brockeverly
New member
No reason to read the whole thread. These are poser sliders, period. A slider should not have big ass u-bolts sticking down lower than the slider itself. What is going to hit first, slider or mount? Terrible.
No reason to read the whole thread. These are poser sliders, period. A slider should not have big ass u-bolts sticking down lower than the slider itself. What is going to hit first, slider or mount? Terrible.
I strongly disagree. I've NEVER got hung up on my u-bolts or the associated brackets that accompany them. I'd have to look to see if there is even evidence of any contact. The frame rail is in-board enough to prevent most issues of contact. I've hit my rear LCA hangers and bent both OEM arms over the years. Hit my sliders hard enough to dent the lower plate on both sides and hit rocks so hard with the cat protection I though my fillings would fall out. But the unbolts never concern me. It wasn't when I was on 31's with no lift nor now with a 2" and 35's.
I know I'm speaking with regard to my 80 Cruiser but I don't see much difference here. Both vehicle are similar in dimension, wheelbase, and OEM mass.
In the posted pics of the 4th gen the trans crossmember, fuel tank, and rear LCA hanger are all lower than the u-bolts in question. It would take a million in one rock to make them an issue.
Labeling these as poser sliders is a bit harsh IMO. Do others offer more clearance sure. But is is really needed? Probably not for most.
No reason to read the whole thread. These are poser sliders, period. A slider should not have big ass u-bolts sticking down lower than the slider itself. What is going to hit first, slider or mount? Terrible.
Poser sliders? You sound like many others. All opinion and absolutely no fact to back it up. How many times have you used sliders and standing on them to reach the top does not count.
As previously mentioned I have Metal Tech sliders on my LC. Metaltech 4x4 FZJ80 Sliders, 95-97 Every company I can think of uses u-bolts for the 80 series LC as we don't have captured nuts in the OEM frame that would support sliders. I've never witnessed a LC get hung up on its slider u-bolts. Or any other vehicle for that matter.
Yes sliders are meant to slide. Driver error on occasion makes them take large hits. Or sometimes you got to bump it to get over it. Often I drop down a ledge where the front wheels are dangling and the truck is resting on the sliders. Never an issue with the u-bolts? Its a solid method of mounting the sliders.
I believe most on this board are just spoiled by the options of captured nuts in a 5th gen frame. Every forum develops its preferences for one reason or another regardless of topic. I find it funny to see the resistance to something new or different than the norm. Just like the Slee step slider thread.
Yes you can make the argument that you want to try to prepare for any possible scenario but by that argument everyone should pull their skirts for more ground clearance, run 40" tires, carry a parts store in the back, etc... And some do. But if you hit the one in a million rock, back up and take a different line. Your frame, unbolt, and hanger will all be just fine.
Looking at photos of the metaltechs for your LC, the bolts are above the slider, so it isn't a fair comparison. As I said earlier, u bolts don't bother me, its the mounts position in the center.
For whatever it's worth. I reached out to John at white-knuckle regarding concerns with the u-bolts.
His response:
"They are held on with Ubolts. I have been using the Ubolt mounting method when possible for a number of years now on a few different vehicle models with no troubles. They offer great strength and easy mounting with no need for drilling or modifications. Since they are tough enough to hold an axle housing to leaf springs under tremendous pressures then surely they can (and do) hold the weight of the vehicle. They are very tough and handle all the abuse thrown at them."
All "I feel" and no "I know."
The people who have concerns about this mounting method know absolutely nothing about the engineering of fastening or joining. They know about what they have heard from someone who knows someone whose 2nd cousin might have broke a u bolt in the '70's. That, and what their eyeball tells them. This thread kinda reminds me of the oil change thread. All "I feel" and no "I know."
If some of you only knew a little about the physics of what actually is happening within your vehicle's moving parts at 75 mph on an interstate you would be deathly afraid and demand the OEM beef up everything from tire sidewalls to ball joints to caliper pins to hose strength.
I'll leave you with these little tidbits:
You know that little bulge on the bottom of your tire as it rests on the ground? Think for a second how much a tire sidewall flexes as it rotates while going 75 mph.
Now think what really happens when you stomp the brakes hard at 75 mph and the stresses on your brake components.
Makes you wonder why some would worry about simple u bolts.
What I will bring-up as another potential issue is interoperability with skid plates since many of the skid plate manufacturers use the bottom of the frame on our trucks to mount some of the plates.
That is a very valid point to keep in mind. Compatibility with other accessories is always challenging.
I stated my concern a couple of times: I'm not concerned about the integrity or strength of the u-bolt - I'm concerned about using this method over captured bolts in the frame. While unlikely, there is a potential for the sliders to slide down the frame of the truck. If I'm paying more-or-less the same price for a set of sliders, I'd prefer to have multiple static load bearing points that are captured within the frame instead of three load bearing points that have the potential to become dynamic.
I think Brock was expressing a concern about the u-bolt being a potential snag hazard. I don't think I agree with that point of view, but unless I missed it, I don't think anyone was questioning the overall strength of u-bolts. What I will bring-up as another potential issue is interoperability with skid plates since many of the skid plate manufacturers use the bottom of the frame on our trucks to mount some of the plates.
So at best you will have 6 points on the skid plate where you will need to hit with a grinder, torch, plasma cutter, sawzall, drill or die grinder depending on what you have.