Steering Rack Replaced - Highly Recommend This!

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BamaDrewski

New member
I have needed to put in a steering rack for over a year now. (2000 T4R Limited 4WD) I used as much Lucas Stop-Leak as I could. I shopped around. Dealer wanted $750 for a new rack with only a 12 month warranty. He also wanted another $350 for the labor and $60 for the alignment. (Total of $1,160) I found a place on the internet (Steering Rack and Steering Box at Wholesale Prices from Car Steering) and picked up a BRAND NEW rack for $345 and it has a 36 month, unlimited mileage warranty. Bought the new rack ($345) and new Japanese (CarQuest – Raybestos Brand – Made in JAPAN!) tie rod ends ($160 for both). The local tire shop quoted $250 to install and $60 for the alignment. Buying my own off the internet, total investment was $815. I can tell you this; it makes a world of difference! Steering is tight, tight, tight! Had a shimmy in the braking system before the new rack and now it is gone. The mechanic said the rack was excellent quality and an exact fit. I am glad I did not try replacing the rack on my own. Dealer ran into a frozen nut that connects the high pressure line from the steering pump. I would have been up-the-creek as it took them four hours to get it loose and that was while it was raised up on the lift. I don't think $250 is too much to spare the frustration of doing it yourself. PLUS - with a local tire shop/mechanic installing, you can prove it was done by professionals and there should not be any question about the warranty if there are issues. Also, make sure you flush the steering system before installing the new rack. Helps to prevent contaminating the new rack with metal shavings or junk in the old system.
 
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what type of vibration were you experiencing in your braking? just curious, i get the odd shimmy when braking going downhill , yet on flat road its not there, , all steering components are fine last i inspected it.
 
Every time I would brake (especially from higher speeds) the right front felt like the rim was wobbling. I thought it might be the rotors but I have the 199m Tundra brake caliper upgrade and I just had them turned. I also thought it might be a piston in the passenger side caliper but when I had the rotors off to be turned, I inspected them and they looked fine. So, after the new rack, all of the vibration was gone. The mechanic said it was probably the loose rack (after all it was 13 years old) and he also mentioned it was good I had replaced the tie rod ends. With a new rack, screwed on tight as a drum, it solved all of the braking vibration. Hope that helps!
 
Interested to see others opinion on this. Could it have been just your TRE needed replacing?i just the did the 231 upgrade on my 4 and still have a wobble, not as bad as before but it's still there.
 
just ordered from carsteering.com

Hi, I just ordered same for my new to me 98 limited.. like to know why you changed tie rod ends. Thanks for your positive info.

BamaDrewski said:
I have needed to put in a steering rack for over a year now. (2000 T4R Limited 4WD) I used as much Lucas Stop-Leak as I could. I shopped around. Dealer wanted $750 for a new rack with only a 12 month warranty. He also wanted another $350 for the labor and $60 for the alignment. (Total of $1,160) I found a place on the internet (Steering Rack and Steering Box at Wholesale Prices from Car Steering) and picked up a BRAND NEW rack for $345 and it has a 36 month, unlimited mileage warranty. Bought the new rack ($345) and new Japanese (CarQuest – Raybestos Brand – Made in JAPAN!) tie rod ends ($160 for both). The local tire shop quoted $250 to install and $60 for the alignment. Buying my own off the internet, total investment was $815. I can tell you this; it makes a world of difference! Steering is tight, tight, tight! Had a shimmy in the braking system before the new rack and now it is gone. The mechanic said the rack was excellent quality and an exact fit. I am glad I did not try replacing the rack on my own. Dealer ran into a frozen nut that connects the high pressure line from the steering pump. I would have been up-the-creek as it took them four hours to get it loose and that was while it was raised up on the lift. I don't think $250 is too much to spare the frustration of doing it yourself. PLUS - with a local tire shop/mechanic installing, you can prove it was done by professionals and there should not be any question about the warranty if there are issues. Also, make sure you flush the steering system before installing the new rack. Helps to prevent contaminating the new rack with metal shavings or junk in the old system.
Click to expand...
 
you need to check your tie rod ends to see if they are bad. The inner TRE's will probably be replaced wit the rack (many racks come with them). The outer TRE's you need to check for wear. Search for it here and you will find lots more information. It's all pretty easy.
 
tie rod ends

Nelsonmd said:
you need to check your tie rod ends to see if they are bad. The inner TRE's will probably be replaced wit the rack (many racks come with them). The outer TRE's you need to check for wear. Search for it here and you will find lots more information. It's all pretty easy.
Click to expand...

Thanks for explaining Nelson.
 
Does anyone have a link for a write up for replacing the steering rack? I have searched and searched and haven't been able to find anything but replacing bushing and the steering rack guide.
 
BCSHADOW: I changed my tie rod ends as the rig had over 200K. I thought it was a cheap ounce of preventative maintenance. As far as the rack goes, it's still perfect with absolutely no issues whatsoever. Also, I can't urge this enough: MAKE SURE TO FLUSH THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM BEFORE PUTTING ON YOUR NEW RACK!
 
BamaDrewski said:
Every time I would brake (especially from higher speeds) the right front felt like the rim was wobbling. I thought it might be the rotors but I have the 199m Tundra brake caliper upgrade and I just had them turned. I also thought it might be a piston in the passenger side caliper but when I had the rotors off to be turned, I inspected them and they looked fine. So, after the new rack, all of the vibration was gone. The mechanic said it was probably the loose rack (after all it was 13 years old) and he also mentioned it was good I had replaced the tie rod ends. With a new rack, screwed on tight as a drum, it solved all of the braking vibration. Hope that helps!
Click to expand...

ICD said:
Interested to see others opinion on this. Could it have been just your TRE needed replacing?i just the did the 231 upgrade on my 4 and still have a wobble, not as bad as before but it's still there.
Click to expand...

Very interested in this. I did the 231mm TBU last year, and still have steering wheel shake (was present before the upgrade). Tried two different sets of rotors - both new OEM - same result. Also had brand new OEM LBJs and inner/outer TREs installed, had no effect on the shaking.

BamaDrewski where are you located in Alabama? If I do this, would be good to have the same shop you used install it since you had a good experience. Also, did you have any shaking at higher speeds while not on the brakes?.
 
I live right outside of Montgomery, Alabama in central Alabama. The shop I used was Gipson's Tire Pro's in Prattville. They have a well equipped shop, clean and they are very professional and back up their work.
 
Be careful with those Raybestos inner tie rod ends. I put on the same (555 brand), and they seem to be loose already. I've heard people have issues with non-OE as they don't have as much travel in the joint. If the wheel goes to full droop hard, it can stretch them out. I believe that is what happened to me.
 
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