sPOD Bantam Wiring Suggestions

[Bugser]

Wiring question:

The Bantam has a maximum of 8 switches that can be controlled by a touch screen or independent AOB type switches. Of those 8 possible switches, 2 can be controlled if the ignition is turned on, meaning the other 6 are always active and lights or devices can accidentally be left "on", such as a CB radio, etc. Great for a fridge though.

Since an AOB switch sends 12v to the Bantam to control on/off, that's great if you have 8 of them on the dash. Problem solved. However, I only plan on 4 AOB's and the remaining 4 (or should additional Bantams be added) to be controlled by the touch screen.

The question, how can the remaining 6 be controlled by the ignition? The only solution that I see is a relay in the main battery feed controlled by the 12v ignition. However, I'm not keen on a relay since the Bantam is capable of 100A.

What am I missing gurus??

 

[Dillusion]

Doesn't the SPOD come with a low voltage cutoff? So you don't need to worry.

 

[comtn4x4]

Have you contacted John at SPod? He's the best one to ask. He's been amazing in helping me out with my SPod and some issues I was having. I'd go to him first before. He responds to e-mails and calls very quickly

 

[comtn4x4]

Doesn't the SPOD come with a low voltage cutoff? So you don't need to worry.

It does although I think what the OP is wanting is lights that go off with the ignition. The low voltage cutoff could take hours before it shuts off depending on the draw

 

[Dillusion]

The part about being accidentally left on caught my eye so I assumed thats what he was talking about.

Prolly will need to move wires for the 12V feed to the relay. Not sure if its soldered on the circuit board or just a matter of moving a wire. I don't have a spod anymore to look at. Looking at voiding their warranty though.

 

[comtn4x4]

The part about being accidentally left on caught my eye so I assumed thats what he was talking about.

Prolly will need to move wires for the 12V feed to the relay. Not sure if its soldered on the circuit board or just a matter of moving a wire. I don't have a spod anymore to look at. Looking at voiding their warranty though.

I'm not sure but I think the only workaround is to connect everything to those 2 switches. Some downside to that though.
I don't have anything hooked to the ignition on my SPod. I just need to remember to turn them off

 

[Dillusion]

Well if you don't mind one switch controlling multiple things and keep the amperage under I don't see a problem.

Only sucks to have 8 switches and use 2.

 

[Bugser]

It does although I think what the OP is wanting is lights that go off with the ignition. The low voltage cutoff could take hours before it shuts off depending on the draw

Thanks, comtn4x4, yes that is correct in that the goal is for everything to go off with the ignition. Forgot about the low voltage cutoff feature. The unit is connected on the bench for testing with a 13.8v supply and found that when the voltage was lowered to 12v, the switch cut out. My concerns may be unnecessary based on that fact. The truck should probably start with 12v.

Someone mentioned linking the switches together, however, if switches 1 and 2 are controlled by the ignition voltages, even linking switches 3 through 8 to either switch 1 or 2 will allow them to be hot.

I think the solution was right in front of me comtn4x4...thanks again for pointing it out!

 

[comtn4x4]

Thanks, comtn4x4, yes that is correct in that the goal is for everything to go off with the ignition. Forgot about the low voltage cutoff feature. The unit is connected on the bench for testing with a 13.8v supply and found that when the voltage was lowered to 12v, the switch cut out. My concerns may be unnecessary based on that fact. The truck should probably start with 12v.

Someone mentioned linking the switches together, however, if switches 1 and 2 are controlled by the ignition voltages, even linking switches 3 through 8 to either switch 1 or 2 will allow them to be hot.

I think the solution was right in front of me comtn4x4...thanks again for pointing it out!

I'm not sure I understand, but are you implying you would daisy chain the switches? (Negatives hooked to individual switches and all the positives to either 1 o2?) I know from experience that hooking something to multiple switches doesn't work and errors out the controller

 

[firegod33r]

Wiring question:

The Bantam has a maximum of 8 switches that can be controlled by a touch screen or independent AOB type switches. Of those 8 possible switches, 2 can be controlled if the ignition is turned on, meaning the other 6 are always active and lights or devices can accidentally be left "on", such as a CB radio, etc. Great for a fridge though.

Since an AOB switch sends 12v to the Bantam to control on/off, that's great if you have 8 of them on the dash. Problem solved. However, I only plan on 4 AOB's and the remaining 4 (or should additional Bantams be added) to be controlled by the touch screen.

The question, how can the remaining 6 be controlled by the ignition? The only solution that I see is a relay in the main battery feed controlled by the 12v ignition. However, I'm not keen on a relay since the Bantam is capable of 100A.

What am I missing gurus??

Were you ever able to get switch 1 and or 2 to work with the ignition cutout option? When move the #3 dip switch up to activate the ignition ON feature my lights just turn off. I can’t get that feature to work for some reason. Am I suppose to make any other connections?