Rust, win or lose, it's up to you.

Partially correct. He said pressure of the rinse has a lot to do with it. A pressure washer can remove the caked oily mess that protects, while garden hose pressure would remove a light layer. Still need to wash the vehicle to keep things clean where dirt can collect. Definitely a lot of strategy to this.
I prefer the high speed puddle method.
:surfer:
 
I’ve always understood WD40 to be very temporary, and can sometimes lead to rubber parts breaking down prematurely. I’ve been using a product that Boeing developed internally to protect airplane parts. It’s called Boeshield T-9 and so far it seems to be working great! I basically just spray it on everything under the hood, front and rear suspension and axles, entire undercarriage, bumpers, and even my rack. Let it soak in for about a day, then wipe off the extra. I also use Fluid Film with their fancy wand for getting inside the frame rails and in the doors. The T-9 stuff is legit, I figured if Boeing can trust it on a $30M airplane, it should work fine on my 20 year old 4Runner.

I read the specs, seems like its something I may try. $115 bucks a gallon, not bad considering. I can't explain why WD40 works, I think it gets into a molecular level in the paint, in rust, but it doesn't wash off with driving forming a skin. I still had a film last Fall from the previous Winter application. It actually takes a scrubbing to get it off the rockers and bottoms of my doors, you get a typical blackish residue. Its a commitment to seasonal application. Others like my brother and old timers been doing it for years and swear by it. Great to here all the options that work.
 
I find this post right after i just bought a gallon of Chassis Saver! lol

CS was like 85 bucks a gallon plus another 15 for the reducer. I'll try and post before after pics when the weather warms up here a bit.

There were videos somewhere years ago that showed WD40 doing some amazing things, even on concrete. I be looking in on this thread.
 

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