are unsure if the threaded tubing would be accessible if the backbone was ever removed."
Is this how everyone has installed their backbone rails?? They sit on top of the white threaded tubes and are tightened down until the tubes are pushed into the roof?
My apologies for posting on an old thread. I'm at a loss as to how this makes sense or how to proceed...but I"m no genius. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Arishtat
New member
Yes it is okay to perch the backbone rails on top of the plastic bolt sleeves. They will compress as you tighten the bolts to secure the backbone rails to the roof.
One thing I strongly recommend is to go heavy on the butyl tape and waterproofing of the holes. One of my friends recommended this to me after she had to re-do her installation because water got into the headliner of her FJ. When I did mine I put down a double layer of tape and injected silicone into the bolt holes. It’s been five months and no evidence of leaking.
One other thing that I did was to swap out the provided channel nuts with ones that have springs on the back (they’re standard M8 by the way). On my first install attempt I had a terrible time getting the channel nuts to stay square in the channels while I started the bolts on them.
Also I mounted my rack well forward to clear the tailgate ladder so I had to raise it up to clear the roof antenna. I did so with machined aluminum spacers and stainless steel fender washers to provide a generous perch for the c-channel.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One thing I strongly recommend is to go heavy on the butyl tape and waterproofing of the holes. One of my friends recommended this to me after she had to re-do her installation because water got into the headliner of her FJ. When I did mine I put down a double layer of tape and injected silicone into the bolt holes. It’s been five months and no evidence of leaking.
One other thing that I did was to swap out the provided channel nuts with ones that have springs on the back (they’re standard M8 by the way). On my first install attempt I had a terrible time getting the channel nuts to stay square in the channels while I started the bolts on them.
Also I mounted my rack well forward to clear the tailgate ladder so I had to raise it up to clear the roof antenna. I did so with machined aluminum spacers and stainless steel fender washers to provide a generous perch for the c-channel.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ragin_cajun
New member
Yes it is okay to perch the backbone rails on top of the plastic bolt sleeves. They will compress as you tighten the bolts to secure the backbone rails to the roof.
One thing I strongly recommend is to go heavy on the butyl tape and waterproofing of the holes. One of my friends recommended this to me after she had to re-do her installation because water got into the headliner of her FJ. When I did mine I put down a double layer of tape and injected silicone into the bolt holes. It’s been five months and no evidence of leaking.
One other thing that I did was to swap out the provided channel nuts with ones that have springs on the back (they’re standard M8 by the way). On my first install attempt I had a terrible time getting the channel nuts to stay square in the channels while I started the bolts on them.
Also I mounted my rack well forward to clear the tailgate ladder so I had to raise it up to clear the roof antenna. I did so with machined aluminum spacers and stainless steel fender washers to provide a generous perch for the c-channel.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[MENTION=168791]Arishtat[/MENTION] Do you know what size unistrut nuts you used? I can't stand the factory Rhino design and would like to do something similar to the ones you are showing.
Arishtat
New member
Wow, um, yeah, dunno how I missed this but they're M8x6mm channel nuts.
Amazon.com: uxcell M8 x 6mm 304 Stainless Steel Spring Channel Nuts 5pcs for Unistrut Channels: Home Improvement
Can someone with the pioneer platform installed measure the distance from the back of the platform to the rear hatch when it's open?
I'm planning on ordering the platform this weekend, and I'd like to add a ladder on the rear hatch as well. I contacted BajaRack, about their ladder's compatibility with the Pioneer platform and the response was as long as there is 3" of space between the open hatch and the platform, their ladder would work.
Does anyone currently use the Pioneer platform with a BajaRack ladder?
Sorry to add on to an old thread, but I'm a brand new member and this is my first post. Not allowed to start a new thread yet. I have a 2015 SR5 4runner.
I'm planning on ordering the platform this weekend, and I'd like to add a ladder on the rear hatch as well. I contacted BajaRack, about their ladder's compatibility with the Pioneer platform and the response was as long as there is 3" of space between the open hatch and the platform, their ladder would work.
Does anyone currently use the Pioneer platform with a BajaRack ladder?
Sorry to add on to an old thread, but I'm a brand new member and this is my first post. Not allowed to start a new thread yet. I have a 2015 SR5 4runner.
Depends on how far forward you have the platform mounted to the mounting points. I have the backbone system, and there is less than an inch of clearance from the rear 'spoiler' to the platform.
Welcome to the forums!
Thanks! I've been quietly stalking the forums for a long time - have learned a lot!
Less than an inch is what I was afraid of... With the shark fin antenna back there, I guess there's only so far that you can move the platform forward. I had actually already started looking at possibly removing the shark fin, and installing one of those magnetic antenna's closer to the front of the vehicle. Then maybe I could move the platform forward enough to make it work. A good bit of conflicting info out there though on whether the shark fin has just the satellite antenna or gps as well.
With less than an inch of space, I can't imagine any ladder out there would work without contact.
I would personally keep the fin where it is - mainly for moisture purposes. It fits perfectly under the rhino platform as well. I would use the money you were going to spend on the ladder, and put that towards some rock sliders. The sliders are more than high enough to reach anything on the rack. If I need to be higher than that, I step on the tires.
I have never seen nor used this product, so can't vouch for it.
Door Jamb Step for Reaching Roof
02RunnerAZ
New member
RTT On Platform
Hopefully this finds you, haha. I was curious how you mounted your RTT to the paltform. I'm looking at this rack for my 3rd Gen and I'll probably pair it with a Tepui RTT. I watched a youtube of a guy mounting one but he had to drill new holes in the bottom of his tent. Did you have to make any mods to mount your RTT?
Hopefully this finds you, haha. I was curious how you mounted your RTT to the paltform. I'm looking at this rack for my 3rd Gen and I'll probably pair it with a Tepui RTT. I watched a youtube of a guy mounting one but he had to drill new holes in the bottom of his tent. Did you have to make any mods to mount your RTT?
ragin_cajun
New member
I don't think you will get a full 3", it would be very close. I'm running a Greenlane ladder which needs a 1 5/8" clearance and I had to readjust the rack and slide it forward.
I can get accurate measurements for you this weekend, or I'm happy to text you some pictures.
How is everyone mounting RTT on the pioneer platforms? Looking to mount a yakima sky rise medium.
Just Loaf It
New member
Sorry for reviving an older post, but [MENTION=145989]Nightglow[/MENTION] did you use the Rhino-rack brand awning brackets to mount your ARB awning? I'm looking for a low-profile way to mount my ARB awning to my Pioneer platform and I like the way your setup looks.
DarthYota
Member
I'd bookmarked this thread as a resource when I was looking at purchasing racks. In case anyone else comes here looking for info, I figured I would comment.
I am a HUGE sunroof person. Havent had a car without one since I was 16. There was no way to get the backbone system without the 76in or longer rack. It covered about 2/3 of the sunroof which was too much for me. I ended up getting an aluminum blade for my circular saw and chopping 8in off the front of the rack. Now I have the best of both worlds, great rack and full sunroof access. The only downside was that I lost the front slide-in points for the c-channels, but it's not too hard to work around.
Side view pic.
I have better pics when from above from when I first did it but don't have easy access to them today.
I am a HUGE sunroof person. Havent had a car without one since I was 16. There was no way to get the backbone system without the 76in or longer rack. It covered about 2/3 of the sunroof which was too much for me. I ended up getting an aluminum blade for my circular saw and chopping 8in off the front of the rack. Now I have the best of both worlds, great rack and full sunroof access. The only downside was that I lost the front slide-in points for the c-channels, but it's not too hard to work around.
Side view pic.
I have better pics when from above from when I first did it but don't have easy access to them today.
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