My truck has decided to randomly not crank at times, the battery checks out as well as the alternator. The guy at advance auto said the starter checked out too, I dont know. When I turn the key all the way to start, the electronics all come on as usual, as well as the fuel pump. There's a loud click sound, and nothing. Several attempts has gotten it going so far, and repeatedly turning the key back to start also gets it going. Once it cranks it has no issues running, and doesn't seem to have any issues turning over. I don't know if this is the ignition switch, starter, or maybe just the contacts. On a good note I replaced my plugs and wires today (Denso plugs/NGK wires) and the truck runs much smoother, it was overdue for the plugs. Any help with the starting thing would be awesome!
Starting issue, advice/opinons?
- Thread starter USMC0351
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Dutch-Runner '99
Member
Surprisingly I was also just about to post the exact same question.... So hopefully this bump will help both of us. I was leaning towards the starter contacts that seem to be the culprit over most everyone's starting woes. I too just get a very audible 'click' from time to time when I attempt to start my 1999 Runner and after cycling the key a few times it will miraculously work. Once it is running there is absolutely no problems as well.
triumphrdr
New member
It is most likely not the starter, those rarely go out.
I just had this happen to me over Labor Day weekend. The electronics come on with no problems when the ignition is in the accessory position. However, when I would turn to the on position, there was a slight delay and then when the starter would catch, the vehicle started without any problems.
I took it to an independent shop that works on Toyota/Lexus/Scion and they diagnosed the problem to be the contacts.
Replaced the contacts and plunger with the Contact Kit and new Plunger. Apparently the plunger is done at the same time as the new contacts.
Part numbers:
28235-54380 Plunger, Starter
28226-72010 Contact Kit, Starter
28226-54340 Contact Kit, Starter
Not sure how the parts are replaced, but the shop showed me the old contacts, which were very pitted and broken down.
Truck starts instantly when I turn the key now.
I just had this happen to me over Labor Day weekend. The electronics come on with no problems when the ignition is in the accessory position. However, when I would turn to the on position, there was a slight delay and then when the starter would catch, the vehicle started without any problems.
I took it to an independent shop that works on Toyota/Lexus/Scion and they diagnosed the problem to be the contacts.
Replaced the contacts and plunger with the Contact Kit and new Plunger. Apparently the plunger is done at the same time as the new contacts.
Part numbers:
28235-54380 Plunger, Starter
28226-72010 Contact Kit, Starter
28226-54340 Contact Kit, Starter
Not sure how the parts are replaced, but the shop showed me the old contacts, which were very pitted and broken down.
Truck starts instantly when I turn the key now.
Dutch-Runner '99
Member
Also after more searching of the forum I found this build/repair Thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63228-another-starter-contacts-removal-thread.html
On page 5 someone comments saying:
"As others have said, the symptom I had was a single click when I went to start the engine. Day one, after a few tries it would start. Three days later, the truck would not start at all."
So it sounds like replacing the plunger and internal copper contacts will fix our problems... Kits online are about $13 for all three items and looks alright to be a DIY project.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63228-another-starter-contacts-removal-thread.html
On page 5 someone comments saying:
"As others have said, the symptom I had was a single click when I went to start the engine. Day one, after a few tries it would start. Three days later, the truck would not start at all."
So it sounds like replacing the plunger and internal copper contacts will fix our problems... Kits online are about $13 for all three items and looks alright to be a DIY project.
triumphrdr
New member
Yes, definitely do!
I was on a road trip to Denver and it didn't start after pulling into a rest stop. Very scary when you are hundreds of miles from the next town with a decent shop. On about the 10th try, it started.:whoo:
Needless to say, I left it running the rest of the road trip, sans gas refills.
I was on a road trip to Denver and it didn't start after pulling into a rest stop. Very scary when you are hundreds of miles from the next town with a decent shop. On about the 10th try, it started.:whoo:
Needless to say, I left it running the rest of the road trip, sans gas refills.
Dutch-Runner '99
Member
I'm leaning towards having a local trusted shop replace my starter with a 'new' re-manufactured Remy starter.... Remy takes OEM starters and re-manufactures them. I'll then keep my original starter, replace the plunger/contacts myself, and have it as a spare after the 3-year warranty expires on the 'new to me' starter.
Edit: And the price isn't much either.
Edit: And the price isn't much either.
Dutch-Runner '99
Member
I feel ya, College books are killer on the wallet.... I'll try to remember to post pics of my old contacts/plunger when I get around to replacing them on this thread. I've been having the "click" problem for about a month and a half now, so I'm sure they are pretty horrible. My apt with the mechanic's shop is on the 16th
Dutch-Runner '99
Member
How long have you been having these problems? (Knock on wood).... I feel like I must be one lucky SOB because I've been dealing with the problem for what seems like forever and it hasn't progressed to being as bad as yours seems to be. I've just had the 'click' and then it'll start after about 5 cycles of the key normally
Well I haven't had interwebz (just got moved into my new place so I've been a little occupied) but I did get the contacts and plunger replaced and she starts likea champ!:girl: But I can say I never want to do that again, maneuvering the starter around in it's little space was a pain. The thing fought me the whole way, I just wanted to :AK47::AK47::gun6::gun6:
But it's done and all seems well for now. I think my driveshaft u-joints are going to be next, I'm getting the "clunk" when coming to a stop, and it feels like they're binding when starting to move from a stop.
Dutch-Runner '99
Member
Sweet! Both of our probs have been resolved then; I had my shop replace the starter and it's working great. I still have the original starter so it'll be added to my collection of replacement parts for down the road.
Have you been lubing the drive-shaft regularly?
Have you been lubing the drive-shaft regularly?
I've been a little negligent on that. But if it's as easy to pull the driveshaft(s) as it was on the '03 Z71I had previously, then I may just have the joints replaced. The shop I use only charges $40 to remove and press in joints, if you remove the shaft yourself. Lubing them has been suggested before so then again, I may take the advice lol.
Dutch-Runner '99
Member
I have no experience with taking off our drive-shafts... but I have read a few threads here where guys have taken the shafts off while on the trail b/c of failed parts so it can't be that hard if they can do it with limited tools on the trail. I pump in a good bit of lube every time I change my oil (3,000-4,000 miles) as well as lube my moon roof.
Dutch-Runner '99
Member
Yeah, they are normal Zerk fittings, 3 on the front and 5 for the rear. Here is a link to their locations... some are hard to find if you haven't found them before:
4Runners.org - Lubing Your Driveshaft
I just put a little on the track while its retracted, then use spray silicone on the rubber seals (for help keeping water out and for when it gets really cold out) and onto the other small moving parts that I cant reach with the grease gun and my finger. You'll be able to see the old grease more than likely so its pretty easy to tell what may or may not need it.
4Runners.org - Lubing Your Driveshaft
I just put a little on the track while its retracted, then use spray silicone on the rubber seals (for help keeping water out and for when it gets really cold out) and onto the other small moving parts that I cant reach with the grease gun and my finger. You'll be able to see the old grease more than likely so its pretty easy to tell what may or may not need it.
