Skid Plate Rant
- Thread starter adkinsadam1
- Start date
shuly
New member
Wow...long time no post on t4r for me
Yes they do have the hole for draining oil. You can pull the drain plug with an extension but the Fumoto valve is SOOOOO much quicker and easier. I also picked up an oil wrench for the Toyota filter and now I don't have to take any thing down. You can reach the oil filter through the drivers side wheel area...just don't drop it after you take it off...don't ask me how I know :lol:britton406
New member
hey shuly, I would love to see where/how you mounted your jack! Ive been having trouble debating where to put mine. If its not too much trouble, next time you have it up on a rack or something :bigok: could you snap a picture?? I would really appreciate it!
shuly
New member
Sure...be happy to if I had a rack haha.... j/k
I will need to yank the bud skids at 60k (at 53k now). I don't normally pull them down for oil changes. When I do change the diff and other fluids I'll try to remember to snap a pic. If the need arises, I'll do it sooner (hopefully it doesn't). If it does it means I probably broke something.
I use a 3Ton Jack and a 2x8 or a 4x4 between the jack and the skid to distribute the load over the plate and protect the powder coat. All I do is throw it under one of the factory cross members. I typically use the big one in the front in front of the oil drain and behind the wheels. I find it to be an easy and convenient place to lift from.
Will the Fumoto valve fit with a Budbuilt skid plate?Wow...long time no post on t4r for me
shuly
New member
Absolutely...plenty of room even with the valve with the nipple extension. This is what I have installed on my truck.
If you are worried about smashing the skid or something so much that you would hit the valve get the one with out the nipple extension and it will be shorter by an inch or so.
Hi,
What tires are you running? I have always run BFG All-Terrain KOs D load range on previous 4x4 but see that they are only available in E for the 265/65 17 size and that may be a little harder than I want or my wife will appreciate.
Thanks,
britton406
New member
shuly
New member
I ordered mine from lubricationspecialist.com.
The part number I ordered was F103N. The N means it has the nipple. You can also order the F103 w/o the nipple. All it does is allow you to connect a hose to so that you can control where the oil goes. Since the drain the bud builts is directly under the plug you don't actually have to have the extra nipple. If you look around the site they have pictures and a fitment guide. When I ordered it back in June last year it was about 23 bucks. It is definitely one of those mods that is quick, cheap and easy. You will love it.
If you happen to have other vehicles in your garage the valve is available for LOTS of applications. I have only used it on my 4R but it looks like you can get it for most makes/models.
shuly
New member
It is a TSO (tight shutoff) 1/4 turn ball valve. You just reach up and turn it. There is plenty of access and you don't need to get dirty changing your oil anymore. Once you install it you will see that it is easy to reach but far enough out of the way to avoid almost all wheeling damage. I wish I could say all wheeling damage but for some reason someone builds a better idiot who finds new ways to break things :lmao:
Do you reach through the oil hole, or up around the sides of the skid plate? Last I remembered, the oil hole is pretty darn small, that's why i'm asking. If you are reach up through the hole, doesn't the oil then hit your hand? Sorry for asking silly questions...
britton406
New member
shuly
New member
There are no stupid questions (or so I am told) Don't worry I never ask stupid questions :bravo:
You are correct...you reach around the sides and not through the oil hole. There is plenty of room to reach the valve and not get oil on yourself.
britton406 said:
Glad I could help! Enjoy your easier oil changes.
truckmike26
New member
Those covers underneath are there more for aerodynamics to improve fuel economy. The first time I saw underneath I figured I'd need to remove them so they don't get trashed off road.
shuly
New member
You should see the factory plates on some of the guys I have been wheeling with. They can take a beating. They aren't indestructible but they are definitely better than not having anything. If you plan on playing in rock gardens and doing serious 4wheeling then you should change them. I do know some guys though that keep pounding their factory plates back out again. They do hold up for easy to moderate trail runs with careful driving. They won't hold up to damage from black trails and won't hold the weight of the truck if you slip and drop it on a rock like the buds will. They won't resist bending if you hit something at higher speeds but they are definitely better than nothing. The thing to remember is that they are SKID plates not impact plates. Skidding over a small rock vs impacting it are different things. There is a reason I put bud builts on my truck. I have slipped on ice and other stuff and slammed the truck down on rocks. It makes a horrible and terrifying noise. I had an obstacle that was difficult and needed to power out...but I wasn't as careful as I should have been and when I finally got traction I hit a rock with the front plate and bent it (slightly-it was strong!) It saved the radiator!!! I have been lucky and the budbuilts have always protected the truck. They really are worth their cost if you do any serious wheeling.<O
</Otruckmike26
New member
The skid plates on my '94 are a series of compound curves. It's artful.
