Swapping stock tires - What do you recommend? (I know I know "search is your friend")

[bzizzi]

Don't underestimate the Michelin LTX MS 2, they might not look like much but they are an amazing tire !! Quiet, smooth, incredible hydroplane resistance, great in snow and ice, they have slits in tread that open up like an ice tire when they begin to spin !! I had them on my last 4R, you should get 70K out of them easily, if you take care of them !!Look at the reviews and survey on the Tire Rack.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...toMake=Toyota&autoYear=2011&autoModel=4Runner V6&autoModClar=SR5

 

[DEKA3]

Do they look as tame in real life as they do in the pics? I would like to have a more aggressive looking tire this time around. That is the one and only reason why I haven't jumped on them already.

Don't underestimate the Michelin LTX MS 2, they might not look like much but they are an amazing tire !! Quiet, smooth, incredible hydroplane resistance, great in snow and ice, they have slits in tread that open up like an ice tire when they begin to spin !! I had them on my last 4R, you should get 70K out of them easily, if you take care of them !!Look at the reviews and survey on the Tire Rack.

Michelin LTX M/S2 V6&autoModClar=SR5

 

[proquip]

Toyo's

Do they look as tame in real life as they do in the pics? I would like to have a more aggressive looking tire this time around. That is the one and only reason why I haven't jumped on them already.

I was initially leaning towards the LTX M/S2 but decided they were a bit too tame. I was interested in the 285's and the Michelin is an LT-rated tire in that size, and I had decided that I wanted to stick to a P-rated tire.

Like someone above recommended, I have the Toyo Open Country A/Ts (P-metric - 285/70R17's) and I'm very pleased with the tire. It's a bit more aggressive looking than the Michelin. It's smooth and quiet on the road. I read a lot of good reviews on the tires, so I pulled the trigger and I'm very happy with them.

Just my 2 cents!

 

[GMo]

So the SR5 can run a 285/70/17 w/o modification or lift?

 

[KCcarguy]

So the SR5 can run a 285/70/17 w/o modification or lift?

No. 275/70 is max you can run without rubbing.

 

[GMo]

No. 275/70 is max you can run without rubbing.

I just picked up my SR5 and would love to get a more aggressive (and better in the snow) tire for it. Ideally a little wider/taller with a good aggressive tread. What's the best way to go? I was thinking of just swapping out and using the stock wheels for now. Don't really want to do a lift on it yet. Worth it? Can I put a tire on with the stock suspension that'll do that?

 

[Jtraskell]

I just picked up my SR5 and would love to get a more aggressive (and better in the snow) tire for it. Ideally a little wider/taller with a good aggressive tread. What's the best way to go? I was thinking of just swapping out and using the stock wheels for now. Don't really want to do a lift on it yet. Worth it? Can I put a tire on with the stock suspension that'll do that?

Not to get into a shouting match here, but yes, depending, you might be able to fit 285/70r17 on your rig without a lift, depending on the caster of your front wheels and the type of tire you are buying. Let me explain.

I have 285's on my rig for about a year. NO rubbing. But, my steering was really "flakey". This was the same with the OEM Dunlap's as well as the Michelin LTX M/X2 285/70/17 Load Range D that I bought. Much better ride and handling etc. with the Michelin's but still that steering. Well, due to the many benefits of using this forum, I found out that my "Caster" was probably set too far back, I guess the term is negative caster, and I needed to have it reset to a positive caster of about 4.0. (Mine was 2.5 on the left and 2.3 on the right). After that, my steering was much, much better. I had enough resistance in the steering wheel so I could actually steer the vehicle like a normal car. However, then, and only then, did my tires rub the plastic inner wheel well fender every so slightly when I made a hard left or right hand turn, but only in reverse!

I discovered that by loosening a couple of key screws on the bottom of those inner fenders, and pushing the fenders forward just a little bit, then re-tightening the screws while holding the fenders forward, they were adjusted foreword 1/4 of and inch or so, which is all I needed to stop the rubbing.

Now, notwithstanding my fix, if you move your caster (if needed) or you buy some other tire with lets say more aggressive tread etc. etc. yours might not fit at all without rubbing. In that case, "Spacers" placed on top of the OEM shocks may be all you need to cure that problem. It will lift the rake of your vehicle say 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch, but it is not a true "lift" and relatively inexpensive. In any case, any good tire dealer would be happy to put a tire on to see if will work without charging you if you are a serious buyer. My suggestion, put that tire on the drivers side, not the passenger. It seem the inner wheel well fender is slightly different between the sides and the driver side has a little bit LESS room..... Good luck and be safe.

 

[GMo]

Not to get into a shouting match here, but yes, depending, you might be able to fit 285/70r17 on your rig without a lift, depending on the caster of your front wheels and the type of tire you are buying. Let me explain.

I have 285's on my rig for about a year. NO rubbing. But, my steering was really "flakey". This was the same with the OEM Dunlap's as well as the Michelin LTX M/X2 285/70/17 Load Range D that I bought. Much better ride and handling etc. with the Michelin's but still that steering. Well, due to the many benefits of using this forum, I found out that my "Caster" was probably set too far back, I guess the term is negative caster, and I needed to have it reset to a positive caster of about 4.0. (Mine was 2.5 on the left and 2.3 on the right). After that, my steering was much, much better. I had enough resistance in the steering wheel so I could actually steer the vehicle like a normal car. However, then, and only then, did my tires rub the plastic inner wheel well fender every so slightly when I made a hard left or right hand turn, but only in reverse!

I discovered that by loosening a couple of key screws on the bottom of those inner fenders, and pushing the fenders forward just a little bit, then re-tightening the screws while holding the fenders forward, they were adjusted foreword 1/4 of and inch or so, which is all I needed to stop the rubbing.

Now, notwithstanding my fix, if you move your caster (if needed) or you buy some other tire with lets say more aggressive tread etc. etc. yours might not fit at all without rubbing. In that case, "Spacers" placed on top of the OEM shocks may be all you need to cure that problem. It will lift the rake of your vehicle say 1/2 or 3/4 of an inch, but it is not a true "lift" and relatively inexpensive. In any case, any good tire dealer would be happy to put a tire on to see if will work without charging you if you are a serious buyer. My suggestion, put that tire on the drivers side, not the passenger. It seem the inner wheel well fender is slightly different between the sides and the driver side has a little bit LESS room..... Good luck and be safe.

Right on. Thanks for the info. Personally, I'd love a little lift, but I'm not sure if I'm willing to sacrifice MPG for it.

 

[BONASABOB]

On my 2011 Trail I replaced the OE Bridgestone HT with Revo2($545 plus my take-off tires) . Only 250 miles on the truck so far but will leave next month for my annual 4 month hunting trip in the Nebraska Sand Hills. 1200 miles highway to get there, then 90% off pavement/off road. On return, garaged til next August except when transporting my dogs. Will give full report when I return ....about 3000 miles round trip ighway/interstate, all the rest will be off road mostly in 4wd in steep,rough,sandy country after prairie chickens,mule deer and prairie dogs. The Trail is not my DD but I live where winter is snowy and the above yearly trip will produce a pretty good test of both vehicle and tires.