Switch Pro help

K9 HAULR

New member
Let me start by saying electrical work is far outside my area of comfort...but I manage to figure things out with a little guidance.

Trying to get my switch pro installed, and am unsure about how to hook up the 2 wires to light/power the control panel. The instructions say the yellow wire provides the light and should be spliced into an appropriate circuit and the blue wire should be tied to an ignition hot circuit.

Any suggestions for the yellow wire? I think the blue wire could be hooked up with a fuse tap into either 22 (Fog Lamps - I replaced mine with Baja LED's and have some amps to spare there) or 27 (trailer backup - I have no intentions of running a trailer). What does the consensus, or those that have done this say?

All help appreciated.
 
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Let me start by saying electrical work is far outside my area of comfort...but I manage to figure things out with a little guidance.

Trying to get my switch pro installed, and am unsure about how to hook up the 2 wires to light/power the control panel. The instructions say the yellow wire provides the light and should be spliced into an appropriate circuit and the blue wire should be tied to an ignition hot circuit.

Any suggestions for the yellow wire? I think the blue wire could be hooked up with a fuse tap into either 22 (Fog Lamps - I replaced mine with Baja LED's and have some amps to spare there) or 27 (trailer backup - I have no intentions of running a trailer). What does the consensus, or those that have done this say?

All help appreciated.

Luis @toy.tun on ig and I knocked it out together. Shoot him a message, one of those wires, i think the yellow, we tapped into one of the wires running to the headlight housing. I just forget which one.
 
Do you have a wiring diagram you can reference for us?

Unfortunately, no. There is a pictorial and text reference to a Jeep JK with the instructions provided. I have tried to send a message to the company that sold the unit to me (Off-Grid), and not got ANY response. I also needed their help, as there is also an option to control the Blue Sea ML-ACR they included in the kit I purchased...but I have no idea what it does - just a wire coming off it labeled "to switch-pro." I also sent a message directly to Switch Pro - no response yet.

The ref for the yellow wire is to connect to the wire for parking or marker lights. The blue wire I'm referring to is supposed to connected to something "Ignition/ACC controlled"

Thanks for trying...
 
Unfortunately, no. There is a pictorial and text reference to a Jeep JK with the instructions provided. I have tried to send a message to the company that sold the unit to me (Off-Grid), and not got ANY response. I also needed their help, as there is also an option to control the Blue Sea ML-ACR they included in the kit I purchased...but I have no idea what it does - just a wire coming off it labeled "to switch-pro." I also sent a message directly to Switch Pro - no response yet.

The ref for the yellow wire is to connect to the wire for parking or marker lights. The blue wire I'm referring to is supposed to connected to something "Ignition/ACC controlled"

Thanks for trying...

let me run out to my truck real quick and check that blue wire
 
The blue I have it going into the inj fuse slot. The yellow I don't have it going anywhere. I still get light.
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Let me start by saying electrical work is far outside my area of comfort...but I manage to figure things out with a little guidance.

Trying to get my switch pro installed, and am unsure about how to hook up the 2 wires to light/power the control panel. The instructions say the yellow wire provides the light and should be spliced into an appropriate circuit and the blue wire should be tied to an ignition hot circuit.

Any suggestions for the yellow wire? I think the blue wire could be hooked up with a fuse tap into either 22 (Fog Lamps - I replaced mine with Baja LED's and have some amps to spare there) or 27 (trailer backup - I have no intentions of running a trailer). What does the consensus, or those that have done this say?

All help appreciated.

Good morning! It looks like you may have had all your questions answered already but just in case this is the video I used as a guide for my Switchpros install.

Yellow wire install is shown starting at 3:45 and blue is at 5:39. This has worked really well for me and is an easy install. I like using the in-cab fuse box too for the blue wire since it's tucked up underneath the steering column and you won't see wires just hanging around. As per the yellow wire, the side market light wire is what the video shows and what I did. It's a green wire you can use a T-tap on right next to the battery. Hope this helps!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njCsIKDpkA8
 
Sounds like you're on your way but wanted to crossover one thing I noticed in your initial post. Regarding "spare amps", the blue wire to the switch panel is going to draw minimal amps, they don't specify how many but they should so that you can determine the appropriate fuse and wire combination for the length of your circuit. My point is that this should not be drawing a significant load so it should not necessarily matter what you tap into, it just needs to sense a change in potential. It could be powering the switch panel LED's, but this would still represent a very small load. Same goes for the yellow wire.

Power for the actual accessories is being pulled directly from the battery to the power module, the switch panel is essentially activating a relay-type mechanism in the power module, activating the individual circuits (no high-current cables going into the dash).


Not sure if you needed all that, but from the first post I thought I'd try to clarify things. If I got that wrong someone please correct me. Good luck with the install.
 
will watch that video later

Think i'm more comfortable tapping into fuses inside by the knee area, then messing with the fusebox in the engine bay. Not sure it makes much difference. Do a lot of people tap ACC power from the engine bay box?
 
Thanks everyone! That clarifies everything greatly.

Quick question: are all spots on a fuse panel "hot" - even if the truck wasn't designed to have the feature tied to that slot (and hence no fuse there)? Just thinking about locations for the fuse taps.
 
Thanks everyone! That clarifies everything greatly.

Quick question: are all spots on a fuse panel "hot" - even if the truck wasn't designed to have the feature tied to that slot (and hence no fuse there)? Just thinking about locations for the fuse taps.

I wouldn't trust anybody's answer to this (because it's a safety hazard). Only way to know for sure is to test it with a voltmeter.
 
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