Steering Column U-Joint

[TechWrench]

The steering wheel is pointed to 1 o'clock on the clock face when it's driving straight so when the steering wheel is pointed at 12 it drifts to the left. So you suggest taking the shaft completely off the steering rack and adjusting it? I guess it would need to go one spline counter clockwise? Thanks again for yalls help

Yes, I would think moving the shaft one spline should fix the steering wheel alignment. Because you have just had the shaft replaced, it should be a lot easier to loosen and adjust the shaft on the power steering shaft splines. I had the same problem on my '03 V8 Limited. But in my case, the PO had the shaft replaced at a dealer, and they didn't get the spline alignment right. He decided to live with the steering wheel being a bit off. When I acquired it from him, it had been almost two years after the shaft had been replaced. So, instead of trying to adjust the shaft position, I just adjusted the outer tie rod ends to change the alignment of the wheels to match the steering wheel position. It only took about 1 and 1/2 turns on each tie rod to bring steering wheel back to 12 o'clock position. This being said, I would question the alignment shops suggestion that correcting the problem with an alignment would cause a problem with the steering rack. If your steering wheel was more than 90 degrees out, then I would agree with them, but only one spline should not cause any problems. It certainly didn't in my case. But, that is up to you.

 

[Collinrudy]

Alright so I slid the shaft back off the steering rack and adjusted it a spline (or maybe two it was hard to tell) counter clockwise and when driving down the road with the steering wheel completely straight it was still pulling to the left. Should I just keep adjusting the splines counter clockwise until it evens out? I find it hard to believe that I'd need to go 3 or 4 splines over to correct the steering but I'm no expert by any means lol

Maybe I'll have to pull the steering wheel off like Alexjet suggested. I'm not quite sure how to do that yet so that's why I did it the hard way lol

 

[TechWrench]

Alright so I slid the shaft back off the steering rack and adjusted it a spline (or maybe two it was hard to tell) counter clockwise and when driving down the road with the steering wheel completely straight it was still pulling to the left. Should I just keep adjusting the splines counter clockwise until it evens out? I find it hard to believe that I'd need to go 3 or 4 splines over to correct the steering but I'm no expert by any means lol

Maybe I'll have to pull the steering wheel off like Alexjet suggested. I'm not quite sure how to do that yet so that's why I did it the hard way lol

Not sure if removing the steering wheel and trying to move it is the way to go. Not sure, but I seem to recall that the splined shaft the steering wheel sits on is keyed so there is only one position for it to fit on.

I am starting to wonder about your description of 'pulling to the left' when you put the steering wheel in the centered position. I would avoid that option, if at all possible. There are too many things that can go wrong.

How much of a 'pull' are we talking about. A slight drift to the left, or a hard left turn? When you made the adjustment to the lower shaft on the splined shaft on the steering rack, was the amount of "pull to the left" any different at all? If you did in fact move the connection at least one or more teeth to the clockwise direction, I find it had to believe there was no change at all. I suspect that you may have not actually moved it at all. It can be difficult to make sure you actually rotate the connection to effect a change.

 

[Collinrudy]

Yeah I took a look around at moving the steering wheel and decided against messing with it.
As far as pulling to the left goes, when I'm going down a straight stretch of road and I center the steering wheel completely, the vehicle slightly turns to the left and would probably pull me into the ditch on the opposing side of the road within 50-75 feet going 45mph.
Also I drew a marker line on the shaft down to the little boot on the steering rack to make sure I didn't put the splines back on the same way, it's definitely moved one or two splines over
I'm thinking I might just go get it aligned and call it a day, I'm sure it will be fine. I tend to want everything done to spec and can get a little picky but it's all good. Thank y'all for yalls help and opinions!

 

[hinmo24t]

bringing this back up - i think i have to order that column-end with ujoint and replace it on my 2004...i have intermittent/somewhat consistent dead spots in my steering now. i assume that it is from rust on that ujoint...i have a pretty clean frame but a lot of brackets, ujoints, hardware is unfortunately rusty. my power fluid reservoir is full and i dont think its the pump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018IOLDNM/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2MMUV8GWMK2JF i think it is this one still on Amazon
and this bolt i have to get three (?) https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...RK9NRNAS2SB&psc=1&refRID=6EXA8964GRK9NRNAS2SB



also - anyone know what type of grease or degreaser to use on the ujoint to keep it going until i get this done, or if PB/WD40 will do that and help with loosening the hardware?

Thanks,
Tom

 

[lightfreak]

also - anyone know what type of grease or degreaser to use on the ujoint to keep it going until i get this done, or if PB/WD40 will do that and help with loosening the hardware?

Thanks,
Tom

PB Blaster or other penetrating lube to knock out rust build up, followed by a PTFE based lubricant like Super Lube. You can even shoot some driveshaft grease onto it for good measure. Should buy you enough time for the parts to come in.

 

[hinmo24t]

PB Blaster or other penetrating lube to knock out rust build up, followed by a PTFE based lubricant like Super Lube. You can even shoot some driveshaft grease onto it for good measure. Should buy you enough time for the parts to come in.

great - thank you.

i feel pretty confident with the parts i linked - i think i might have grabbed the link from in this thread. only reason i wouldnt mind confirmation is that there was a lot of canadian parts etc. discussed in here. i wouldnt mind knowing if the bolts (amazon $5 per bolt ) are correct - usually the 'bought together' recommendation on there is accurate though and i think i need three of them.

this is great for people with some rust and steering dead spots (just recently for me) because a lot of people think steering fluid flush and pump but this sounds like the culprit... $170 + $15 and a few hrs labor from my mechanic = about $400...i dont want to wrench on this one and try to match spline for straight steering wheel

edit: also, what would happen if this part broke before i replace it, while driving? will i be able to get to the side of a freeway?

 

[gshadow325]

pick up your phone and CALL a dealership and order the right parts.

all this internet research it going to end up getting you the wrong parts.

Maybe get out of the house and get some fresh air and VISIT a dealership's parts department. Perfect time to start building a re pore with your local parts department buddy.

or

get the part numbers from the dealership and order it online.

dont screw yourself over and "research it on google" then order the wrong stuff. its such a pain in the ass when its wrong stuff

 

[hinmo24t]

pick up your phone and CALL a dealership and order the right parts.

all this internet research it going to end up getting you the wrong parts.

Maybe get out of the house and get some fresh air and VISIT a dealership's parts department. Perfect time to start building a re pore with your local parts department buddy.

or

get the part numbers from the dealership and order it online.

dont screw yourself over and "research it on google" then order the wrong stuff. its such a pain in the ass when its wrong stuff

thanks. im competent enough to do some research, ask some questions, and make good decisions. had any of the above come back with limited results or the degree of the issue merits otherwise, id for sure call the dealership. thanks for the advice. i believe the links i posted are for the correct parts as of now too.

 

[TechWrench]

great - thank you.

i feel pretty confident with the parts i linked - i think i might have grabbed the link from in this thread. only reason i wouldnt mind confirmation is that there was a lot of canadian parts etc. discussed in here. i wouldnt mind knowing if the bolts (amazon $5 per bolt ) are correct - usually the 'bought together' recommendation on there is accurate though and i think i need three of them.

this is great for people with some rust and steering dead spots (just recently for me) because a lot of people think steering fluid flush and pump but this sounds like the culprit... $170 + $15 and a few hrs labor from my mechanic = about $400...i dont want to wrench on this one and try to match spline for straight steering wheel

edit: also, what would happen if this part broke before i replace it, while driving? will i be able to get to the side of a freeway?

Any penetrating spray will make it better, for a while, but replacing the lower shaft is the only permanent solution. Since this u-joint is so small, it doesn't have any method to lubricate the needle bearings other than by penetration. There is no way to add grease to this joint, and just wiping grease on the outside of it is virtually useless. As for your question about what happens if the joint completely fails, if the joint breaks, you will most likely loose the ability to steer the vehicle. Depending on how fast you are going at the time, it could get ugly real fast. Because of the way this joint works, it would most likely fail when under the most stress, which is during a turn. If it fails during a turn, you will probably be going slow, but if you can't steer to complete the turn, again it could get ugly. I suggest replacing it as soon as you can, just to be safe.

 

[hinmo24t]

Any penetrating spray will make it better, for a while, but replacing the lower shaft is the only permanent solution. Since this u-joint is so small, it doesn't have any method to lubricate the needle bearings other than by penetration. There is no way to add grease to this joint, and just wiping grease on the outside of it is virtually useless. As for your question about what happens if the joint completely fails, if the joint breaks, you will most likely loose the ability to steer the vehicle. Depending on how fast you are going at the time, it could get ugly real fast. Because of the way this joint works, it would most likely fail when under the most stress, which is during a turn. If it fails during a turn, you will probably be going slow, but if you can't steer to complete the turn, again it could get ugly. I suggest replacing it as soon as you can, just to be safe.

thanks - i was thinking that could be the case if it were to fail while driving...im going to take care of it within a few weeks hopefully. good info on the joint btw.

 

[lightfreak]

great - thank you.
only reason i wouldnt mind confirmation is that there was a lot of canadian parts etc. discussed in here. i wouldnt mind knowing if the bolts (amazon $5 per bolt ) are correct - usually the 'bought together' recommendation on there is accurate though and i think i need three of them.

I posted part numbers earlier in the thread.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2700617-post64.html

Same part numbers regardless of country. You can ask the seller on amazon to verify since they’re advertising as genuine Toyota parts.
You may need to do a cross reference lookup since there could be multiple numbers for the same part. Most Toyota parts website will display this info. Good luck

 

[hinmo24t]

We get hosed up here in Canada.

I did the repair recently and got the parts from toyotapartsdeal.com
Everything came out to $425 CAD including shipping and import duties/taxes.

45203-35310 Shaft assembly
45219-35160 sliding yoke
90119-08560 Bolt (you'll need 3 of these)

Got the parts in a few days.

sweet - i got the correct shaft assembly ($20 cheaper on amazon), bolts have diff part number on amazon but i think they are correct and i bought 3 ($15). i didnt know i needed the yoke assembly too...it isnt on amazon so ill get one off the site you mentioned. thanks.
edit: i bought the yoke from that site ($20), and 3 of the bolts w your part number ($1.5 each). will try and return the ones i got off amazon (bolts) or just give them to my mechanic just in case.
Thanks for your help^^

 

[WCHamby]

Sorry for reviving this, BUT I got all the parts and replaced mine yesterday. Ultimately fixed my steering, however a new problem arised and I have no idea how. The first time I drove it after replacing the assembly it kept flashing the traction control light as well as making a grinding noise. Also, it is stuck in 4 LO. I have no idea how. I’m really stumped and I’ve gone thru a number of troubleshooting options but no luck. I have a 03 V8 SR5

 

[lightfreak]

Sorry for reviving this, BUT I got all the parts and replaced mine yesterday. Ultimately fixed my steering, however a new problem arised and I have no idea how. The first time I drove it after replacing the assembly it kept flashing the traction control light as well as making a grinding noise. Also, it is stuck in 4 LO. I have no idea how. I’m really stumped and I’ve gone thru a number of troubleshooting options but no luck. I have a 03 V8 SR5

You need to do a zero point calibration to reset the steering angle sensor.
Lots of info and how-to on here , you can do it yourself in a few minutes.

 

[achen]

HI All,

I am having this steering wheel tightness lately the past 3 to 4 weeks. I tried using sea foam trans tune in the steering fluid system and t didn't free up the steering wheel. What is my next steps? The steering left and right are very stiff but not all the way throughout. What is the quickest and cheapest fix?

Thanks

 

[hinmo24t]

HI All,

I am having this steering wheel tightness lately the past 3 to 4 weeks. I tried using sea foam trans tune in the steering fluid system and t didn't free up the steering wheel. What is my next steps? The steering left and right are very stiff but not all the way throughout. What is the quickest and cheapest fix?

Thanks

its a safety concern so i would order the parts listed above. also, spray wd40 on it or some sort of lube
from wheelwell or engine bay to loosen it up for time being and confirm it is the issue if it feels better with that; while parts are on order etc.

i had a indi shop put those OEM parts in and it solved the issue.

i remeber amazon had aftermarket parts but i went with all oem, and the bolts etc. considering it is integral part of steering assembly, not to cheap out on.

 

[Hunter.Cribb]

Just out of curiosity should the intermediate shaft have a little play and be able to be jiggled up and down?

 

[rwh963]

i might be joining this club! 2007 w/220k miles. very recently been noticing a notchiness and sometimes a slippery feel (like hitting an ice patch). i'll get under the vehicle and take a look when it warms up. seems like an inevitable repair for higher mileage vehicles.

before looking, can i access the joint to shoot some penetrating fluid onto the joint without removing anything?

i'll look into the parts needed (shaft, bolts, yoke). i do some repairs, not sure i will do this one yet.

Parts: Yoke 45219-35160 $22
shaft 45203-35310 $195
bolts 90119-08560 (running into trouble, says it does not fit my vehicle)

 

[y=mx+b]

i might be joining this club! 2007 w/220k miles. very recently been noticing a notchiness and sometimes a slippery feel (like hitting an ice patch). i'll get under the vehicle and take a look when it warms up. seems like an inevitable repair for higher mileage vehicles.

before looking, can i access the joint to shoot some penetrating fluid onto the joint without removing anything?

i'll look into the parts needed (shaft, bolts, yoke). i do some repairs, not sure i will do this one yet.

Parts: Yoke 45219-35160 $22
shaft 45203-35310 $195
bolts 90119-08560 (running into trouble, says it does not fit my vehicle)

Mine got stiff after the of snow and salt we had, and I sprayed some white lithium grease up there. That took care of it for now, but eventually I'll replace mine too. Theres a thread on tacomaworld about replacing just the u-joint with a greaseable one, which was also an interesting concept.