Steering Shimmy

yes, the marks represent the amount I turned. I used the largest adjustable wrench I could buy to loosen the outside nut, and had to buy a short nut and bolt to tighten the tensioner. I did it once and then took it for a drive. I had tightened it too much and the steering wheel wouldn't return to center if I turned it. Because the car was a pain to get on ramps and get back under ( I had it lowered ) I loosened it a bit and got used to the new feeling. The normally soft Lexus steering felt like a 5 series bimmer after all was said and done. I am going to do the bushings and see what that does and use the pretensioner as a last resort. Considering I just got the 4runner tuesday I should let myself get used to it a bit before I get in there and muck around with it.
BTW here's the thread on CLubLexus http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210644
 
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RMH,

Thanks for posting this info! After reading through those long threads at club lexus, it seems to be the fix I have been looking for. I plan to adjust it tomorrow. I looked under my Runner, and it does have the adjustment on the rack, so your '99 should have it too. Mine has an external hex instead of the internal shown in most of the pics I saw. That will be easier, since I'm sure I have tools to deal with that and won't have to find a bolt to turn it.

So far, I have done balancing, rotation, new rack bushings, new rotors and pads, and checked for worn steering and suspension parts. The shimmy is much improved, but not gone. The new bushings seemed to give the most noticeable improvement.

It
 
In the thread that I linked I think there was a guy with an older GS that had the hex head type and if I recall he was not able to adjust, or at least there were no results posted as to whether or not he was able to do the fix. I think it may take getting under there and see what happens. My adjustment was measured in 1/8 turns so start small and work your way up. I'm really interested to see if this helps. I was really sad to see the Lexus go but when I got my S4 (also gone) I was so relieved that I didn't have to worry about that issue any longer. When are they going to let the Europeans do suspension and the Japanese to the motor.
 
Yeah, I think I could tell there was a lock nut on there too when I looked under it this morning, so it should be adjustable. I'll let you know what I find.
 
Sorry I have not replied for a while. I did adjust my rack, and it helped a lot. It took a little more than 1/8 turn, and I did several test drives and slight adjustments until I found the sweet spot. Be careful, because as it was mentioned in other threads, it will tighten to the point that the steering wheel will not return fully to center on its own after a turn like we are used to.

I still get a shake sometimes beyond 65 or 70 mph. Next is a proper balance, making sure they use a Haweka adapter.
 
I have the same issue with my 99 sr5. I bought it with 110K and 35 super swampers. Thought it might be unballanced tires or that they have huge knobbs on them. It smooths out at 50 or so, but between 25-40 the wheel moves a lot. about 1-2 in total travel back and forth. It drives straight when i let go of the wheel. Guess Ill try the rack and when i get new tires that might help. Just curious if it was a one issue trouble maker for all of us instead of all these little things.
 
Just added a 2000 SR5 with 150k miles to my growing collection last week, and it also has this shimmy/vibration at 50mph and up. Noticed left front cv boot had a small tear and axle grease slung all over. Cleaned that up and plan to replce the boot, joint if nec. will report back if that helps. good thread fellas.
 
Ok.
I have had the same issue with my 97.Everytime it turns out to be the rotors(i tried new tires, rotors,brake job, alignment all the normal things) becoming out of round. I also had a road balance and i also had an alignment. Yes MY problem came back... the reason why is my runner is not a daily driver, Sometimes she will sit for a month at a time..... I was told that the rotors will come out of round BY NOT BEING USED.the part of the rotor thats exposed will not warp.. but the part of the rotor that has the pad on it might. so there you might get a shimmy..
Some of the small shops around here can only do a balance up to 40 mph. if i go to the dealer they told me that they can do one 55 + they have a special machine that the small shops dont have.
 
I seriously doubt that rotors warp when not driven. Id try a different mechanic.....

If your problem keeps coming back, that implies you are continually resolving the symptom of the problem, and not resolving the cause of the problem itself.
 
stinkypoop said:
Just added a 2000 SR5 with 150k miles to my growing collection last week, and it also has this shimmy/vibration at 50mph and up. Noticed left front cv boot had a small tear and axle grease slung all over. Cleaned that up and plan to replce the boot, joint if nec. will report back if that helps. good thread fellas.

Please do. I have the same issue at highway speeds and a good undercarriage inspection I did revealed a cv boot slinging grease on my passenger side. I couldn't find a tear though and the rings were nice and tight. . .
 
those tears tend to happen on a crease in the boot material and are very hard to see. if you have grease in the area, you have a tear. but it doesnt mean anything is damaged inside. need to check it out.
 
Ok thanks I cleaned a lot of the grease off and took a flashlight to look but obviously I need to look harder. Anything you would suggest to clean off ALL the grease without eating the boot?
 
I just use plain ol' engine degreaser. The boot is made of pretty substantial stuff, I doubt degreaser chemicals would harm it for the time they would cling to it. I give it 5-10 mins and hose off.
 
Stinky,
Well, i thought the same thing.... but after i had the rotors re surfaced the problem went away.BTW this is what i heard from the Dealer(which is the only place i go) basically it was the heating up and the cooling down of the rotors.. and then the truck sitting for a month at a time... Perhaps I DID get a bum tech that time... but he DID remedy THE PROBLEM.. After all the other work i had done- this is what fixed it.
 
giguchan - I got the impression your problem returns every so often, even after replacing the rotors?

Are you torqueing wheel lug nuts too tight? 85ft-lbs is the general figure for 3rd gen 4rnrs. too tight and Ive heard it helps warp rotors.
 

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