Routing wire to cargo inside cab

[raycie]

Sorry..... I know I could have sifted through a lot of post, but would like to do this right after I get home from church.

I'm gonna run some wires from the engine to the cab and have a Deutsch connector so I can have a available plug-in work light. I would like the end of the wire to be somewhere in the cargo area (cubby with the jack) so I can just plug in amother deutsch connector and the light.

What do I have to remove so I can run the wire all the way inside the cab. Last night, I figured out as far as the start of the back seats.

Do I need to remove some seats to get under the carpet, or just the plastic sides in the cargo area.

Thanks

 

[Engineer]

Sorry..... I know I could have sifted through a lot of post, but would like to do this right after I get home from church.

I'm gonna run some wires from the engine to the cab and have a Deutsch connector so I can have a available plug-in work light. I would like the end of the wire to be somewhere in the cargo area (cubby with the jack) so I can just plug in amother deutsch connector and the light.

What do I have to remove so I can run the wire all the way inside the cab. Last night, I figured out as far as the start of the back seats.

Do I need to remove some seats to get under the carpet, or just the plastic sides in the cargo area.

Thanks

5 Things, assuming you are using the factory grommet in the firewall on the drivers side

*Driver side kick panel
*Drivers side front door kick plate
*Drivers side rear door kick plate
*Driver side rear wheel well tray (this may be different if you have a 3rd row) - There are some how too's on this. Removing it without breaking clips can be tough but my clips are broke as I use under it as storage and it hasn't caused any rattles etc. If you don't mind some broken clips just pull.
*Jack compartment cover.

With those removed there is plenty of room and its easy to fish wires from the front to the back. "Hardest" part is between the rear wheel well and the rear drivers side door seal but its not bad.

 

[raycie]

Thanks.. yea, I'll play more today.. did the up to the rear door side/kick plate, but the stopped.

It looks like there is a factory loom that runs that way, but I may even drill a hole in the little tray and have the connectors exposed. I may even run an extra wire and have it there if I ever run some cargo lights.

I'll post some pics and other info for others to use.

 

[raycie]

5 Things, assuming you are using the factory grommet in the firewall on the drivers side

*Driver side kick panel
*Drivers side front door kick plate
*Drivers side rear door kick plate
*Driver side rear wheel well tray (this may be different if you have a 3rd row) - There are some how too's on this. Removing it without breaking clips can be tough but my clips are broke as I use under it as storage and it hasn't caused any rattles etc. If you don't mind some broken clips just pull.
*Jack compartment cover.

With those removed there is plenty of room and its easy to fish wires from the front to the back. "Hardest" part is between the rear wheel well and the rear drivers side door seal but its not bad.

Got 'er done..

Finished product is here...

The wire is run from there to the hood and into my fuse box. Right now, she is hot, but I may add a switch or something later on.... Plug in the extension cord with the Rigid SRQ diffused, and instant light. Will use it if I ever need a camping light, or a work light (help someone change a flat). I have a suction RAM mount that the light is attached to, so can put it pretty much anywhere.

When removing the cubby, there are only a couple of clips on the far side (window side) of the tray. The other side has a couple of screws that attach the cubby to the whole sir panel. I almost broke those tabs completely, but reached in a unscrewed them.. It still clips back in to hold it snug with the (window side) clips.