Steering Wheel Vibration? THE solution to the problem!

Discount used a machine that does roadforce, but i'd be SHOCKED if they actually roadforced them for $9/each. They normally charge $25/each because of the extra labor involved.

Lol do you need me to post the receipt?

They absolutely did it for $9, they matched big o's price that i was quoted
 
Roadforce balancing is a total waste of money if you can find someone that knows how actually use a spin balancer.
 
Does anyone on here actually know what roadforce balance really is? Adding road force to a balance is simply an inspection of the tire integrity. This does not actually balance the tire any better. It only points out any problems with the wheel or tire assembly. Forcematching the wheel/tire assembly will allow for the assembly to use less weight to balance up. I believe that a lot of people confuse road force balancing to be forcematching. It's simply isn't true however as forcematching requires breaking down the tire and wheel.
 
Does anyone on here actually know what roadforce balance really is? Adding road force to a balance is simply an inspection of the tire integrity. This does not actually balance the tire any better. It only points out any problems with the wheel or tire assembly. Forcematching the wheel/tire assembly will allow for the assembly to use less weight to balance up. I believe that a lot of people confuse road force balancing to be forcematching. It's simply isn't true however as forcematching requires breaking down the tire and wheel.

Yes, I do. As was said above too, probably a waste of money unless they "force match" the tire/wheel or you can get a tire warranteed because of an excessively high number. At least the road force balance can tell you if you have a high number.
 
I've replaced lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and still have the shake. Any ideas? I need to go get a balance and alignment but I really don't believe that's the issue. When I got new tires it still had the shake.
 
Same issue with my new wheels and tires (trd wheels, 285/70 BFG KO2s). They were way out of balance and shook the vehicle at highway speed. Went to another shop and got them road forced balance for $25/each and the difference was astronomical. Rides on the highway smooth as butter. Consider me a fan.

My understanding of the difference is the machine spins the tire under 1200lbs of pressure to simulate the weight of the vehicle being on it. Doing this they also identified that one of the front tires was "less good" than the back tires, so they moved that front tire to the back.

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Same issue with my new wheels and tires (trd wheels, 285/70 BFG KO2s). They were way out of balance and shook the vehicle at highway speed. Went to another shop and got them road forced balance for $25/each and the difference was astronomical. Rides on the highway smooth as butter. Consider me a fan.

My understanding of the difference is the machine spins the tire under 1200lbs of pressure to simulate the weight of the vehicle being on it. Doing this they also identified that one of the front tires was "less good" than the back tires, so they moved that front tire to the back.

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The KO2 have been a fairly good tire for the most part, but I have noticed that some of them are showing excessive roadforce (possibility indicating an out of round tire). We've been putting a lot of them on our new Tacoma/4Runner/Tundras and every now and then we get one out of a set that's just hoopajooped.

Something to note, while rotating the "less good" tire to the rear works for now. There's a chance it may not "wear in" well, so when you do a rotation it may cause a minor balance issue. Just something to keep in mind if you get a tire rotation done and suddenly the steering wheel has a slight wobble. :)
 
The KO2 have been a fairly good tire for the most part, but I have noticed that some of them are showing excessive roadforce (possibility indicating an out of round tire). We've been putting a lot of them on our new Tacoma/4Runner/Tundras and every now and then we get one out of a set that's just hoopajooped.

Something to note, while rotating the "less good" tire to the rear works for now. There's a chance it may not "wear in" well, so when you do a rotation it may cause a minor balance issue. Just something to keep in mind if you get a tire rotation done and suddenly the steering wheel has a slight wobble. :)
Could a case be made with BFG that hoopajooped tires are defective and need to be replaced?

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Isn't part of the issue of improper balancing have something to do with the haweka adapter? I'm having that problem with my 06 4runner and we have the latest hunter machine in my shop. I'm also running enkei 20 sitting on 275/55. I've roadforced and balanced (with the cones) multiple times and I still have a terrible shake around 65, I'm getting desperate and about to bite the bullet and go to another shop that has that adapter hopefully to fix it.
 
Isn't part of the issue of improper balancing have something to do with the haweka adapter? I'm having that problem with my 06 4runner and we have the latest hunter machine in my shop. I'm also running enkei 20 sitting on 275/55. I've roadforced and balanced (with the cones) multiple times and I still have a terrible shake around 65, I'm getting desperate and about to bite the bullet and go to another shop that has that adapter hopefully to fix it.
Yes. The adapter must be used. Toyota wheels are lug centric. Not hub centric. Hub centric wheels can be balanced with cone mount, but our toyota wheels being lug centric requires the haweka adapter to attach the wheel via lugs to the machine.

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I've replaced lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and still have the shake. Any ideas? I need to go get a balance and alignment but I really don't believe that's the issue. When I got new tires it still had the shake.
I was having the same problem, new tires and wheels, roadforce balanced numerous times and spin balanced at the dealership. Still had a wobble at 60-70. Turned out to be the angle on my CV joints. I have a mild lift and they were right on that borderline of needing a diff drop or being ok. Unfortunately, I chose to risk it and lost. I replaced both CV axels (was a few bux more than a rebuild) and put in a Toy-Tec diff drop. No more wobble. Might not fit your scenario, but worth taking a look at if you have a lift and no diff drop.
 

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