XxTiBEARiusxX
New member
FYI, I updated my initial post! Can someone tell me how to change the name of the thread?
Stuck lbj and bolt
- Thread starter XxTiBEARiusxX
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JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
I think a mod has to do change the title.
What I've done with broken bolts is drill out the bolt. Of course with that broken screw extractor in there, that might be a major problem as they are hardened and pretty much impossible to drill through. But if it weren't in there I would remove the knuckle, which is somewhat easy with one of those front end sets and ball joints sets for rental at any auto parts store. Then get a new set of cobalt drill bits and starting with a small bit on the end of the bolt that you can get in the center, start drilling through it. Really try to stay in the center, as the first hole is crucial. After that, just move to a larger bit,(may have to go use 2 or 3 more bits) until you get to the closest size without drilling out the threads on the knuckle. Then break out some MAPP gas and get that sucker hot and put in the largest screw extractor bit that will fit (the big the better so it will hold up to some torque) May have to go through several heat cycles. I've removed many broken bolts using this method. Being in NJ, the rust that sets in and can make a simple repair a pain in the ass. I learned that "feeling" that a bolt is not coming out. I've also learned that an impact can help remove some bolts that might break with a ratchet. Also, heating and cleaning up the threads is necessary to remove stubborn bolts.
RUST SUCKS!!!!
What I've done with broken bolts is drill out the bolt. Of course with that broken screw extractor in there, that might be a major problem as they are hardened and pretty much impossible to drill through. But if it weren't in there I would remove the knuckle, which is somewhat easy with one of those front end sets and ball joints sets for rental at any auto parts store. Then get a new set of cobalt drill bits and starting with a small bit on the end of the bolt that you can get in the center, start drilling through it. Really try to stay in the center, as the first hole is crucial. After that, just move to a larger bit,(may have to go use 2 or 3 more bits) until you get to the closest size without drilling out the threads on the knuckle. Then break out some MAPP gas and get that sucker hot and put in the largest screw extractor bit that will fit (the big the better so it will hold up to some torque) May have to go through several heat cycles. I've removed many broken bolts using this method. Being in NJ, the rust that sets in and can make a simple repair a pain in the ass. I learned that "feeling" that a bolt is not coming out. I've also learned that an impact can help remove some bolts that might break with a ratchet. Also, heating and cleaning up the threads is necessary to remove stubborn bolts.
RUST SUCKS!!!!
XxTiBEARiusxX
New member
I wish I had a pneumatic impact gun, but I dont. It would take me while to get pneumatic power tools but it will be a while because I want to get a legit setup (can't have a legit setup at an apartment complex...). My impact gun is one of those milwakee battery operated ones that suck.
I used to be really good at this kind of thing but I owned new cars for 2 years and got a little rusty at dealing with things like this (pun intended). I feel better about the fact that the dealership couldn't get it either (unless they did and are just saying they didnt so they could charge me more for time spent...?? Who knows...)
I hate apartments too. Can't really get into the work without pissing off the property manager and residents.
That being said, I would put everything back together, put the truck back on the ground and I buy a used spindle/lower control arms and change them out. Doesn't surprise me stealership wanted $300 to do the bolt. Your paying for their time and expertise.
I would take that $300 to change out the affected parts. But then again, that's how I personally would approach this working out of an less than ideal garage. Wishing you a speedy repair.
That being said, I would put everything back together, put the truck back on the ground and I buy a used spindle/lower control arms and change them out. Doesn't surprise me stealership wanted $300 to do the bolt. Your paying for their time and expertise.
I would take that $300 to change out the affected parts. But then again, that's how I personally would approach this working out of an less than ideal garage. Wishing you a speedy repair.
jack.hanks02
New member
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Just finished replacing lower ball joints on my 2001 with 239,000 miles. Previous owner must have parked this thing in a pond every night, because, despite being a New Mexico truck its got plenty of rust. Out of the 8 total 14mm bolts holding the lower ball joints to the steering knuckles three came out clean, four broke off in the knuckle, and one I rounded the head off of. I started drilling out the broken bolts, but finally decided to just check the local UPullandPay. Got one spindle from a 98 4runner and another from a 98 Tacoma for $26 each. The bearings in the Tacoma knuckle were shot, so I spent another $150 or so on a bearing, oil seals, and cir clip for that one. Also bout two reboot kits for the upper ball joints, since both were torn. For just over $200, plus the cost of the LBJs, which I'd already spent, I got everything back up and running and I didn't have to drill out any bolts. Worth it to me because I really hate drilling out bolts!
jack.hanks02
New member
I'm in the same boat except I've only got one bolt that sheared off in the knuckle. I'm hoping once I get everything else loose that I can somehow get the ****er out.
I've only ever drilled and tapped one thing before and it sucked ass.
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spartacus
Senior Member
Use a left hand drill and it may rotate the broken bolt out.
