Slow Start / Hesitation Ignition Problem. Any Ideas????

baronvdb

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Slow Start / Hesitation Ignition Problem. Any Ideas???? VIDEO ADDED TO POST

Hey guys,

I have an 05 limited and for the last week or so it started having this weird slow start problem when turning the ignition. Here's how it happens:

I turn the key, it tries to start for about 3-4 seconds, then it finally turns over and starts.

I took it to the stealership on Friday and they said the battery was the problem. I spent $120+ on a new no name battery from them (would've bought a optima red top myself but they were going to charge me $53 just for the diagnosis if i didn't buy the battery from them).

Anyway, i'm still having the same problem even with the new battery. Any ideas what may be causing this problem??


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It sounds like a bad tank of gas. There could have been some water in the tank when you filled up. You could try some dry gas and see if that helps. I actually had a similar problem a few months ago.
 
Hey guys,

I have an 05 limited and for the last week or so it started having this weird slow start problem when turning the ignition. Here's how it happens:

I turn the key, it tries to start for about 3-4 seconds, then it finally turns over and starts.

I took it to the stealership on Friday and they said the battery was the problem. I spent $120+ on a new no name battery from them (would've bought a optima red top myself but they were going to charge me $53 just for the diagnosis if i didn't buy the battery from them).

Anyway, i'm still having the same problem even with the new battery. Any ideas what may be causing this problem??

How many miles? The starter contacts start to go at around 90k.
 
on 34k miles so hopefully that's not it.

I've attached a 15 second video so you can see/hear the problem.

well you have the video now. Show the dealer. It's nit the starter contacts as I didn't know your mileage and it doesn't seem like a dying battery either because of how fast it cranks. Please keep us posted.
 
Try turning the key on but don't start it. Wait 10-15seconds then go to the start position. If it lights right off I vote for fuel delivery issue. Possibly the electric fuel pump is slow to pressurize the system for some reason. It could be a weak pump or some kind of failed check valve. Good Luck:D

:cheers:
 
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Hey guys...i'm taking back to the stealership on Tuesday...I'm also going to mention that I don't appreciate their misdiagnosis costing me $120+ for the new battery etc.
 
Hey guys...i'm taking back to the stealership on Tuesday...I'm also going to mention that I don't appreciate their misdiagnosis costing me $120+ for the new battery etc.

Yea, the stock Panasonic battery is a beast - should last for at least 90k or around 5 years and even then its sill strong.

Make sure you bring that video with you.

Keep us posted!!!!
 
Yea, the stock Panasonic battery is a beast - should last for at least 90k or around 5 years and even then its sill strong.

Make sure you bring that video with you.

Keep us posted!!!!


They kept the 4runner overnight...they said they couldn't reproduce the the starting problem...he's seen the video but they he said they have reproduce at the shop also...hopfully when they do a cold start this morning it will do it.

I have the the Platinum 7 year/100,000 mile warranty through toyota financial (even though I'm in FL) that I bought back when I first bought the truck. I actually bought through a dealer on these boards like many other members here. Anyway, the electric fuel pump is covered by that warranty so hopefully I won't be paying anything out of pocket. Here' the warranty info:http://www.toyotafinancial.com/consumer/tfs.portal?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=pg_VSAComponents&selectedComp=FuelSystem

I'm not sure what to do about the battery. What are the odds my old battery is still sitting at the dealership waiting to be recycled? I know mine had a pink "05" sticker on it so I could pick it out if I had to. I hate paying $120+ for a battery that I didn't even need. I also kinda doubt they will put my old one back in and take back the new one and refund me.
 
welp...it looks like they are keeping another night...they reproduced the problem this morning and they think it's the fuel pump (like CJ3flyr & Mark86 said). They said they have been talking to the technical assistance line about the problem. Anyway, they ordered the pump and it will be there tomorrow...hopefully that will fix the problem.
 
yet another day at the stealership....the fuel pump they ordered was also bad so they have to order another one.
 
yet another day at the stealership....the fuel pump they ordered was also bad so they have to order another one.

thats BS, it means it wasnt "new"

Thanks for keeping us posted and Im glad that could recreate the issue as it seems they never ever can or it is withing normal operation.
 
The Good News:
1. I have my truck back
2. It has a new fuel pump (fully covered by my extended warranty)
3. They gave me a $75 credit since the battery wasn't the real problem and I'm keeping the new battery.

The Possible Bad News:
The lady that pulled my car up said that it had an extended start when she started it up....so I could still have the same problem I started with...my service guy said if it does it again bring it back and he'll have a loaner car waiting for me and they'll try and diagnose the problem again.

We'll see what happens tomorrow morning when I cold start it.
 
The Good News:
1. I have my truck back
2. It has a new fuel pump (fully covered by my extended warranty)
3. They gave me a $75 credit since the battery wasn't the real problem and I'm keeping the new battery.

The Possible Bad News:
The lady that pulled my car up said that it had an extended start when she started it up....so I could still have the same problem I started with...my service guy said if it does it again bring it back and he'll have a loaner car waiting for me and they'll try and diagnose the problem again.

We'll see what happens tomorrow morning when I cold start it.

Uh oh, keep us posted - thanks! Have you finished that gas yet as Mark had asked?

Random question but does anyone know that those clicks are after he starts it in the video? Mine does this as well and I was always wondering.
 
Uh oh, keep us posted - thanks! Have you finished that gas yet as Mark had asked?

Random question but does anyone know that those clicks are after he starts it in the video? Mine does this as well and I was always wondering.

I just put in a tank of premium tonight from Mobil. I always go to the same Exxon station which I would think would have good gas and I've never had the problem before so I'm not sure it will make a difference...we'll see though.
 
I just put in a tank of premium tonight......

That just sent up a red flag when I read that. I had a similar experience with my old '97 Grand Cherokee. Below is a brief description of what I experienced and and easy fix, at least in my situation,....which actually saves me money!

I bought a used '97 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0L straight 6 when I was living in FL. The owner's manual said "do not run anything below 87 octane". The standard octane options in the U.S. are 87, 89, and 93 if memory serves, and that is why most manufactures tell you not to go below that. I live in CO now and the options are 85, 87, and 91. The octane ratings are different here to compensate for the higher altitude and thinner air.

When I moved back to CO, I started experiencing rough starts with my GC almost immediately. I took it into my local shop and the first thing they asked me was what octane fuel I was running. I told them 87 and they told me to run a couple tanks of 85 to see if that would fix the problem. Sure as sh!t, running 85 fixed the problem. Now those model GC's were known to have leaky fuel injectors, especially when it is hot out (it was the middle of summer when I moved back to CO and had the issues) but FL was every bit as hot as CO and I never had that problem in FL. From what I understand, the reason is because the higher octance fuel is more susceptible to expanding, vaporizing, boiling....whatever you want to call it. It just reacts differently, especially when it is hot out, than lower octane fuel. So after that, I never experienced rough starts with my GC and I didn't have to have a single thing fixed at the shop.

Higher octane does not mean better performance. Neither the 4.0L V6 or the 4.7L V8 in our 4R's require high octane fuel, so don't waste your money. Newer engines will compensate for octane and not run any worse or better with high octane fuel. The only thing you need to be concerned about is that you run the minimum octane fuel your car calls for. Some high performance, high compression ratio cars (like many of the German cars) require high octane in order to run properly. Luckily for us, 4R's do not require high octane fuel. In this case (and I'm no expert), high octane fuel might actually be the problem, even though some people on this board run high octane fuel.

My suggestion: run a full tank or two of the cheap stuff and see if the problem persists. I know this sounds a bit simplistic but it worked for me, and it might save you a few bucks in the process.

Keep us posted.....

:cheers:
 
How many miles on her?
Do you know when the last time the spark plugs where changed?...Fuel filter?
Main battery to engine ground and body ground tight and clean?
 
How many miles on her?
Do you know when the last time the spark plugs where changed?...Fuel filter?
Main battery to engine ground and body ground tight and clean?

34k, spark plugs are original i think, new battery was put in last week, and I don't know about fuel filter.

To the above poster about gas...i've always used regular gas until lastnight when i put in premium.

I talked to toyota today and I'm going to drive it until tuesday to see if the new tank of gas makes a difference. I started ok first thing this morning which was a surprise. They are going to give me a loaner on tuesday if i have to bring back again.
 
4th gen 4R's do not have serviceable fuel filters so that shouldn't be the problem. The spark plugs on the V8's are rated to 80k or 100k miles so that shouldn't be the problem either. I wonder if there is some kind of vacuum or pressure leak. If there were, you would think it would send a fault code to the ECU but I'm sure (or I would hope) that is the first thing the dealer would check.
 

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