Spinoff thread: Manual A.D.D. switch?

[white_n_slow]

Is it possible to make a manual switch to engage/disengage the ADD independent of the transfer case shifter? This is for a 5-speed with the "J" pattern shifter.

Reason I ask, is this would allow me to run an auto locker in the front and keep the truck 3-wheel drive (both rears and passenger front) for on-road snow or ice conditions and light off-road use. And then flip the switch to engage all four wheels and full front locker use.

I have pondered the idea of an auto locker and manual hubs to achieve the same goal, but this would allow me to do the same thing from inside the cab (and could potentially be a lot cheaper and less work than installing manual hubs).

Has anyone done this? Any ideas on how this might be accomplished?


BTW: this is a spinoff of my front diff thread, but I figured it was a separate topic worthy of it's own conversation.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/144888-tacoma-front-diff-interchangeable-3rd-gen.html

 

[white_n_slow]

anybody? *crickets*

 

[Doc2012]

I'm sure you CAN do it. The only questions are, how much do you know about wiring, and are you willing to have to work it all out?

Just go with manual hubs man. So what if you have to get out of the truck to lock them in? It takes 10 seconds, IF that.

Cost, I hear ya there, but there are so many more advantages of running Manual Hubs and CVs instead of the ADD.

Just my .01.

 

[snivilous]

What do you mean by 3-wheel drive? Like only one wheel in the front is getting power? I think that would make the vehicle behave weirdly when driving, especially if on snow or ice because the front end will always be pulling to one side.

 

[white_n_slow]

Yeah, when in "4wd" it would be the rear wheels, and the front passenger side engaged. I know it sounds weird, but a fair number of solid-axle folks run an auto-locker in the front and just lock one hub when they need the added traction for snow or ice on the road or when doing light or moderate wheeling. Then when you need a front locker for an obstacle, you just engage all 4 wheels and you're locked. I've never experienced it first hand, but I've never heard any reports of it "pulling." And 3x4 open should be safer for driving than 4x4 with an auto locker in the front, as far as I can imagine.

 

[white_n_slow]

I'm sure you CAN do it. The only questions are, how much do you know about wiring, and are you willing to have to work it all out?

Just go with manual hubs man. So what if you have to get out of the truck to lock them in? It takes 10 seconds, IF that.

Cost, I hear ya there, but there are so many more advantages of running Manual Hubs and CVs instead of the ADD.

Just my .01.

I know very little about wiring and electronics scare me. Wiring up a stereo is about as much as I have done in the past. That's why I'm hoping someone else may have done it before so I'll have some instructions to follow. I'm probably not the person to blaze a trail here.

 

[Doc2012]

Honestly man,

If you want to lock the front, more power to you. Using an auto locker, Even more balls.

Though they're not cheap, go with an ARB or other part time locker.

If you Auto lock the front, chances are you're going to end up spending just as much, if not MORE, on CVs because they will keep breaking, at least the drivers side, because it's going to spin more, and be CONSTANTLY pulling. All it'll take is one slip, and that CVs gone.

Go Selectable man. It's worth it.

 

[KidVermicious]

Yeah, when in "4wd" it would be the rear wheels, and the front passenger side engaged. I know it sounds weird, but a fair number of solid-axle folks run an auto-locker in the front and just lock one hub when they need the added traction for snow or ice on the road or when doing light or moderate wheeling. Then when you need a front locker for an obstacle, you just engage all 4 wheels and you're locked. I've never experienced it first hand, but I've never heard any reports of it "pulling." And 3x4 open should be safer for driving than 4x4 with an auto locker in the front, as far as I can imagine.

The difference there is, those solid axle guys don't go around pavement with the selector in 4wd. They unlock one hub on pavement because they're lazy and don't want to unlock both, and they have to unlock at least one or the autolocker will engage to make steering difficult whether or not they've selected 4wd and have power to the front shaft. They don't unlock one hub to give themselves 3wd on pavement. Nobody I know would even consider 3wd, that'd be horrible in the corners and even worse in the slick stuff.

When you see them unlock a hub off pavement, it's just so they can negotiate a tight corner, then they lock it right back up. It's not to achieve three wheel drive, it's to make the diff let go so they don't have to make a seven point turn around that switchback.

 

[white_n_slow]

I'm a former FJ60 wheeler (and solid axle mini truck) and I have read up on a few guys in the FJ60 forum on ih8mud who run 3wd on the pavement in winter. They seemed to think it was a reasonable, if somewhat ghetto compromise. But then, the 60 doesn't have the flimsy CV axle issues our 3rd gens have. Or at least not to the same extent.

I know an ARB is really the best solution and what I would prefer to do, I'm just concerned it is cost prohibitive.

 

[Doc2012]

I know an ARB is really the best solution and what I would prefer to do, I'm just concerned it is cost prohibitive.

Concerned about what? WTH is there to be concerned about with an ARB?

You get the best of both worlds. You get a 1) a SELECTABLE locker, and 2) a freaking compressor!

The compressor is a LIFE saver. I go to the beach here, I air down(my tires are sh¡t, in the hunt for new ones), and rather than having to drive on 20PSI to the nearest gas station, about 10-15 miles away, I just pull over and air them back up. The compressor I have does my 265/75/16 from 20PSI, ± 5psi, to 45 PSI ±, in less than 5 minutes. Now, this compressor is about 3-4 years old, so you can expect that ARB has made better compressors since then.

If you want a better compressor, all you have to do is order one, then plug and play.

The compressor is already in the truck, hardwired to the battery, so all you have to do is flip a switch.

Yea, sure, you can go get one of the Vivair compressors, take it out of the back of the rig, bring it to the front, hook it up, move it around while you're filling your tires, unhook it, bring it back to the trunk, load it all back up, blah blah blah.

OR, you can just take the hose out of the back of the truck, plug it into the compressor under the hood, attach it to your tires, and go from there.

If you got/made one of those "4 tire filler" thingys, it would be even easier to do.

WADR, the only concern I see here is the fact that you want NOW. Not a good way to go with a rig. Save up for an ARB man. You will be GLAD you did.

Just got off the phone with ECGS.

The ARB kit from them is 1040.86. ARB is, through the end of the month, throwing in a FREE mini Compressor.

If you wait, a Mini Compressor is 169. A High Output compressor is 275.

So, yes, a little expensive. But save money up, and do it the right way. Don't rush into it and get fùcked be having something that keeps breaking sh¡t.

 

[white_n_slow]

I carry a portable air compressor (one of the $50 SuperFlow amazon.com ones that seem to be pretty popular), and yes, I use it all the time. I air down to 16psi for most trails and back up to 35psi when I hit the pavement. It takes about 20 minutes to air up, which isn't great. I was thinking of hard-mounting it (as I have read about on this forum) and adding a tank to speed things up.

Really the only problem with ARB is:
1) I'm a cheap-ass
2) I don't feel confident installing it myself, whereas I have already installed a couple lunchbox lockers and they're a breeze. Installation, of course, means $$$
3) Did I mention I'm a cheap-ass?

 

[Singtoe]

To answer the OP

Yes, You can make a switch to turn the ADD on or off.

Just splicing a wire.

Run a switch on the solid blue wire on the transfer case.

Put an extension wire on it and mount the switch in a more convenient spot.

When the switch is on, the 4wd system will work like it is supposed to.
When the switch is off, it disconnects the wire, making the 4wd system think it is in 2wd.

 

[Kurtis]

Locking 1 hub in the snow is quite common. It helps with turning more than anything else. Though I don't recommend running around all the time, it doesn't hurt to run like that in some slick stuff just as long as you are not beating the **** out of your rig.

 

[mien4x4]

To answer the OP

Yes, You can make a switch to turn the ADD on or off.

Just splicing a wire.

Run a switch on the solid blue wire on the transfer case.

Put an extension wire on it and mount the switch in a more convenient spot.

When the switch is on, the 4wd system will work like it is supposed to.
When the switch is off, it disconnects the wire, making the 4wd system think it is in 2wd.

is this the same for auto tran? n how does this give you three wheel drive when its wired to your transcase? wont it need to be wired some where to yor diff?

 

[Doc2012]

No. Because your front diff is what has the ADD in it. Hence the name, Automatic Disconnecting DIFFERENTIAL.

Now, the 4x4 light might be messed up, but that's about it.

All the t-case does it send a signal to the front diff telling it to switch the sleeve over so the passenger side engages. The driver side is always spinning/engaged.

 

[Singtoe]

is this the same for auto tran? n how does this give you three wheel drive when its wired to your transcase? wont it need to be wired some where to yor diff?

Yes, it is the same for auto tran.

It will only give you 3 wheel drive if you have a lockrite, aussie locker, spool or lincoln locker in your front diff.

The front diff really has no wires to it (just a sensor to tell the dashboard that it is in 4x4).

2001 and up replace the vacuum actuator with an electronic actuator. But the putting a switch in the blue wire at the transfer case will work for it too.

 

[mien4x4]

Yes, it is the same for auto tran.

It will only give you 3 wheel drive if you have a lockrite, aussie locker, spool or lincoln locker in your front diff.

The front diff really has no wires to it (just a sensor to tell the dashboard that it is in 4x4).

2001 and up replace the vacuum actuator with an electronic actuator. But the putting a switch in the blue wire at the transfer case will work for it too.

ok yea that makes since now that u an Doc mention all that and yeaI lincoln lock my front when I put my manual hubs on. the reason why I want to do this mod so where is this blue wire located at?

 

[Singtoe]

ok yea that makes since now that u an Doc mention all that and yeaI lincoln lock my front when I put my manual hubs on. the reason why I want to do this mod so where is this blue wire located at?

It is located on one of the switches on the transfer case. Look for the solid blue wire. Unless you have a limited, and in that case, look for the brown with yellow stripe.

 

[white_n_slow]

Thanks for the info Singtoe. That gives me something to ponder while I have my front diff out.