Slow down .... stop ... let go of brake ... "thunk"

[JB.]

I've never heard of this. But why would you buy a driveshaft when all you need is $.50 cents worth of grease?

Because you're only in the middle of the process. Often people report that the clunk comes back.

Since it's not a wear or reliability issue, I don't give it a second thought. It just reminds me I'm driving a real 4x4. There's lots of similar discussion here in the 3rd gen section and many other forums dealing with Toyota 4x4s. Nature of the beast.

 

[wolf4runner]

I often found that after serving the drive line (zerks), the clunk would go away, it only works for a while though.

 

[WXman]

Because you're only in the middle of the process. Often people report that the clunk comes back.

Since it's not a wear or reliability issue, I don't give it a second thought. It just reminds me I'm driving a real 4x4. There's lots of similar discussion here in the 3rd gen section and many other forums dealing with Toyota 4x4s. Nature of the beast.

Then add more grease. The reason the problem comes back is because the owner A) didn't add enough grease or B) needs to do it again because it's been a long while. The fact that the clunk comes back doesn't automatically mean the fix isn't working.

I've dealt with driveshaft woes on new 4x4s before and it's a PITA I can assure you. The "clunk" we are discussing in this thread can end up being the least of your worries. My personal experience tells me that if the driveshaft spins true and you have zero other problems...it's better to leave it alone and squirt that grease in there every other oil change.

 

[JB.]

Then add more grease. The reason the problem comes back is because the owner A) didn't add enough grease or B) needs to do it again because it's been a long while. The fact that the clunk comes back doesn't automatically mean the fix isn't working.

I've dealt with driveshaft woes on new 4x4s before and it's a PITA I can assure you. The "clunk" we are discussing in this thread can end up being the least of your worries. My personal experience tells me that if the driveshaft spins true and you have zero other problems...it's better to leave it alone and squirt that grease in there every other oil change.

We have different perspectives. Mine is based on trying different greasing approaches and reading the forum regularly for nearly 9 years.

I don't blame you for thinking the issue is simple. I thought so once, too.

Example: Many people have been told by their mechanic that it's axle wrap. That would explain why no amount of greasing can fix it.

But in the end, I take a simple approach myself. Grease regularly and forget about it.

 

[WXman]

We have different perspectives. Mine is based on trying different greasing approaches and reading the forum regularly for nearly 9 years.

I don't blame you for thinking the issue is simple. I thought so once, too.

Example: Many people have been told by their mechanic that it's axle wrap. That would explain why no amount of greasing can fix it.

But in the end, I take a simple approach myself. Grease regularly and forget about it.

Yeah, I understand. My perspective is from being raised by a father who is a master mechanic of over 38 years experience and from wrenching on trucks and cars for 15 years myself. This is my very first Toyota, but a mechanical joint is a mechanical joint....a greasable joint is designed to purposefully require regular greasing. If done properly, they'll outlast "sealed" units and will do so at cheaper cost. Replacing the driveshaft is needlessly expensive, and can open new cans of worms. It would be like buying a new pair of shoes because your laces won't stay tied, instead of just learning to tie the laces the right way.

When I got this Toyota home and crawled under it and saw grease zerks on ALL the joints...a smile hit my face. "These guys knew how to build a truck!" You don't see that quality much anymore.

But that's what makes the forum go around. You have guys from all backgrounds sharing thoughts and it molds the community. So we should all share ideas like this.

P.S. Axle wrap does not occur on 3 and 4 link coil spring suspensions like ours, unless suspension joints are severely worn out. Axle wrap is a phenomenon that occurs on leaf spring suspensions. So whoever had a mechanic tell them that needs to find a new mechanic.

:cheers:

 

[gshadow325]

i agree with both the replace the driveshaft and also with the grease/service the driveshaft.

Why?

Replace=$$$$ but will the problem come back over time and require another replace=$$$??

so i would rather

service/grease = very little money $0.50 worth. I'd rather go that route. this would leave me money to mod it!

Either way, this forum helped me save a ton of money already so. Its all worth it in the end.

450 miles since i greased the zerks...no thud clunk thimp anymore...lovin it!

 

[WXman]

Ford Rangers of this same vintage are very bad about having the thunk. But they do not have greasable joints. So what I had to do was periodically remove the drive shaft, grease the slip yoke heavily, and then put the driveshaft back in. PITA. At least Toyota gave us zerks.

 

[yeauxkna_at]

06 TR4 Sport ED. 146k
Why in the dang heck is this issue of type of grease so dang confusing? The FSM says 2 types? Most here use Mob 1.

I don't want to have school on the dang thing- Honestly all I care about is:

What brand or what tube of lithium grease do I need?
Where can I spread it?

What brand of Moly grease do I need?
Where can I spread it?
Where should I not spread it?

CAN MOBILE 1 do both?
Will I go wrong using Mobile 1?
I plan on greasing these things lightly each oil change.
I can't even confirm that my own Toyota dealership even greased these damn things let alone used the "recommended grease".

All I want to do is grease these things without placing something in a joint that will damage the joint for trying to do the right thing. Why am I overthinking this? Thank you Toyota that is why.

 

[toybox]

I have two grease guns (three if I consider the mini one). I bought Moly and I bought Lithium greases. I don't think brand really matters that much. It's all fairly cheap stuff. Buy it, put it in, and forget about it.

As far as where it goes, I'm sure if you search you'll find the answer. I wrote it with a Sharpie on each grease gun, one says slip joint and the other is for the u joints. this way I don't need to look it up or worry about it each time.

 

[JB.]

All I want to do is grease these things without placing something in a joint that will damage the joint for trying to do the right thing. Why am I overthinking this?

Think of it like motor oil. Just doing the changes covers 99% of what you need to think about.

If I were you, I'd use Mobil 1 and forget about it.

 

[eddiebx]

Think of it like motor oil. Just doing the changes covers 99% of what you need to think about.

If I were you, I'd use Mobil 1 and forget about it.

Slightly off topic, but I was wondering, say I were to get lazy and not grease the zerks for ~10-15k, can I fully recover from this by greasing it at that point, or would I be doing irreversible damage? I guess what I mean is it's it a big deal to wait for it to clunk and then greasing it? The lazy side of me want's to know

 

[JB.]

Slightly off topic, but I was wondering, say I were to get lazy and not grease the zerks for ~10-15k, can I fully recover from this by greasing it at that point, or would I be doing irreversible damage? I guess what I mean is it's it a big deal to wait for it to clunk and then greasing it? The lazy side of me want's to know

I don't think 10k is a long interval for street driving so I also don't think 15 is terribly past due, but I also live in the desert. YMMV. I ignore the clunk so my intervals aren't based on it. I've averaged 7200 mile or 6.4 month intervals on a truck that see a ton of off-pavement use. 113k on odo.

I believe it's a slow, long term wear thing as opposed to a quick failure situation, so if you wait too long you just subtract a little bit from total life of the part.

 

[OneFastt997]

Add me to the greased and no longer clunking crew. Diff and transfer case up next (probably two weekends from now).

Plugs seem to be ok, tranny fluid is 120k and I'm at 90k so all good there. Anything else I should be considering. Oil looks very fresh (just bought the truck) and the air filter is brand new.

 

[eddiebx]

I don't think 10k is a long interval for street driving so I also don't think 15 is terribly past due, but I also live in the desert. YMMV. I ignore the clunk so my intervals aren't based on it. I've averaged 7200 mile or 6.4 month intervals on a truck that see a ton of off-pavement use. 113k on odo.

I believe it's a slow, long term wear thing as opposed to a quick failure situation, so if you wait too long you just subtract a little bit from total life of the part.

Sounds great, thanks for the clarification! I am currently only at ~6-7k miles but will definitely attend to it at 10k when I go under and do my oil change. The only off pavement use my 4runner sees 99% of the time is when I drive up the curb by accident

 

[BlackWorksInc]

It will degrade over time. I purchased my '04 and it has a slight clunk, over the past couple years as I grease it every 5k it just got worse and worse to the point I had my extended warranty just replace the driveshaft as per the TSB. Clunky thumpy is gone now.

 

[JB.]

It will degrade over time. I purchased my '04 and it has a slight clunk, over the past couple years as I grease it every 5k it just got worse and worse to the point I had my extended warranty just replace the driveshaft as per the TSB. Clunky thumpy is gone now.

Is it greaseable?

Can you shed any light on the fact that the drive shaft replacements seem to be a mix of sealed and non-sealed units?

 

[JohnnyT]

Does anyone have the actual part number of the replacement driveshaft that eliminates this once and for all?

Is it a Lexus driveshaft?

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Is it greaseable?

Can you shed any light on the fact that the drive shaft replacements seem to be a mix of sealed and non-sealed units?

Mine has all the same zerk fittings the old one has, in fact it looks fairly similar save for maybe a slight length/shape redesign. I really couldn't tell with both of them side by side. The accepted cause according to the factory reps is an issue with the splines binding up, I assume due to a backlash issue when machined.

Does anyone have the actual part number of the replacement driveshaft that eliminates this once and for all?

Is it a Lexus driveshaft?

Its a Toyota part, like all Toyota/Lexus/Scion parts; its the same part number for the V8 4th gens and GX470's.

Old P/N 37110-6A480
New P/N 37110-60A40

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/124377-t-sb-0121-12-its-finally-here.html

 

[inscarguy]

i have also had the driveshaft replaced under the TSB. mine was still under warranty when it was changed. it still has the fitting on the slip yoke but the joints are not greaseable. the new shaft has not given us any problems since it was installed. it used to be real bad when it got real warm out(and humid) but no thud to speak about anymore.

if you have a V8 and its still under warranty you should be able to get it replaced.

here is the tread i posted a while ago with some pics:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...hud-**update**.html?highlight=driveshaft+thud

 

[BlackWorksInc]

i have also had the driveshaft replaced under the TSB. mine was still under warranty when it was changed. it still has the fitting on the slip yoke but the joints are not greaseable. the new shaft has not given us any problems since it was installed. it used to be real bad when it got real warm out(and humid) but no thud to speak about anymore.

if you have a V8 and its still under warranty you should be able to get it replaced.

here is the tread i posted a while ago with some pics:

Driveshaft Clunk-Thud **UPDATE**

Yours doesn't have zerk fittings? I have the fittings on both U-joints and the slip yoke.