blcktpgsr
New member
Good info. And i can buy longer studs at any parts store or do i need to go to the stealership? seems like it's already been done in the past. Thanks Liny aka McGyver:thumb3:
Spidertrax install makes me nervous...
- Thread starter Lignum
- Start date
Good info. And i can buy longer studs at any parts store or do i need to go to the stealership? seems like it's already been done in the past. Thanks Liny aka McGyver:thumb3:
J.A.
Senior Member
So if they are already going to be loose after 50 miles bgmac then what's to stop them from coming loose another 50 later? I remember at one shop, after a rotation, they told me to come back in 100 miles to re-torque. That never made any sense to me. Can someone explain why a re-torque somehow won't come loose if the original torque came loose?
Personally, I would locktite and torque at 85 when you're done driving for the day and let it sit overnight. Wait the 50 miles and set your wrench at 83 that way if they are still tight you don't break the locktite. Does that make any sense or am I off my rocker?
When installing the lug nuts on the spidertrax for the first time the lugs are new. After the 50 miles or so, the new lugs can stretch and the lug nuts can become loose, hence the need to re-torque. After that initial sequence the lugs dont really stretch anymore and stay tight. After using the loctite after the initial stretch, I do what you suggest which is to set the torque wrench a few pounds lower for subsequent checks and if they dont move you should be good to go. I agree that you dont want to break the loctite seal when checking torque.
Lignum
New member
Update!
Ok, I got an email back from Spidertrax, so if I wreck and get real hurt, I blame them....lol
Here it is:
Dear Geoff,
Thanks for the email and the link to your install photo. Although I would agree the photo “looks” questionable, rest assured the amount of tread engagement appears to be correct.
In an effort to avoid improper installation of lug nuts, we have opted to include "bulge" style lug nuts which prevent the lug nut from being installed backwards. As a result, the lug nut is much taller than OE so it ends up having unused threads.
For an OE application using M12 or 1/2" studs (fine thread) you would like to see about 0.550" of thread engagement and your photo appears to be there. As an interesting comparison, check out this photo which shows the installation of a bulge style lug nut and a non-bulge style lug nut on your spacer - http://files.spidertrax.com/images/whs007_lugnut_install.jpg . Although the non-bulge style lug nut appears to have more thread engagement the fact is both lug nuts have the exact same engagement in this shot.
If you have any other questions or concerns regarding your installation please do not hesitate to contact us anytime. We are always happy to help.
Sincerely,
Thomas J. Kingston, ME
Ok, I got an email back from Spidertrax, so if I wreck and get real hurt, I blame them....lol
Here it is:
Dear Geoff,
Thanks for the email and the link to your install photo. Although I would agree the photo “looks” questionable, rest assured the amount of tread engagement appears to be correct.
In an effort to avoid improper installation of lug nuts, we have opted to include "bulge" style lug nuts which prevent the lug nut from being installed backwards. As a result, the lug nut is much taller than OE so it ends up having unused threads.
For an OE application using M12 or 1/2" studs (fine thread) you would like to see about 0.550" of thread engagement and your photo appears to be there. As an interesting comparison, check out this photo which shows the installation of a bulge style lug nut and a non-bulge style lug nut on your spacer - http://files.spidertrax.com/images/whs007_lugnut_install.jpg . Although the non-bulge style lug nut appears to have more thread engagement the fact is both lug nuts have the exact same engagement in this shot.
If you have any other questions or concerns regarding your installation please do not hesitate to contact us anytime. We are always happy to help.
Sincerely,
Thomas J. Kingston, ME
martini
New member
Looks like we are OK!
Thanks for taking the time to post the response from Spidertrax. I installed Spidertrax recently and my fronts look like yours and not like J.A's for some reason even though I have the same year/model as he does in the picture on the first page. Good to know I don't have to worry about them, I wonder why the front studs are shorter or if they are the same length and the hub is just wider.
Singtoe
New member
I know that Spidertrax said it was ok but I still would put long studs in. You never know who might work on your 4runner in the future and over torque those nuts and strip them out. Replacing 12 studs is easy and will probably cost you $24 .
Definitely worth the cost of a Movie date for 2.
Definitely worth the cost of a Movie date for 2.
98OzarksRunner
New member
The studs should be at least even with the nuts. If not, something's wrong, and probably dangerous.
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martini
New member
Any walk through videos or guides for how to do this?
Do you know the part numbers or specifics on the longer studs?
I'm also working on tracking down a vibration that seemed to have started at highway speeds only at certain times since installing the spacers. I've taken them off to "balance" them, by cleaning off the hub and spacer really well, then trying my best to center the lugs as best I can even though they are hub centric. One other question is it normal to have a little play in the spacer around the hub or should it be really snug?
SRSRunner
New member
Now see this is exactly why I myself shy away from spacers that large lol.. Now I understand with some wheels there's just no getting around it but still, If it were me I'd be buying longer studs just for peace of mind regardless of what some desk jockey says. I'm running a 5/16s spacer with the stock wheels- also did longer studs. Its an easy swap do it exactly how liny said and you'll be golden.
blcktpgsr
New member
You're missing the logic of wheel spacer/adapter here. 1.25" or 5/16" spacer doesn't matter, it's the same idea..only with the 1.25" you use a different set of wheel studs to mount the wheels onto, with the 5/16" you use the originals studs.
The reason for replacing the stock studs with the longer ones is because, both spacer application shortens the effective length of the stud & nut tread engagement when you mount the wheels.........by about the same amount of 1/4'- 5/16".
martini
New member
I checked these again and they are snug around the hub, so I was mistaken about this. I took off the spacers to make sure I didn't lose a wheel weight, and I have no vibration without the spacers. I'm going to try and move them around to different locations next.
brian2sun
Elite Member
Check out Motorsport Technology. A good friend of mine owns the company and they are actually the original wheel spacer company. They are also hub and lug centric. PM me and I can probably get you a discount.
Gerdo
New member
That is awesome. I may need to contact them about some adapters. 4 on 4.5" to 4 on 156mm.
brian2sun
Elite Member
Let me know before you do and I can probably save you some $$! I just ordered a pair of 1" hub/lug centric spacers today for the rear of my truck and I got them for a lot cheaper than the Spidertrax. Their adapters and spacers are very good quality also. I've been running them on the front of mine for about 3 years now.
I also like that they will do custom thicknesses too. I didn't want 1.25" because that would be just more clearancing for me to do for my 35s and honestly, I've pounded the firewall back as far as it will go and it's just enough to not rub with stock wheels and 1" spacers. The 1" are also just long enough to not interfere with the stock studs too because they have holes for the few excess threads to go into (in between the new studs on the spacer).
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blcktpgsr
New member
I pulled all 4 wheels just to check my spacer bolt torques. Every nut was to spec. I also took a picture on my front. My lug bolts come past the nuts that Spidertrax supplied.
How long have you had your Spidertrax now?
Look at the difference in size between the nuts they provided on May last year when I bought mine, compared to the nuts that came with the kit I bought yesterday for my brother...1/4" shorter this time.
That was the reason I changed my bolts, because of the longer nuts which went past the stock bolts.
BrianSD_42
New member
blcktpgsr,
I'm confused. Sorry but is the good one on the left?
If Spidertrax is now shipping the shorter nuts then shouldn't the bolts be sticking out of the nuts instead of being recessed? I mean those bolts are actually still the factory wheel bolts correct?
I guess I am not really understanding the differences. If there is a suspicion that these new bolts don't cut it for us overly cautious members, perhaps we can put all-pro lug nuts on the SpiderTrax or just go with All-Pro.
I am leaning towards the SpiderTrax for 2 reasons that some people might consider stupid:
1) SpiderTrax are slightly more expensive, I assume there could be a 5-20% difference in steel quality
2) SpiderTrax are anodized blue
I'm confused. Sorry but is the good one on the left?
If Spidertrax is now shipping the shorter nuts then shouldn't the bolts be sticking out of the nuts instead of being recessed? I mean those bolts are actually still the factory wheel bolts correct?
I guess I am not really understanding the differences. If there is a suspicion that these new bolts don't cut it for us overly cautious members, perhaps we can put all-pro lug nuts on the SpiderTrax or just go with All-Pro.
I am leaning towards the SpiderTrax for 2 reasons that some people might consider stupid:
1) SpiderTrax are slightly more expensive, I assume there could be a 5-20% difference in steel quality
2) SpiderTrax are anodized blue
