Secondary Air Injection Pump Failure on V8's! Important!

[Billynath1988]

@Sly

Okay, I got the car warm, then disconnected the pos lead on the battery, started it but the Christmas lights were all still there. I was about ready to give up, then remembered how my computer holds a charge for a bit after disconnecting power. So I disconnected the pos terminal again and waited a few minutes before putting it back on, and the lights went off.

If I understand this correctly, the valves are now closed, so I can go with your kit, Sly? I'll copy this to your email and request purchase instructions.

BillyN:

"...from what I understand you will need to RR the entire system yourself..."

What does RR mean? Could you elaborate on this? Is this the "downstream" issue(s) that the quoted poster was referring to? Would like to get smart on this.

What slyfox said. Just cause your dash lights and codes are temporarily out after resetting the computer via disconnecting battery, doesn't mean your valves aren't stuck. It is a good sign though. If your not in limp mode. and your dash lights are not on. I would Immediately, order the resistor bypass kit from slyfox. DO NOT drive your truck until you install it. And maybe you will be lucky enough to have caught the valves closed, and problem should be solved/ remedied.

If that doesn't work you will need to go one step further and install the block off plates. Which is basically permanently closing the valves. As stated early in some instances the air pump disintegrates and shrapnel from the plastic blade gets stuck in the valves preventing them from opening and closing properly.

Check out the links to the videos I posted in the first post of this thread and some connecting youtube videos about this. Should further explain it.

The Bypass resistor kit from slyfox literally took me less then 5 minutes to install.

 

[Deckard]

^ Thanks. Sly says I need to do a cold start first and see no lights since the ECU won't register valve position when cold.

It isn't in limp mode, that much I can say for sure.

BTW, when I changed the pump, Napa auto parts said I needed two gaskets, an Intake Manifold Gasket Set, and a Intake Plenum Gasket Set. But my mechanic said the Plenum Gasket wasn't required. Who is right?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-Gasket-Set-Intake-/_/R-FPBMS96672_0436461637

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...e-Plenum-Gasket-Set/_/R-FPBMS96333_0436461652

 

[Billynath1988]

not sure since I didnt change my pump. But Id buy both and return what you dont use.

 

[Deckard]

Wondering...

Since it's definitely not in limp mode (based on acceleration), is that an indication that the valves are closed? Or must limp mode be accompanied by the lights?

 

[Deckard]

This morning it was 66F and the car started with no lights and not in limp. Drove it 2 blocks, let it sit for 45 minutes, then restarted and the lights plus limp was back.

Does this mean the valves are changing positions? Seems random.

 

[slyfox75]

If you started up today and didn't get limp mode then the valves aren't totally trashed and appear to be working......
Before you install the kit you want to start on cold motor, drive around, make sure they don't come on......then come home and install kit(valves will be closed....and never actuate again.....thus no need for plates).

 

[Deckard]

^ "...drive around, make sure they don't come on..."

If they don't come on after a while, then shut down, should I install the relay at that point, or should I restart again and check for no lights?

Looks like the lights always come back on after a restart.

UPDATE
Talked to a Lexus service Forman today and he says the valve position isn't dependant on temperature. He also says that the ECU takes a couple of trips to reset, which may explain why the lights come back on after two trips.

Or at least they did. Just went 4 trips and no lights.

I think my mechanic can hook up the car to some diagnostic equipment to determine valve position. Perhaps I should do that before putting on a relay, just to be sure.

 

[ssmd]

I was wondering if a drive thru car wash could cause enough water intrusion to cause a failure. What do you guys think?

I also spray the frame/wheel wells with high pressure at the self serve car wash a lot in the winter to keep the rust to a minimum. Would this cause a problem down the line with the air injection pump? Engine is always off at the self serve bay but I leave it running when going through the drive thru.

I don't have this issue but it seems likely that I will in the future. I may do the mod anyways.

 

[Deckard]

In addition to the smog pump, can someone confirm that these are the only additional parts that comprise this system? And will these parts work for all of the engines in question?

Also wondering which part(s) is likely the culprit.

VALVE ASSY, AIR SWITCHING, NO.1; VALVE ASSY, ELECTRIC AIR CONTROL. NO.1 made by Toyota. #2572050011

VALVE ASSY, AIR SWITCHING, NO.2; VALVE ASSY, ELECTRIC AIR CONTROL. NO.2 made by Toyota. #2572050020

VALVE ASSY, AIR SWITCHING. MANIFOLD AIR INJECTION SYSTEM made by Toyota. #2571050021

VALVE ASSY, AIR CONTROL made by Toyota. #2570450010

 

[jeremy1usc]

I installed the bypass kit in my 4Runner last September and have had zero issues. Does anyone know if the vehicle will pass emission inspections with the kit on? I am getting it registered in NC which tests for it unlike sc.

 

[Billynath1988]

I installed the bypass kit in my 4Runner last September and have had zero issues. Does anyone know if the vehicle will pass emission inspections with the kit on? I am getting it registered in NC which tests for it unlike sc.

You will pass as long as you have no check engine light

 

[smeagolf18]

NICE WORK Billynath1988

Glad I read this post Billy! I have a 2005 Sequoia with 146k on it. Called the number, got my own case number, and the TSB to get it fixed at the dealer.

Call this number: 1800-332-4331
Reference this Service Bulletin: T-SB-0230-12
You can reference my Case# too: 150-001-0296
Billynath1988's Case#: 140-722-0993

Cheers!

New thread with Big update.

2005 4Runner V8 with 105k.

Background:
About a week ago or so, I started up my truck in the morning and immediately heard a loud ( Shop Vac sounding) buzzing type noise from under the hood that I had never heard before on any vehicle. I froze in confusion trying to listen for what the hell it was. By the time I opened my door to get out and look under neath the noise stopped and everything was fine. Normal idle, no check engine light. Nothing. So I drove cautiously and everything was fine. Through out that day I turned off and started my truck up multiple times with the noise never showing its face again.

Day 2: First start in the morning and the same thing happens. Same noise.
I immediately pop the hood and find the noise coming from lower passenger side of the block. but still cannot pinpoint exact location.

Video of my truck with the noise
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2htXBZaPd_vbnotNHBZSkMxaVk/edit?pli=1


Day 3: Post on here and some facebook groups. with help from fellow members and experienced people. I find this: Nothing happens the rest of the day on any other start up except the first.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Zoc2eqxqo


Day 4: Same Thing EXCEPT. check engine light and this code. P1445
P1445 code | IH8MUD Forum


WHAT YOU NEED TO DO IF YOU EXPERIENCE THIS PROBLEM:

I went to my local Toyota dealer to discuss the matter only to leave frustrated because they had no idea what I was saying. I don't understand why you put people in service departments that don't know anything about how a car works.

on the way out a mechanic who overheard me gave me THIS NUMBER:

Toyota Customer assistance : 1-800-331-4331 <--- If you have a v8 Call IT and tell them you have this problem!

The Customer Service rep acknowledged that Tundra's and Sequoia's with the V8 have the exact same defective part as us. And on those vehicles Toyota was willing to extend the warranty to 150k and either repair or reimburse previously repaired trucks.

She went on to explain that they do have quite a few documented cases but not enough to make Toyota take the next step and extend the warranty on 4runners to Replace or reimburse for work done on this part.

In short: If you have a V8 Call- Call even if its not broken YET, for you in the future and Call for all your fellow 4 runner friends with V8's who need every single one to be a documented case to get this fixed. Its over 3 grand out of pocket if its not covered.

If you pay or have paid to have it fixed. KEEP ALL RECEIPTS.
If you paid, had it fixed and don't own it anymore but can prove you paid to fix it. and they extend the warranty they WILL reimburse you.

*If you didnt fix it yet, call, call and call some more. If they extend warranty, the total cost of approx 3 grand will be covered by toyota.

Phone number is- 1800-332-4331
Tell them you heard it from Reference number # 140-722-0993

 

[bergs]

My truck has been sitting for about a week or so as I am on business travel so I asked someone at home to move it to another parking spot at work. They reported to me it was making a "shop vac" sound for about a minute then it went away. I am concerned this is a sign of something worse since I have never heard (or known of) my truck doing this.

What's the best fix?

I see positive reviews on the bypass box but there are also posts about removing some kind of foam filter that is deteriorated and affects the flow path or something to that effect.

At 245,000 miles I won't waste time calling Toyota.

 

[Billynath1988]

My truck has been sitting for about a week or so as I am on business travel so I asked someone at home to move it to another parking spot at work. They reported to me it was making a "shop vac" sound for about a minute then it went away. I am concerned this is a sign of something worse since I have never heard (or known of) my truck doing this.

What's the best fix?

I see positive reviews on the bypass box but there are also posts about removing some kind of foam filter that is deteriorated and affects the flow path or something to that effect.

At 245,000 miles I won't waste time calling Toyota.

Do the kit from slyfox now.. nothing else to think about

 

[bergs]

Seems like the problem is here to stay. Arrived back to the east coast, was dropped off at my truck and as soon as I fired it up the same issue as described above....about a minute of whining then it's fine.

Working with slyfox now to have the bypass shipped.

 

[mpyle]

Would it be a good idea to install the bypass kit as a preventative measure even if you haven't experienced the problem yet?

 

[ZiaMan]

Would it be a good idea to install the bypass kit as a preventative measure even if you haven't experienced the problem yet?

To those yet to experience this.......trust me......just do the bypass......SO MUCH easier, less headache, etc etc. I sell the relay version for $45, Ebay has a couple versions, or make your own, the plans are on TundraSolutions and other forums. IMO its worth doing before you ever even GET to having a problem. Simple, 100% effective, cheap.

Yes, get it done! :drummer:

 

[Billynath1988]

Would it be a good idea to install the bypass kit as a preventative measure even if you haven't experienced the problem yet?

yes.. by doing that you will prevent yourself from ever hearing the shop vac noise and then coming back to this thread and wondering if you should have done it earlier. lol just do it

 

[chuntmd]

Can anyone clarify what years this applies to? Some kits start at 05 and other earlier..

CEH

 

[BOFFROAD]

I bought my 2005 V8 about 5 weeks ago and I hear the shop vac noise on every cold start. I have not had any dash lights come on. Should I contact Toyota about it?