Deadly_Scionide
New member
Could you perhaps show me which blanks you are referring to? I wanted to tap one for my CB and couldn't seem to find it other than plugging/unplugging everything!
Seat Heater Install
- Thread starter Mijfwb23
- Start date
Could you perhaps show me which blanks you are referring to? I wanted to tap one for my CB and couldn't seem to find it other than plugging/unplugging everything!
Mijfwb23
New member
On the driver side fuse box I had two blanks fuse ports that had nothing in them. I took a multimeter and checked that they were 12v and ignition activated. I will look for pics or take take some for you if I cant find any.
MOJoWales
New member
Among the things I finished this week was the seat heater installation of the Amazon kit from earlier in this thread.
If you are considering wiring this kit in the same manner I did, you NEED the manual offered in this forum by Nashman69, or another factory reference manual. Everything I did was based on the Seat Heater (2010 4runner) .pdf from Nashman69 (He’s getting some beer money from me :cheers
.
You, of course, have a multi-meter and know how to use the continuity function because you should verify that the connectors and the wiring that goes to them is what and where it is supposed to be BEFORE you cut anything, right? :director:
I used the factory 20 amp (S/HTR FS position 13) of the CJB (interior fuse box) for both passenger and driver sides. Mine had a fuse already installed and no action was required to have, verified by testing, output pins controlled by this fuse (for testing purposes the connector side of the fuse insert was towards driver side fender, battery side towards the passenger fender). I used the outputs at the front and back of the CJB.
Passenger side is located on the back, towards the firewall, of connector 2C pin 14. It's the bottom, blue, wire in this picture taken looking up from the brake pedal towards the dash.
I used a mirror to verify I was hitting the right pin/wire when testing for continuity.
Driver side is located on the front, towards the cabin, of connector 2F pin 5. Mine was an empty hole originally. Here it is after adding the pin and white pigtail in position 5 and labeled with masking tape.
Our 2012 SR5 had the seat heater wiring from the fuse complete to the passenger seat connector Na1 pin 6, blue wire being hit with test lead from other side in this picture.
The passenger seat side of the connector had nothing attaching to this pin.
I released the pin from Na1 pin 6 and ran a wire from here back to the center console where I mounted the kit relay (actually just next to the console, under the carpet, and just aft of the inner seat mount points.
The driver side lacked wiring from the fuse onward. I considered using the passenger side to power both seat warmers but after testing the resistance I opted not to.
So, I ordered the correct pin with pigtail (Toyota part # 82998-24530)
to use at connector 2F pin 5 and ran new wire from this to under the seat. It's highway robbery at about $14 but time was critical for me so I grabbed my ankles. They can be bought without the leads for about 29 cents each here: Ballenger Motorsports ? High Performance Electronics
I tied in the kit relays to these 12V ACC power wires, and used a common ground for both under the center console (in this case a bolt holding down the transfer case shift lever lower boot after testing for a good ground).
For the kit switches I ran wire from the illumination and ACC power wire from the stereo connection (I already had this exposed doing a new headunit) but otherwise I would have used the before mentioned shift lever position light and some ACC power to tap into.
As others have mentioned I also found the green illumination to be intrusive. So, I opened up the switches and modified them.
There are two lights and the green one is disproportionately large compared to the yellow (where the yellow piece is to the right along the green plastic inside the light housing).
Without getting all technical about what this is made of, here is what I did:
Using a black sharpie I covered inside of the switch corresponding to the green LED area with ink.
I covered, reassembled, and tested several times before ending up with about 85% of the light I wanted eliminated.
I then added a small piece of gorilla tape cut to fit exactly in the area behind the sloped “green indicator” area of the switch.
The horizontal bar indicator still lights and there is just enough spill from the dial to be able to make out the position in the dark.
A warning about the pins in the CJB: The wire they connect to had some tension in my vehicle and the barbs holding the pins in are VERY tricky to release. Figure out routing before slipping these in.
You may have to separate connectors 2C or 2F (they are two separate connectors slid together) before installing new leads. If removing them you MUST separate them and release the barb tension (not easy).
Also, I would download the manual from Nashman69 and stare at the seat heater diagram until you have a conception of the factory system.
.
Overall I am very satisfied.
I could return to stock relatively quickly. I can also keep my fuse cover attached. This was a big deal to me with a messy dog and wife.
Hope this helps. I'll try to answer any questions here.
MOJoWales
If you are considering wiring this kit in the same manner I did, you NEED the manual offered in this forum by Nashman69, or another factory reference manual. Everything I did was based on the Seat Heater (2010 4runner) .pdf from Nashman69 (He’s getting some beer money from me :cheers
.
You, of course, have a multi-meter and know how to use the continuity function because you should verify that the connectors and the wiring that goes to them is what and where it is supposed to be BEFORE you cut anything, right? :director:
I used the factory 20 amp (S/HTR FS position 13) of the CJB (interior fuse box) for both passenger and driver sides. Mine had a fuse already installed and no action was required to have, verified by testing, output pins controlled by this fuse (for testing purposes the connector side of the fuse insert was towards driver side fender, battery side towards the passenger fender). I used the outputs at the front and back of the CJB.
Passenger side is located on the back, towards the firewall, of connector 2C pin 14. It's the bottom, blue, wire in this picture taken looking up from the brake pedal towards the dash.
I used a mirror to verify I was hitting the right pin/wire when testing for continuity.
Driver side is located on the front, towards the cabin, of connector 2F pin 5. Mine was an empty hole originally. Here it is after adding the pin and white pigtail in position 5 and labeled with masking tape.
Our 2012 SR5 had the seat heater wiring from the fuse complete to the passenger seat connector Na1 pin 6, blue wire being hit with test lead from other side in this picture.
The passenger seat side of the connector had nothing attaching to this pin.
I released the pin from Na1 pin 6 and ran a wire from here back to the center console where I mounted the kit relay (actually just next to the console, under the carpet, and just aft of the inner seat mount points.
The driver side lacked wiring from the fuse onward. I considered using the passenger side to power both seat warmers but after testing the resistance I opted not to.
So, I ordered the correct pin with pigtail (Toyota part # 82998-24530)
to use at connector 2F pin 5 and ran new wire from this to under the seat. It's highway robbery at about $14 but time was critical for me so I grabbed my ankles. They can be bought without the leads for about 29 cents each here: Ballenger Motorsports ? High Performance Electronics
I tied in the kit relays to these 12V ACC power wires, and used a common ground for both under the center console (in this case a bolt holding down the transfer case shift lever lower boot after testing for a good ground).
For the kit switches I ran wire from the illumination and ACC power wire from the stereo connection (I already had this exposed doing a new headunit) but otherwise I would have used the before mentioned shift lever position light and some ACC power to tap into.
As others have mentioned I also found the green illumination to be intrusive. So, I opened up the switches and modified them.
There are two lights and the green one is disproportionately large compared to the yellow (where the yellow piece is to the right along the green plastic inside the light housing).
Without getting all technical about what this is made of, here is what I did:
Using a black sharpie I covered inside of the switch corresponding to the green LED area with ink.
I covered, reassembled, and tested several times before ending up with about 85% of the light I wanted eliminated.
I then added a small piece of gorilla tape cut to fit exactly in the area behind the sloped “green indicator” area of the switch.
The horizontal bar indicator still lights and there is just enough spill from the dial to be able to make out the position in the dark.
A warning about the pins in the CJB: The wire they connect to had some tension in my vehicle and the barbs holding the pins in are VERY tricky to release. Figure out routing before slipping these in.
You may have to separate connectors 2C or 2F (they are two separate connectors slid together) before installing new leads. If removing them you MUST separate them and release the barb tension (not easy).
Also, I would download the manual from Nashman69 and stare at the seat heater diagram until you have a conception of the factory system.
.
Overall I am very satisfied.
I could return to stock relatively quickly. I can also keep my fuse cover attached. This was a big deal to me with a messy dog and wife.
Hope this helps. I'll try to answer any questions here.
MOJoWales
Jonsie82nd
New member
I have these in mine and I love it :cowboy:
gen5newguy
New member
Rosta 250-1872 install question
I would prefer to install a kit that would make use of the factory knockouts in the center column. Is the Rosta dual kit a decent choice. I just bought this truck so I really don't want to have to mod the truck to fit a seat heater switch. I would rather it be the other way around.
Car, Truck and SUV Automotive Carbon Fiber Seat Heaters by Rostra
well that's a bummer. i'm willing to contribute an OEM switch for experimentation, but seeing that we're halfway through winter i'm not inclined to pick up a seat-heater kit until autumn; other mods in the meantime.
Antman: another thought/way to come at this: think it's possible to reverse-engineer an amber LED (to replace the blue one for the seat icon) into the rotary-dial switch that comes with the Rostra kit?
yeah, yeah, send you the kit and you'll let me know! :wink2:
I would prefer to install a kit that would make use of the factory knockouts in the center column. Is the Rosta dual kit a decent choice. I just bought this truck so I really don't want to have to mod the truck to fit a seat heater switch. I would rather it be the other way around.
Car, Truck and SUV Automotive Carbon Fiber Seat Heaters by Rostra
I have had my 4runner for 2 months and I am on this site more than anything else. I have a list of things I want to do, but I keep finding new ones like this. Anyone tried these yet?
New Universal Heated Seat Heater Kit Heating 4 Pad 5 Gang 2 Seat | eBay
New Universal Heated Seat Heater Kit Heating 4 Pad 5 Gang 2 Seat | eBay
adamkingf5371
New member
Among the things I finished this week was the seat heater installation of the Amazon kit from earlier in this thread.
If you are considering wiring this kit in the same manner I did, you NEED the manual offered in this forum by Nashman69, or another factory reference manual. Everything I did was based on the Seat Heater (2010 4runner) .pdf from Nashman69 (He’s getting some beer money from me :cheers
You, of course, have a multi-meter and know how to use the continuity function because you should verify that the connectors and the wiring that goes to them is what and where it is supposed to be BEFORE you cut anything, right? :director:
I used the factory 20 amp (S/HTR FS position 13) of the CJB (interior fuse box) for both passenger and driver sides. Mine had a fuse already installed and no action was required to have, verified by testing, output pins controlled by this fuse (for testing purposes the connector side of the fuse insert was towards driver side fender, battery side towards the passenger fender). I used the outputs at the front and back of the CJB.
Passenger side is located on the back, towards the firewall, of connector 2C pin 14. It's the bottom, blue, wire in this picture taken looking up from the brake pedal towards the dash.
I used a mirror to verify I was hitting the right pin/wire when testing for continuity.
Driver side is located on the front, towards the cabin, of connector 2F pin 5. Mine was an empty hole originally. Here it is after adding the pin and white pigtail in position 5 and labeled with masking tape.
Our 2012 SR5 had the seat heater wiring from the fuse complete to the passenger seat connector Na1 pin 6, blue wire being hit with test lead from other side in this picture.
The passenger seat side of the connector had nothing attaching to this pin.
I released the pin from Na1 pin 6 and ran a wire from here back to the center console where I mounted the kit relay (actually just next to the console, under the carpet, and just aft of the inner seat mount points.
The driver side lacked wiring from the fuse onward. I considered using the passenger side to power both seat warmers but after testing the resistance I opted not to.
So, I ordered the correct pin with pigtail (Toyota part # 82998-24530)
to use at connector 2F pin 5 and ran new wire from this to under the seat. It's highway robbery at about $14 but time was critical for me so I grabbed my ankles. They can be bought without the leads for about 29 cents each here: Ballenger Motorsports ? High Performance Electronics
I tied in the kit relays to these 12V ACC power wires, and used a common ground for both under the center console (in this case a bolt holding down the transfer case shift lever lower boot after testing for a good ground).
For the kit switches I ran wire from the illumination and ACC power wire from the stereo connection (I already had this exposed doing a new headunit) but otherwise I would have used the before mentioned shift lever position light and some ACC power to tap into.
As others have mentioned I also found the green illumination to be intrusive. So, I opened up the switches and modified them.
There are two lights and the green one is disproportionately large compared to the yellow (where the yellow piece is to the right along the green plastic inside the light housing).
Without getting all technical about what this is made of, here is what I did:
Using a black sharpie I covered inside of the switch corresponding to the green LED area with ink.
I covered, reassembled, and tested several times before ending up with about 85% of the light I wanted eliminated.
I then added a small piece of gorilla tape cut to fit exactly in the area behind the sloped “green indicator” area of the switch.
The horizontal bar indicator still lights and there is just enough spill from the dial to be able to make out the position in the dark.
A warning about the pins in the CJB: The wire they connect to had some tension in my vehicle and the barbs holding the pins in are VERY tricky to release. Figure out routing before slipping these in.
You may have to separate connectors 2C or 2F (they are two separate connectors slid together) before installing new leads. If removing them you MUST separate them and release the barb tension (not easy).
Also, I would download the manual from Nashman69 and stare at the seat heater diagram until you have a conception of the factory system.
.
Overall I am very satisfied.
I could return to stock relatively quickly. I can also keep my fuse cover attached. This was a big deal to me with a messy dog and wife.
Hope this helps. I'll try to answer any questions here.
MOJoWales
Mojo - The CJB you have listed on the side (2F) is always hot? and you used the radio fuse for ACC and Illumination? Did you splice both seats into that one fuse?
MOJoWales
New member
No, It's not constant hot, but hot switched, only with the key in accessory or run position if I recall correctly.
Yes, I used the radio ACC and illumination for the kit switches.
Yes, both seats on the same fuse, but not the same wire.
I'll give some detail but be aware that the hard drive with my vehicle files crashed and I'm going from memory with the aid of my old posts. My 4runner is a 2012, SR5, 4X4, without factory seat heaters, with premium cloth interior, with power drivers and passengers seats, non JBL stereo, with 3rd row. Different years or configurations might differ.
The CJB 2F pin 5, and 2C pin 14 are hot switched (the diagram I posted confirms this) with key in accessory and run positions. The kit ACC relay lead SHOULD prevent battery drainage if a heater is left on with key off, but using the factory CJB appealed to me. It provides for the use of the factory fuse, in the factory location, which can be covered with the factory cover, which is simple to access and replace if necessary.
These pins are protected by a single shared 20 amp fuse that was in place at time of purchase. These are what Toyota used to supply the factory seat heaters and I ran both seat heater element lines off these pins, drivers 2F, passengers 2C.
Initially I considered running both kit seat heaters off my vehicles existing passenger side wiring. I can't remember the exact resistance but after measuring the wire that was in place from the CJB to my passenger seat I opted to run separate wires. I remember thinking that the single existing wire might be okay but it was over the limit for what I was comfortable with if both heaters were run at full draw. If I was going to run two heater elements off one wire it would be of larger gauge than factory used for a single seat.
As shown in my picture of the back side of the CJB, my SR5 had the passenger wire in place from the 2C pin 14 position (blue wire) to the passenger seat wring harness under the passenger seat. The output is on the back bottom of the CJB towards the firewall and only viewable if you get your head down by the brake pedal looking up, I used a mirror. To be clear, this blue wire was installed by Toyota at the factory although my 4runner came without seat heaters.
The blue wire goes through a few connections, and if memory serves changes colors a few times, from the CJB until it terminates under the passenger seat. At this connection it had no wire on the seat side. This pin, as shown in the testing picture with the lead inserted into the seat connector, I removed from the connection and wired to my passenger kit. This way I can remove the seat completely by simply unplugging the factory and kit connections. After wring the kits power line for the passenger seat from this connection the main power supply for the passenger relay is now complete (still need the ACC power lead, and illumination lead if desired).
For the drivers side mine came with an empty CJB slot in position 2F pin 5. (This position is a twin function pin to the above mentioned "passenger blue wire" on the reverse side of the CJB. They are both protected by the same fuse and have the same hot switched function.)
To be clear, my 4runner came without any wire in this location. This is easily viewable from the front drivers side after removing the CJB cover, and possibly the dash panel but I can't remember. The picture of the masking-tape labeled white wire is where I added Toyota part# 82998-24530 pigtail w/clip-connection to the CJB to run the driver heating element of the kit. The added part is the white wire with labeled masking tape. I added wire to the pigtail and routed that through the kick panel, inside of the floor wiring loom, and underneath the drivers seat. FYI, it is a pain to get this connection loose once installed in the CJB so I recommend having your wire run and cut to length before inserting the clip.
I don't remember the exact connector and pin locations for the radio ACC and illumination, but the factory manual shows them. My connections for the ACC and illumination wires are between the factory radio connections and my aftermarket head unit. Because I had to custom fabricate my head unit adapter harness I soldered the ACC and illumination leads for the seat heaters into this harness. I had everything apart to install the seat heaters, upgrade the stereo, and add a backup camera at the same time.
In full disclosure, my install likely differs from yours in that I ran my head unit constant positive and negative from an aftermarket fuse block (which has separate positive and negative to the battery to eliminate possible RF interference with the use of an audio amplifier and AC inverter) so I can't guarantee this wiring for a factory wired head unit. However, I do think it would be fine.
Otherwise several here have tapped into the green and white wires for the console shifting illumination with good result. If I was only adding the seat heaters I might have gone this route. These are low current draw and you can run them of virtually any switched supply for key on and light on function. I don't know of anyone who actually wired a functioning dimmer, only illumination off-on.
IMO, the factory manual is a prerequisite for doing any servicing or modification on modern vehicles. I would recommend studying it if you haven't already. Nashman69 had it available on this site.
FYI, the seat heaters are still functioning perfectly. The illumination and heat controls are as I installed them.
I initially used the kit supplied metallic tape to secure the heat pads to the seat foam on reassembly, but I quickly removed it. On our fabric seats it was noisy and crinkly. On reassembly I used only zip-ties, I initially used hog-rings to re-secure the fabric, and the heating pads are in the same position nearly a year later.
Being able to easily return everything to stock while leaving the factory wiring as untouched as possible was very important to me. I probably went overboard.
I'll try to answer any questions, but as mentioned above, I'm going off memory right now.
Good luck,
adamkingf5371
New member
Thanks for the reply. I finished this today. It took considerably much longer than I had planned for. Also my 2010 Trail has a hot 12V ACC line on the drivers and passenger's side, so no need to run a separate power line from the plug. That being said, the kit I bought actually had the plug wired differently from the driver's and passenger's side. I had to rewire it. I wired the power and ACC line together and connected that to the 12V line from the fuse block. Seems to work fine.
Narkhelek
New member
The reason the dimming doesn't work is because the dimmer rheostat switch is on the ground side of the vehicles illumination circuit not the power side. The only way you could get it to work is if you were able to separate out the heater switch green light ground from the switches common ground and run that to the ground side of the illumination circuit.
mattleegee
New member
does the kit you get matter?
these any good?
Heated Seat Switch Fit Toyota Prado Corolla RAV4 Reiz 2 Seat Install Seat Heater | eBay
got lots of sales, and switches look pretty stock
these any good?
Heated Seat Switch Fit Toyota Prado Corolla RAV4 Reiz 2 Seat Install Seat Heater | eBay
got lots of sales, and switches look pretty stock
8MoreMiles
New member
If I start on my passenger seat tonight and don't finish it is the 4Runner going to give me a problem because I don't have the air bag connected?
I don't need the passenger seat tomorrow but I do need the vehicle.
I don't need the passenger seat tomorrow but I do need the vehicle.
Antman
Elite Member
Yes. The airbag light will definitely come on and may stay on for awhile.
8MoreMiles
New member
Just a light is great, I can live with that till the seat's back in, thanks.
Antman
Elite Member
harper7
Senior Member
And the part where if you have an airbag light(fault) in most systems that none of your airbags will work in a crash....... so be safe and hope you do live in case of that.
8MoreMiles
New member
Optimism... always been a fan of that stuff.
I've postponed tearing the seat apart till I've got a full day to make mistakes and do research to fix them.
I've postponed tearing the seat apart till I've got a full day to make mistakes and do research to fix them.
Toyota_Thom
New member
Help please ..... I've just started to do research on this and came across this awesome thread. One of the first websites i looked at say this about installing aftermarket seat heaters .. "Some front passenger seats are outfitted with occupant detection sensors which are not compatible with any after market seat heater. Consult with Check Corporation to determine the appropriate heating element assembly for each specific vehicle."
Well, my 2009 4runner does have that occupant detection sensor. Has anyone here installed aftermarket heaters with that sensor in the seat? what did you do? Explain as much detail as possible. :thanks:
Just worried and want to be 100% sure of things before pulling this trigger.
Well, my 2009 4runner does have that occupant detection sensor. Has anyone here installed aftermarket heaters with that sensor in the seat? what did you do? Explain as much detail as possible. :thanks:
Just worried and want to be 100% sure of things before pulling this trigger.
Last edited:
bittwiddler
New member
Haven't noticed a difference in mine with aftermarket seat heaters. Didn't do anything special
nglayton
Senior Member
My aftermarket seat heaters are just that, so they don't interact with any of the built in Toyota systems at all. I bought switches and relays the only Toyota part I use is the battery for power and the seat to hold the heat pads. All of the occupant detection sensors are still in place and function the same just fine.
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