Speaker Replacement Opinions

[keyser_soze]

I have been thinking about upgrading the factory speakers and wanted to get some of the audio guys opinions.

I have a 2015 SR5 Premium with the navigation entune stereo. I don't have the party mode button. I like the look and feel of the factory unit. I use a thumb drive in the USB port and it works great for my music. I want a little more clarity and power from my speakers and a small sub to fill in the low end. Here is my plan...

Sound Ordinance 8in Sub SO B-8PTD
Audio Control LC2i Line Out LC2i
Kicker DS 3.5 Coax Dash DS 3.5
Kicker (2011) DS 6x8 Comp front doors DS 6x8
Kicker DS 6.5 Coax rear doors and hatch DS 6.5

I plan on running the 6x8s in the front doors and not using the crossovers and tweeters. I chose the DS series because I plan to run them off the factory amp/HU. Will the factory head unit be able to put out enough power for 4ohm 60 watts RMS speakers? Can someone confirm that the factory entune system is 4ohm?

If I go this route I can stay under $410. Does this look like it will all work together? Or should save some money and skip the speakers and just install the sub?

I have read through the following threads and got most of the information I need. I started my own thread because most of the audio threads are old, and a lot of them are referring to the 2010-2013 non entune units.

improving-stereo-sound-5th-gen
what-unbelievable-difference-kappa-3-5-dash-speakers
sub-install-stock-head-unit-questions
5th-gen-2011-te-audio-question

 

[DEERUNNER]

That Kicker series speaker appears to have about 90db sensitivity, that's a good thing. So far, I have only replaced the dash speakers and am impressed with the difference changing only those speakers has made. Your set-up should be really good.
Having the woofer will allow for a bit more volume out of the head unit.
Check the depth of the dash speakers, not a lot of depth available.
Don't spend money on component speakers if you aren't going to use the whole configuration. Look at conventional coax speakers, the DS series has one that would match and work.
You also need to purchase an amp and wiring for the woofer set up. Look for an amp a remote volume control. And a box for the woofer.
Here is a link showing simple wiring for the dash speakers.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...aker-upgrade-simple-solution-non-jbl-nav.html

 

[marshal]

personally I've always been a huge fan of Focal's speakers and Alpines R series.


i would look into JL audio's CleanSweep system, it comes with software to listen to the factory head units equalizer and brings it in line where it should be, and clarifies it. essentially its a post processor to fix what the factory head unit screws up on its own. VERY nice piece of equipment for a reasonable amount of money

 

[GoldenBoy]

That Kicker series speaker appears to have about 90db sensitivity, that's a good thing. So far, I have only replaced the dash speakers and am impressed with the difference changing only those speakers has made. Your set-up should be really good.
Having the woofer will allow for a bit more volume out of the head unit.
Check the depth of the dash speakers, not a lot of depth available.
Don't spend money on component speakers if you aren't going to use the whole configuration. Look at conventional coax speakers, the DS series has one that would match and work.
You also need to purchase an amp and wiring for the woofer set up. Look for an amp a remote volume control. And a box for the woofer.
Here is a link showing simple wiring for the dash speakers.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...aker-upgrade-simple-solution-non-jbl-nav.html

It's a powered subwoofer, the amp is built in.

Curious to hear how this turns out, looks like good value on paper.

 

[DEERUNNER]

It's a powered subwoofer, the amp is built in.
Curious to hear how this turns out, looks like good value on paper.

Yep, clicked all the links except that one. And now that I checked on it I think that woof may be disappointing, but looking forward to a review.

 

[Rbiggers]

I'm slowly building up to a setup much like you are planning.

A few months ago, I added this powered sub: Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com. It made a huge difference immediately. Fit under the passenger seat. I do not recommend this if you want to scare small children two blocks away with bass. Good for my music (alt rock mostly).

Just this past weekend I installed these Kickers in the front doors: Kicker 41KSC694 6"x9" 2-way speakers at Crutchfield.com. I also applied Dynamat to the front doors at the same time. Again, another huge upgrade in sound with this new install. These are powered by the head unit. No amp.....yet.

I might try and install Polk DB651s in the rear doors and back hatch. I have two pair sitting on a shelf collecting dust from a previous truck. Crutchfield says they won't fit in those locations due to the bracket they require. So I'm going to try and fab my own bracket that will fit. I'll Dynamat rear doors and hatch also.

All goes to say, I am not looking to spend big bucks on high end equipment and complicated installs. I'm a novice at car audio installs. I'm also not an audiophile, so the above was a BIG upgrade to my ears. Sounded like you were thinking along those lines as well. Hope this helps.

 

[rigtec]

qwe

"...Will the factory head unit be able to put out enough power for 4ohm 60 watts RMS speakers?..."

Hi keyser_soze,

The HU has a 4ohm minimum impedance rating and is designed to generate it's maximum power output into 4ohms. As far as whether it will be able to drive 60W speakers or not doesn't depend on how much power the speaker is rated for but rather, if the speaker's sensitivity rating is high enough. Even a 20 watt speaker can have a low sensitivity rating, e.g., 68dB @1w/1m.; and most 'Cheap speakers do' as a result of the loose physical tolerances associated with pressed/stamped steel speaker frames, weak magnetic structure assemblies, poorly designed/wound voice-coil formers... etc. OTOH: a high performance pro-audio driver with a 700W RMS power rating can have very high sensitivity e.g., 105dB @1w/1m or more! My guess would be that... YES, the stock hu will drive those 60W aftermarket speakers with no problem because they're known to be of reasonably good quality!

"...If I go this route I can stay under $410. Does this look like it will all work together? Or should save some money and skip the speakers and just install the sub?..."

This question is one that only you can answer. The way that you shop, and the way that you listen to your music will determine what would be right for you!

Best to you!

 

[keyser_soze]

Thanks for all the replies

Don't spend money on component speakers if you aren't going to use the whole configuration. Look at conventional coax speakers, the DS series has one that would match and work.

The components are from their 2011 line, so they are only $75. The DS 6x9 are $63, so not much of a difference. The OEM uses a 6x9 woofer in the door and a "tweeter" in the dash. Im not 100% sure but I believe the OEM setup has a "crossover" and only sends mid frequencies to the front doors and highs to the dash tweeters. I dont really want to redo the wiring so I planned on keeping the OEM setup.

Yep, clicked all the links except that one. And now that I checked on it I think that woof may be disappointing, but looking forward to a review.

I just want a budget system for the 4runner. I also like the under seat design because I don't want to lose any cargo space or have to move a sub when I'm hauling things or camping. I have a full setup in my car with a sub, components, 2 amps and an aftermarket headunit. I know this wont have the power or clarity of that.

personally I've always been a huge fan of Focal's speakers and Alpines R series.

i would look into JL audio's CleanSweep system, it comes with software to listen to the factory head units equalizer and brings it in line where it should be, and clarifies it. essentially its a post processor to fix what the factory head unit screws up on its own. VERY nice piece of equipment for a reasonable amount of money

I agree, Focal and Alpine are great. But they would put me way over my budget and if I'm going to go with high end speakers they are going to need an amp to really make them sound good and then I will have spent close to $1000

The cleansweep is nice as well, but again at $250 its just not in my budget and not really needed if I'm not going to run an amp. I did think about getting a LC7i but decided I didn't want to run an amp.

A few months ago, I added this powered sub: Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com. It made a huge difference immediately. Fit under the passenger seat. I do not recommend this if you want to scare small children two blocks away with bass. Good for my music (alt rock mostly).

Just this past weekend I installed these Kickers in the front doors: Kicker 41KSC694 6"x9" 2-way speakers at Crutchfield.com. I also applied Dynamat to the front doors at the same time. Again, another huge upgrade in sound with this new install. These are powered by the head unit. No amp.....yet.

I listen to mostly rock and metal, I know I will miss a true sub and amp setup but I'm willing to make a compromise for the price and convenience of having it under my seat.

How do you compare the kicker coax to the factory woofer sound wise? What year and stereo do you have? Does it sound like you are getting highs through the tweeter?

I have a dynamat kit as well, I plan on doing all the doors and hatch.

 

[keyser_soze]

The HU has a 4ohm minimum impedance rating and is designed to generate it's maximum power output into 4ohms. As far as whether it will be able to drive 60W speakers or not doesn't depend on how much power the speaker is rated for but rather, if the speaker's sensitivity rating is high enough. My guess would be that... YES, the stock hu will drive those 60W aftermarket speakers with no problem because they're known to be of reasonably good quality!

This is the reply I was looking for. I have done quite a few audio installs but when it comes to numbers and what works well with other components I like to get the opinion of the true audio guys.

Those kickers have 90dB sensitivity rating. Ive never actually used kicker speakers, they just seem like decent quality at a good price.

What are your thoughts on using just the 6x8 from a component setup for the front door VS running a standard 6x9 3 way?

 

[skylinekin]

Have you seen the Toyota specific Focal components?

Focal IS 690TOY 6"x9" component speaker system designed to fit select Toyotas at Crutchfield.com

 

[Landy]

Have you seen the Toyota specific Focal components?

Focal IS 690TOY 6"x9" component speaker system designed to fit select Toyotas at Crutchfield.com

x2 I am very pleased with these speakers. Very easy to install and built to work with the factory head unit. They are more expensive than what you were looking for, but this is the only upgrade I've made and it made my 4Runner sound system MUCH better to the point that I haven't thought about upgrading anything else.

They have a scratch and dent set for $45 off as well.

 

[Weyland-Yutani]

:worthless

 

[rigtec]

"...What are your thoughts on using just the 6x8 from a component setup for the front door VS running a standard 6x9 3 way?..."

Well... a 3-way mid-bass driver is going to offer a bit more clarity in it's intended frequency range because it's able to separate and focus the program material into three different parts... mid-bass, upper-mid, and high (or mid/high)! Did I understand you to say that you no longer intend to use the dash speakers/x-overs? If so, that could be a huge mistake. High frequencies, unlike the low-end, don't do well when asked to turn corners or to go around obstacles because they're incredibly 'Directional', and so tend to need a clear shot at their intended target... the listeners ears! Locating your (High frequency) speakers down below the seat cushion (w/o the assistance of their dashboard counterparts), would be a negligent waste of precious output resource from an already anemic (12-19 watt) hu amplifier!

Why did you consider using a 6x8 component speaker instead of a proper 6x9 coaxial? Is the reason that... "it was not being used and it was available FOR FREE"... just curious? I'm trying to find out what you're sound system objective is. I've had my truck for about three yrs now, and during that time I must have spent, somewhere upwards of $5K (including a new 270A alternator and bigger cables), and that's just on the Low-End system; I'm still not finished. My reason for saying that is because I really don't see the point of building or modifying anything unless it's done right or... why do it(?); but that's just my obsessive compulsivity lol! I'd like to encourage you to: plan, then plan, then plan again 'BEFORE you spend'. Figure out EXACTLY what you would like for your end result to be... that's not always the easiest thing to do when you're working on a tight budget; but that's the point. You'll waste a lot of good money building a system without an intended, deliberate finish!

Cheers!

 

[keyser_soze]

Have you seen the Toyota specific Focal components?

Focal IS 690TOY 6"x9" component speaker system designed to fit select Toyotas at Crutchfield.com

Yes, and Im sure they are great speakers but they are $300 for just the front. That is just not in my budget for the 4runer.

:worthless

I ordered the sub yesterday, I will order the rest of the speakers as soon as I decide what I want to do with the front speakers. Then pics...

Well... a 3-way mid-bass driver is going to offer a bit more clarity in it's intended frequency range because it's able to separate and focus the program material into three different parts... mid-bass, upper-mid, and high (or mid/high)! Did I understand you to say that you no longer intend to use the dash speakers/x-overs? If so, that could be a huge mistake. High frequencies, unlike the low-end, don't do well when asked to turn corners or to go around obstacles because they're incredibly 'Directional', and so tend to need a clear shot at their intended target... the listeners ears! Locating your (High frequency) speakers down below the seat cushion (w/o the assistance of their dashboard counterparts), would be a negligent waste of precious output resource from an already anemic (12-19 watt) hu amplifier!

I think you misunderstood what I meant. I plan to use the Kicker DS 3.5" coax DS 3.5" in the dash. I was thinking about running the Kicker 6x8 component 6x8 componentin the door (and not using the crossover or kicker tweeter).

Its my understanding that the factory system is setup somewhat like a component system with a crossover for the front door and dash speakers. Mids go to the door 6x9s and highs go to the dash tweeters. I have seen other people go with component setups in the front for their builds as well. This is why I wanted to use a component speaker in the front door.

Otherwise I can just go with the DS 6x9 3-way speaker DS 6x9and save a small amount of money.

 

[rigtec]

I think you misunderstood what I meant. I plan to use the Kicker DS 3.5" coax DS 3.5" in the dash. I was thinking about running the Kicker 6x8 component 6x8 componentin the door (and not using the crossover or kicker tweeter).

Its my understanding that the factory system is setup somewhat like a component system with a crossover for the front door and dash speakers. Mids go to the door 6x9s and highs go to the dash tweeters. I have seen other people go with component setups in the front for their builds as well. This is why I wanted to use a component speaker in the front door.

Otherwise I can just go with the DS 6x9 3-way speaker DS 6x9and save a small amount of money.

Clearly I did misunderstand your plan... "but I'm glad that I did!" The 'KICKER' 6x8 and 6x9 both, appear to be EXCELLENT choices in all aspects; price, quality... and may have convinced me to indulge myself with a pair! Thanks for posting those,

Cheers!

 

[Rbiggers]

Thanks for all the replies


I listen to mostly rock and metal, I know I will miss a true sub and amp setup but I'm willing to make a compromise for the price and convenience of having it under my seat.

How do you compare the kicker coax to the factory woofer sound wise? What year and stereo do you have? Does it sound like you are getting highs through the tweeter?

I have a dynamat kit as well, I plan on doing all the doors and hatch.

I think you will be happy with a powered sub under the passenger seat if you are listening to rock and metal. I didn't need an amp and big sub, either. I've had those in the past, but I need all the space I have now with two kids.

My new Kicker 41KSC694 are a big upgrade to the factory woofer that they replaced in the front doors. The highs are definitely coming through the tweeter and they provide a bunch more clarity (to my ears). The sensitivity rating on these is 92dB, which was a big deciding factor. I looked at the Focal direct replacements mentioned above, but Crutchfield suggested that I would be just as happy with these Kickers for lots less money, and they were right. Now again, this is a perfect fit for me. Not saying the Kickers are superior to the Focals. Just saying that, for my budget and novice ear, they are excellent.

I have a 2014 SR5 Premium with the factory Entune head unit.

 

[keyser_soze]

My new Kicker 41KSC694 are a big upgrade to the factory woofer that they replaced in the front doors. The highs are definitely coming through the tweeter and they provide a bunch more clarity (to my ears).

I have a 2014 SR5 Premium with the factory Entune head unit.

Looks like I will go with the 6x9 3-ways then. Thanks for the info. I wonder if its just the dash speakers that have a high pass filter on them

 

[jasonv]

Have you seen the Toyota specific Focal components?

Focal IS 690TOY 6"x9" component speaker system designed to fit select Toyotas at Crutchfield.com

awesome, thanks

 

[jasonv]

I have been thinking about upgrading the factory speakers and wanted to get some of the audio guys opinions.

I have a 2015 SR5 Premium with the navigation entune stereo. I don't have the party mode button. I like the look and feel of the factory unit. I use a thumb drive in the USB port and it works great for my music. I want a little more clarity and power from my speakers and a small sub to fill in the low end. Here is my plan...

Sound Ordinance 8in Sub SO B-8PTD
Audio Control LC2i Line Out LC2i
Kicker DS 3.5 Coax Dash DS 3.5
Kicker (2011) DS 6x8 Comp front doors DS 6x8
Kicker DS 6.5 Coax rear doors and hatch DS 6.5

I plan on running the 6x8s in the front doors and not using the crossovers and tweeters. I chose the DS series because I plan to run them off the factory amp/HU. Will the factory head unit be able to put out enough power for 4ohm 60 watts RMS speakers? Can someone confirm that the factory entune system is 4ohm?

If I go this route I can stay under $410. Does this look like it will all work together? Or should save some money and skip the speakers and just install the sub?

I have read through the following threads and got most of the information I need. I started my own thread because most of the audio threads are old, and a lot of them are referring to the 2010-2013 non entune units.

improving-stereo-sound-5th-gen
what-unbelievable-difference-kappa-3-5-dash-speakers
sub-install-stock-head-unit-questions
5th-gen-2011-te-audio-question

thanks for starting this thread, i will be watching with interest. i have read all the old threads too and this is perfect timing for some reasonably priced upgrades.

i am an idiot when it comes to this stuff, where does this go?

Audio Control LC2i Line Out LC2i.

do you just tuck it up under the dash somewhere?

 

[keyser_soze]

I am an idiot when it comes to this stuff, where does this go?

Audio Control LC2i Line Out LC2i.

do you just tuck it up under the dash somewhere?

The LC2i is a line out converter since the factory head unit doesn't have outputs. I'm probably going to mount it under the passenger seat and mount the sub under the driver seat.

Does anyone have any info on the 2015 entune head unit? Model number or anything I can look up? I'm curious how many watts and ohms it is rated at.